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HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › I have a Fury Extreme that i want to...
06-07-2018 09:24 PM  75 days agoPost 1
Machinehead01

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Lower Michigan

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Convert to FBL. What head would you recommend? I see that the Fury 55 head is the same dimensionally. 10mm spindle, 10mm main, blade grips the same size except 55 are aluminum, what do you think?

"You judge according to the flesh; I am not judging anyone."

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06-07-2018 10:25 PM  75 days agoPost 2
jbjones

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Columbus, Mississippi

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Machinehead01
Convert to FBL. What head would you recommend?
I have a Whiplash head on my Extreme. I'm not certain that I would put a Fury 55 head on there. I'd have to research that a bit more. The Whiplash head is all aluminum too, so I wouldn't get caught up worrying about the material if it were me.

Whiplash heads are pretty pricey, IF you can find one. You may could find a Tempest 3D/FAI head and remove the flybar. I did that to my Tempest FAI. I can't say that I recommend that, but it's possible.

J. B. Jones

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06-08-2018 01:04 AM  75 days agoPost 3
Machinehead01

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Lower Michigan

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I have the FBL Fury 55 head on another 600 class machine. I guess what I should have asked, is if the 55 head would handle a 700mm size blade. Like I said the plastic grips and center block that are on the current Extreme head and the original flybarred head for the 55 are the same. So if apples are apples... Should be a direct match up, yes?

"You judge according to the flesh; I am not judging anyone."

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06-08-2018 01:52 PM  74 days agoPost 4
KevinB

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Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

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I converted mine to FBL years ago just using the original head. Not sure how well you can see it in this pic...

KevinB

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06-08-2018 02:44 PM  74 days agoPost 5
Ladymagic

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South Korea

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Machinehead01
I should have asked, is if the 55 head would handle a 700mm size blade.
Quick answer? Probably will work initially, but at the same time, you don't for sure know the long term effects because there is a significant difference in the disc loading between a 600mm blade and a 700mm blade. That variance could be the difference in your retro fitted 600 class head failing in flight or not.

700 class heads are statistically engineered to be more robust versus their 600 class counter parts due to that fact. And while they might physically look similar, there are likely some unforeseen mechanical and geometrical mismatches that could make for a poor flying or unreliable machine.

Personally, if you really like your heli I wouldn't risk it. Parts for your Fury are already hard enough to find these days. If you really wanted to do a FBL conversion, I think you'd do better to try a 700 head from another MFG, like SAB or Align if you can't find a direct upgrade for your Fury. You might have to work some magic to get it to fit on your machine, but at least you would know that those heads will handle a 700mm+ disc load with no problems while still giving you maximum pitch range. Maybe even try a 3-blade conversion...that could be fun too.

Mellisa

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06-08-2018 04:46 PM  74 days agoPost 6
wjvail

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Meridian, Mississippi

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MA122-205

https://www.miniatureaircraftusa.co...name=flybarless

https://www.cajunaircraft.com/produ...ant=20630187265

http://rcheliworld.com.au/index.php...product_id=2105

I put the above head on my Tempest. You will find this information useless. 1.) they are out of stock almost everywhere and 2.) they are prohibitively expensive.

Maybe you can find one used. Or on clearance somewhere. I highly recommend the head if you can find one at a price you can live with. Sooner or latter you will run across an entire X-Cell helicopter in the classifieds with this head for less than the price of a new head.

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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06-08-2018 05:10 PM  74 days agoPost 7
Dee Flies 3D

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Farmington Hls, Mich - USA

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+1 to what Kevin B showed. This will handle the blade size/disk loads & is easy to do.. AND you can put it back FB if you needed to...
I have done many of these mods & they work quite well, they just arent 'DFC' style..

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06-08-2018 06:52 PM  74 days agoPost 8
Flyin for Jesus

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Troy, IL. 62294

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I removed my flybar and then drilled and tapped the larger part through the head that the flybar went through. Then used set screws to lock that flybar piece so it wouldn't move.
Did a full FBL setup and haven't touched anything since.

Cost me a couple hours of my time.

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06-08-2018 07:29 PM  74 days agoPost 9
Ladymagic

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South Korea

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Flyin for Jesus
Then used set screws to lock that flybar piece so it wouldn't move.
I'm not quite following...so, you removed the flybar, but you left the flybar cage and seesaw? Are you saying you just drilled more holes in your aluminum head to lock the seesaw from pivoting?

Seems like you could have just removed the entire flybar assembly like most folks do and called it good. It leaves a big'ol hole in your yoke but watevs right? Just asking.

The main reason I see folks buying dedicated FBL heads to upgrade FB machines is more for aesthetics than anything else because it lowers rotor height significantly since you don't need all that extra room on the shaft for the follower assembly. It does improve appearance and in most cases, response and feel in flight.

Mellisa

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06-08-2018 08:08 PM  74 days agoPost 10
Flyin for Jesus

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Troy, IL. 62294

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If you just remove it and run links direct from swash to blade grips, you'll probably get +/- 25 degrees of pitch.
By locking the seesaw part, you still have all the geometry correct.
FBL blade grips have the ball for the linkage a lot further from center than FB blade grips.
I screwed into the seesaw part and then had the set screws stick out so that when the bolt went through the bearings for that part, it was tight.
Its just my way, it worked.

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06-08-2018 08:28 PM  74 days agoPost 11
Machinehead01

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Lower Michigan

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Kinda what I suspected......
This is a picture I took of MY rotor head. It was sold as the FBL head for the 55. The only difference between the Whiplash head and the 55 head is the gap thru the head block, right under the barrel of the head axle. Otherwise everything else is the same. 350.00 + ???!!! That's nuts! I bought my head AND the MA swash for 250.00 back when the 55 was under initial production! Might have to go looking at a Synergy head!

"You judge according to the flesh; I am not judging anyone."

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06-09-2018 11:03 PM  73 days agoPost 12
wjvail

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Meridian, Mississippi

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Machinehead01
350.00 + ???!!! That's nuts! I bought my head AND the MA swash for 250.00 back when the 55 was under initial production!
X-Cell was never a discount brand. There were a lot of forces that sent Miniature Aircraft to the great holding pattern in the sky. Their pricing was certainly on the list.

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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06-10-2018 01:01 AM  73 days agoPost 13
Machinehead01

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Lower Michigan

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They are and were...
Always quality that was never one of their issues, but 350.00???!!! I've heard nothing but good about the Synergy line and they are way cheaper. Think I might just swap the Synergy head to my 600 class and the MA head to my Fury.

"You judge according to the flesh; I am not judging anyone."

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06-13-2018 07:36 PM  69 days agoPost 14
Richardmid1

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Leeds, England

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Just get some longer ball links like 10mm or so and screw them straight into the blade grip hole, just remove everything else, leave the washout base obviously and just cut the lower mixer arms off.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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06-15-2018 09:53 PM  67 days agoPost 15
Eco8gator

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Palm Beach, FL

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Agreed with the post above.

You will need to add a swash plate driver...many to choose from.

I'd just leave it flybared...not worth the investment...people forget but flybar helis do fly really nice and in some ways behave better than flybarless.

Xera Motors
ProBar
Minicopter
Thunder Power

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06-16-2018 05:39 AM  66 days agoPost 16
Flyin for Jesus

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Troy, IL. 62294

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I disagree with the two posts above.

I took pics of my fury FB head ( converted to FBL but you cannot tell that from the angle I took the pics from ) and my Furion 6, designed as a FBL head.
First the Fury, if you simply remove the bell mixer arms and screw in a ball, you'll notice how close to the head's center those balls will be located. ( The head button would almost cover them ) If the swash moves up and down say 1/2", that will give you possibly +/-25 degrees of pitch.

On the Furion 6, you'll notice how far out from center the balls are for the linkages, with this setup, 1/2" swashplate travel yields the appropriate +/-12 degrees of pitch.

So you can't just remove all the FB hardware and throw some linkages from the swash to the bladegrip. Just not going to happen...

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06-16-2018 12:49 PM  66 days agoPost 17
Eco8gator

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Palm Beach, FL

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People did this during the early flybarless days...

We typically used some sort of standoff spacer to get the ratio between the ball spacing on the head vs the swash to be 1.5:1. So if the ball spacing in the swash is 1 inch you want the ball spacing between the grip balls to be 1.5 inch when the grips are at 0 pitch.

It is more ideal to use a purpose made head but it can be done with what he has.

I personally would just fly it as is...it may be hard to believe but flybar helis do fly really nice.

Xera Motors
ProBar
Minicopter
Thunder Power

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06-16-2018 01:47 PM  66 days agoPost 18
KevinB

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Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

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Here is a closer picture of my Fury Extreme head conversion. You still keep the mixing arms to maintain the control ratio. It works very well.

I have to agree with an earlier post though....the only improvement in flight that I saw going to FBL was no more wanting to pull up in very FFF. Otherwise the flybar did the job just fine.

KevinB

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06-17-2018 04:52 PM  65 days agoPost 19
wjvail

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Meridian, Mississippi

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I have two Fury Tempests. One is flybared the other is flybarless. They both have OS 1.05 engines and MKS X8 servos. They both fly extremely well but they do not fly the same. Each is a different experience. I enjoy each for what they are.

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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06-17-2018 05:13 PM  65 days agoPost 20
wjvail

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Meridian, Mississippi

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I should add... When I converted my Tempest to FBL and removed the washout unit, I also shortened the main mast by 10mm. That, of course, required new shorter control rods.

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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