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0| honda411
rrKey Veteran Surprise, AZ USA |
Ys96srx Tareq help Hello guys, I know this should probably be in the engines section but for now I need quick eyes on this situation.
I have a ys96srx tareq engine that has idle problems up the whazoo. I notice air bubbles in the clear tubing going from the regulator to the carb. Extremely inconsistent idle. It won’t even idle unless I keep throttle applied. Tried rich, tried lean and it runs high and low. It smokes a lot when it does actually run. Smoke appears consistent and great on mid and high needles except performing tic tocs it runs lean and virtually no smoke but once in governors okay. I did a lot of high speed continuous circles to heat it up and looks okay and sounds okay. I watched Tim’s tuning videos and seems like it’s tuned mid and high needles decently. It sometimes surges on idle, sounds like a solid idle in terms of very lean and also sometimes pings. I know this is very lean but when I richen it, it immediately dies. Currently 1/2-3/4 out on idle. About 1.75 on each mid and high roughly but can’t fully tune due to idle. -Ys96srx -Current OS8 plug (blew the enya 3) picture provided -cool power 30%I am ordering a new diaphragm, o-rings, fuel tubing, plugs, check valve and all other related parts to the regulator.Again bubbles in the clear tubing from regulator and carb at idle. Only way it stays running is enough throttle that blades try to turn. These photos are from the enya 3 that was in it. The coil is charcoal color like the edge is, pushed to one side of the plug also.   |
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 Dave's Raptor
rrApprentice Utah, USA |
YS96SRX Hey Chris, check out this thread https://rc.runryder.com/t819993p2/ post 22, and then post 23. The link on post 23 if you read down you will see a similar issue as stated in post 22. Looks like they used silicone over the idle set screw and it resolved the air bubble issue. Hopefully this helps you out with your troubleshooting.Dave |
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| honda411
rrKey Veteran Surprise, AZ USA |
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 Rojoalfa
rrKey Veteran Punta de Mata, Monagas-Venezuela |
/Don't mess with this little setting screw till you know for sure that this is the problem.Regulator is a high pressure and close system. If you see bubbles, it come from tank./ |
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| honda411
rrKey Veteran Surprise, AZ USA |
You can’t even get any parts for these engines either. Everyone is out of stock of diaphragm and gaskets. |
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 crflyer
rrApprentice Maine |
In most cases the problem is a fuel line leak or a sticking check valve. Flush the check valve with some fuel or replace it, try to blow through it to see if its working. And replace all fuel lines, replace the clunk line in the tank also. Don't mess with the regulator settings. It sounds like the check valve is acting up giving you the lean runs, also a bad check valve will make the engine shut down when you try to throttle it up. |
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| Rojoalfa
rrKey Veteran Punta de Mata, Monagas-Venezuela |
/Ok... I understand your point.Let assume we have a faulty screw that for some reason is letting pass air thru the regulator. A regulator handle high pressure coming from tank and feed in with a constant pressure our Carburator.So, you are telling us that the atmospheric "air" have more pressure than the glow passing thru the regulator? If this was the case, your YS would be bleeding glow directly from the regulator. It doesn't make sense my friend.Sorry my English.That bubbles you see in that tiny tube is cause by pressure drop... It is call a vaccum pressure. That vacuum pressure let the methanol vaporize... So, you see bubbles... Bubbles of methanol and not air!!!Well, I know this is a very boring and a technical matter but you have two choices to solve the issue...1. Close the needles to build up the intake preasure of carb.2. Open regulator to feed more pressure to the carb. You need to readjust needles after messing with the regulator.Both solution prevent methanol to vaporize.I will do the second choice..but...be Careful. Open the regulator mean more high pressure glow passing to the carb and need a complete readjusting needles. It would be better do this on a bench.Remember... Regulator give pressure. Needles give Flux.YS engine is going to take what it needs... The rest is going to be on the fan shroud./ |
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| honda411
rrKey Veteran Surprise, AZ USA |
Are you readjusting the screw that is covered under silicone on the regulator? The flat head screw?A new problem exists now, that if I don’t release the tank pressure right away, it slowly floods the carb and dumps fuel out of the carb inlet |
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| crflyer
rrApprentice Maine |
If fuel is leaking by the regulator and out the carb when the heli is sitting, you should think about replacing the entire regulator. The second pic shows the regulator leaver, if this an older engine its probably worn down and leaking by the leaver seal. And if you do install a new diaphragm make sure its installed correctly, I've seen these diaphragms put in upside-down.    |
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| Rojoalfa
rrKey Veteran Punta de Mata, Monagas-Venezuela |
/This regulator is triggered by the spinning action of the crankshaft. This back pressure is send to the regulator, opening and feeding the carb.If the regulator is flooding the carb with glow, It means the screw is out of calibration or the diaphragm is broken, communicating both constant and high pressure system with crankshaft.A great mess by the way...PDDirty, moisture could also cause such a mess. Clean the area, take pics and share with us your observation./ |
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| honda411
rrKey Veteran Surprise, AZ USA |
The barrel of the carb is open quite a bit. So it acts like it’s not open enough and shuts off randomly but immediately. If I raised the trim maybe a click or two the idle is so high that the blades want to spin pretty good. And if it actually does get flying, when I come in to land, the engine is running at a smooth constant lean and not even pinging anymore. Rojo, thank you for also sticking in here with me on this. I will tear it down tomorrow and take pictures of all internals and of the outside of the regulator. But this engine is near useless at this point since not all parts are available to complete the entire rebuild. |
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| Rojoalfa
rrKey Veteran Punta de Mata, Monagas-Venezuela |
/There are places to get spare parts...Also, if you have a 61G Carburator from OS, you can get rid of this regulator.Check this adaptor flange...https://rc-carbonstore.com/OS-61-Ca...-120-Conversion/ |
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| Rojoalfa
rrKey Veteran Punta de Mata, Monagas-Venezuela |
/Let assume for a moment that your regulator is OK and it was out of calibration.Let assume that we finally calibrate this little monster. All the internal parts are clean.Back on the original problem, motor has the same problem with the idle.This problem in most of the cases is related to :1. Bad Front bearing (loosing pressure).2. Crankcase back plate with bad seal or loose.3. Fitting on crankcase loose./ |
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| honda411
rrKey Veteran Surprise, AZ USA |
The scratch on the back of the regulator body does not appear to be all the way through and only superficial. I did patch this also since I cannot find anywhere that has the body in stock. The rear bearing I believe needs replacing also since I can see the crank spin just a small amount without the inner race of the bearing spinning. What a nightmare!            |
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| crflyer
rrApprentice Maine |
YS Engines require a leak free fuel system, if the fuel tank has been patched it needs to be replaced, I've never seen a repaired fuel tank last very long. The regulator is probably fine, flush it with fuel to be sure. Replace the check valve before you run it again and be sure there are NO leaks in the fuel system. I've had check valves last several gallons of fuel and some fail after just one gallon. Inside the check valve is a small silicon disk, it can swell up and then hang up not pressurizing the fuel tank correctly, it may act fine while bench testing ,but wont be up to the task when in full flight If the carb needles are set correctly but you get on and off lean runs in flight its usually a fuel line leak or a check valve failure. |
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| honda411
rrKey Veteran Surprise, AZ USA |
Could there maybe be blow by from the broken piston and causing air or pressure in the regulator? High needle 2 1/8th , mid range 2.25 and low is 1 turn |
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| crflyer
rrApprentice Maine |
Thus the lean runs. You need to start over, rebuild the engine with new piston, ring and sleeve. Replace the fuel lines and check valve. reset the needles and do a proper break-in of the engine. When setup correctly YS engines run great. |
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| honda411
rrKey Veteran Surprise, AZ USA |
Btw, is there an upgraded rear bearing for this engine? |
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| Rojoalfa
rrKey Veteran Punta de Mata, Monagas-Venezuela |
honda411 The engine never appeared lean when I first started flying it and then the random lean mixture. Makes me wonder if something causing the lean mixtures ended up ruining other components inside. /Yes. The failure was a component between intake pressure and mixture setpoint.IMHO, two thing could happen: (assuming no front bearing leaking...)1. low pressure intake and a lean mixture.(high needle)2. High pressure intake and a lean mixture.(high needle)The problem was a setting with a lean mixture that went terrible bad.Front bearing... I suspect of this guy... It is probably leaking.Can you do a test?... We need to pressurize crankcase to see for leaking... With 120 mmHg. Also, the outside of the front bearing could be oily or dusty.As you can see... With a failure on the front bearing, a different history we may have.The other history is... Regulator was OK, mixture was ok but because of the faulty front bearing, motor suck more air, making the mixture lean.Mixture lean... Your YS was working hotter and hotter./ |
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| honda411
rrKey Veteran Surprise, AZ USA |
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