ROBAN 412 800size BUILD THREAD

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Home › Scale › ✈️Aircraft › Scale Heli › Roban Scale Helicopters › ROBAN 412 800size BUILD THREAD

04-01-2020 03:54 AM 11 months ago

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droneproz

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ROBAN 412 800size BUILD THREAD

Hello guys I will be building a Roban 412 800 size and wanted to share my experience with it. This will be my first Roban and really looking forward to it, I ordered the helicopter from Motion Rc 4 day ago and was glad to see everything arrive in one piece.

SETUP
MOTOR Egodrift 4035 460KV motor
ESC Hobbywing 130a platinum OPTO
IKON 2 FBL
CYCLIC SERVO HBL550
RUDDER SERVO HBL980

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04-01-2020 05:12 AM 11 months ago

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Heli143

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Looking forward to your build!

Which 412 scheme did you get?Roy Mayoral

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04-01-2020 05:16 AM 11 months ago

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droneproz

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LA FIRE. I'm new on here and am wondering if the photos I posted can be seen. is there any way to add notes on the photos? like to show a step??

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04-01-2020 05:17 AM 11 months ago

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Heli143

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Don't see any photos.

Only way I know is to post the pics before or after a comment.
I'm sure someone here must know a better way.Roy Mayoral

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04-01-2020 01:07 PM 11 months ago

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lt1pwr

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Welcome to RR!

This should help posting photos:

https://rc.runryder.com/help-faq/Ph...in_a_Post_or_PM

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04-05-2020 03:46 AM 11 months ago

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206 pilot

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Longisland, have a drink fly a kite. Ben franklin

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Hi good luck with the build double check all the wood construction anywhere u think needs glue blast it, you can see mine in my gallery.. Rich

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04-07-2020 07:56 PM 10 months ago

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droneproz

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Look like I got the pictures to work finally hahaha.

Very happy to see the Heli well packed and arrived with zero damage. One of the first steps is to mount to the skids. This can be done very easily using painters tape to mark center on both the body and the skids then simply line up the marks. Make sure you measure twice before drilling to make sure you are lined up.

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04-07-2020 08:08 PM 10 months ago

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v22chap

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whoops ,, there they are !!!!Must have just caught it in the loading process . Looks great ,, love the bird !!!! Good luck on it and have fun

Larry C ----------Bergen R/C helicopters

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04-07-2020 08:14 PM 10 months ago

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droneproz

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v22chap whoops ,, there they are !!!!Must have just caught it in the loading process . Looks great ,, love the bird !!!! Good luck on it and have fun

thxx much

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04-07-2020 08:43 PM 10 months ago

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droneproz

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Now it is time to do the lights and the rear seats. As far as the lights I had to SLIGHTLY drill out the holes a little to ensure the light housing slid in easily. When doing the lights its a good idea to use canopy glue to glue the covers as well as gluing them to the fuse. DO NOT USE CA to glue them down as CA tends to fog as it cures. I decided to braid the wires using a heat gun to get this done. As for the rear seats I noticed mine were not sitting flush against the back as well as the floor. In looking a bit further into this I noticed it was the plastic needed to be sanded flush to the wooden frame, Once done they sit nice and flush! For the seats I would use EPOXY,HYSOL or E6000 to glue them down.

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04-07-2020 08:55 PM 10 months ago

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droneproz

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Up next is the instrument panel, I noticed on my unit this was off by a hair not allowing it to sit flush with the rest of the cockpit section. Luckily all I had to do is widen the holes with a Dremel to allow it to move forward. The rest was straight forward and nothing complicated at all. Now it was the accessories for inside the cockpit, I used epoxy for this but be sure to use a little so it doesn't ooz out. When it comes to the pitch lever epoxy alone may not be enough to hold it, so I used a tiny drop near the rear of medium CA then sprayed accelerator to hold it in place meanwhile epoxy dries. For the rudder pedals I did use medium CA. The front part of the floor seemed loose on my Heli, you will notice the seam behind the front seats. I added some EPOXY to this seam near the center so you dont see the glue once the front seats are installed. Since we are on the front seat topic, I did not glue my seats as I plan to order pilots. Want to be sure that they fit without problems before gluing. The last step here is to glue the 4 seats, this can be done with epoxy or E6000 as well.

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04-07-2020 08:59 PM 10 months ago

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droneproz

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After about 40 minutes I had the lights, interior cockpit and seats complete. Let the unit sit for a while so the epoxy sets up, next we will begin the frame and tail assembly. I can't believe how quick this model comes together.

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04-07-2020 09:12 PM 10 months ago

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droneproz

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Now its time for the tail assembly. This was pretty straight forward, be sure not to use too much CA to glue the torque tube bearings as too much can go into the bearing causing it to cease which wont be good. When gluing the bearings in I wouldn't glue them perfectly spaced, instead offsetting them 20mm towards the rear. I have attached a picture showing how harmonics work and you can see that installing the bearing right at the centers increased chances of vibrations. While I was on the frame removing the torque tube block to make it easier to install, I went ahead and added loctite to ALL the frame screws as none had it. I like to clean screws with alcohol before adding loctite to ensure a good bond. Its important to insert the boom with the notch on the left side since the receiving end of the boom mount is notched on one side only. Once done you will slide on rudder servo mounts, pushrod support and boom support mounts over the boom. Lastly when assembling the tail gear case pay attention to the NOTCH and be sure the LONGER end goes to the boom we just worked on.

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04-07-2020 09:34 PM 10 months ago

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droneproz

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Up next is what I believe to be one of the most important and crucial parts of a good flying Heli. Its important the tail slider is BUTTER SMOOTH. Trust me the extra time we spend now on it will be worth it later on. The first step before we start is to remove the control arm that attaches to the yoke, BE SURE not to lose the small brass washer. If you look closely at this brass washer it has a lip on one side, pay close attention to how it comes out. The small lip should make contact with the inner race of the bearing so when you tighten the screw it doesn't cause binding. Next you will have to remove the small arms attaching control yoke to tail grips, you must remove the INNER ones before being able to remove the OUTTER ones. Before we begin its important we understand where almost ALL Helis experience binging here. The small arm is made out of plastic and it has a brass insert, the binding can be in two places. One of the places is the fit of the brass spacer within the hole of the plastic arms, using a drill and turning it BY HAND not a drill will ensure a good fit. Make sure you go easy on this step because once you make hole too big its a little hard to go back. The number two place where binding is caused is in the total width of the plastic arm and the total width of the brass tube, if the width of the plastic arm is thicker than the brass tube then when you go to tighten the screws it will bind. we want to be able to tighten the screw and it to compress on the brass tube NOT the plastic arm. To achieve this you will need to LIGHTLY sand the plastic arm, this will take trial and error but take it slow. IMPORTANT ----> now that we spent all that time making the tail butter smooth we dont want to ruin it by adding loctite to the screw then inserting it in, sign this will cause loctite to ooz out and get not only on the plastic arm but also on the brass tube. I RECOMMEND you use a small pin and apply loctite to the pin then from the REAR insert the loctite into the threads. NOTICE when moving the tail you may notice a little resistance even after all this, this is because the screw that holds the tail grips to the shaft itself is applying some pressure but dont worry as the blades spin they will release this pressure. You can try this by pulling on both grips while moving the tail in either direction.

Lastly lets test fit the small tail section of the boom and torque tube, this small section dent require a bearing support. Remember to add the support rod for the pushrod and notice the notch on the boom.

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04-07-2020 09:44 PM 10 months ago

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chopper37

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Make sure you use thin CA glue to soak all the wood joints!

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04-07-2020 09:51 PM 10 months ago

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206 pilot

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Moving right along. Rich

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04-07-2020 09:53 PM 10 months ago

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droneproz

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Locate your frame mounts as well as the screws to hold the Frame down to the fuse. In test fitting the tail I quickly realized the seam of the tail wasn't even. This bugged me a lot so so started to sand them down to make them even. I also noticed that if you assembled the tail the way the it shipped, the tail crank at the rear would rub to the bottom of the boom or run into the wooden support for the skid. After analyzing I realized the boom HAD TO be trimmed shorter by another 8mm to allow the angle of the small section of the tail to fit perfectly as well as not risk the tail crank assembly to rub. Take it slow so you can ensure the seams line up.

Servos arrived!! these guys look crazy nice! As soon as I mounted the servos I noticed we had a problem, the bottom of the servos were bottoming out with the frame before making contact with the servo mount rails. Clearly the rails had to be brought up to ensure everything lines up, I made a jig for this to ensure both sides came out in the same location. I hooked up a regular receiver to get all the mechanics to a perfect 90 as well as get the swash leveled. I had to remove the anti rotation bracket to allow for the swash leveler to slide on, just make sure you install it in the same orientation as when you took it off. I did this by not tuning the shaft and aligning the same ball to the elevator ball. When you loctite the swash follower make sure it is perfect 90 when at mid stick.