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HomeAircraftHelicopterAutogyros - Gyrocopters › New Toy! Durafly - G2
05-11-2018 01:02 AM  42 days agoPost 1
spaceman spiff

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Tucson

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My first RC Gyro arrived today!
Just toss in a reciever, very minor assembly,,, and with a bit of luck i get to try it out sunday.

Any advice on set up and first flight?

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05-11-2018 01:08 AM  42 days agoPost 2
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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spaceman spiff
Any advice on set up and first flight?
10 Hail Mary's and 10 Our Father's.....

Just kidding !! Good luck !

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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05-11-2018 01:16 AM  42 days agoPost 3
spaceman spiff

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Tucson

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Sound advice! Thanks! Hehehehe.

I have seen a few Youtube videos of folks having trouble with take offs, veering off to the left (?) and tipping over. Doh!

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05-11-2018 01:48 AM  42 days agoPost 4
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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I have a couple of friends that have not had great success with Auto-Gyros..... not your particular model but in general..... My understanding is that they are quite the handful !!

Let us know how you make out.....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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05-11-2018 02:27 AM  42 days agoPost 5
cdrking

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Seattle

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A guy at our field has had a few. They seem like an interesting aircraft for sure. He's had many successful flights with them.

To hover is divine, the alternative is rather PLANE.

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05-11-2018 02:58 AM  42 days agoPost 6
eeeeky

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Roosevelt UT USA

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Ive got the same model, with about 200 flights on it. Two main things.. Turn the roll control WAY UP. Move the links in all the way on the rotorhead, and be prepared to fly it like a heli till youre used to it(coordinated turns). Second, Let the prerotator get 100% up to speed before rolling for take off, it only take 4-5 seconds anyway, you can easily hear when its done accelerating. Ease the power up somewhat quickly, and dont be afraid to stick bang the roll control. It will jump right off the ground and fly great.

Youll get used to it quickly, and be amazed at how capable it is. Try your best NOT to tip it over, as the blades are EXTREMELY fragile. Order spares now.

Ive had 5 or 6 autogyros over the years. This is hands down the best flying one of them all, and not to mention by far the cheapest! Happy flights!

Lets Fly!

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05-11-2018 12:38 PM  42 days agoPost 7
w8qz

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Grand Rapids, MI - USA

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I've been looking at getting one of these myself. General reports heard are that it works well - just don't try to pull it off the ground too soon a.k.a. too low head speed.

"The helicopter is much easier to design than the aeroplane, but is worthless when done."

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05-12-2018 12:54 PM  40 days agoPost 8
Dyehard

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Cedar Bluff, Va.

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Taking the Durafly off with the head speed low can be very exciting, too low and it can be expensive. It does, however, fly pretty good once in the air. It tracks well and loops easily, even doing a sort of barrel roll with practice. Slow nose up landings are fun. A friend had a G1 a few years ago that I flew quite a bit. I keep saying I'm going to get a G2 but too many helis and airplanes have gotten in the way.

Allen Dye

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05-12-2018 01:42 PM  40 days agoPost 9
wjvail

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Meridian, Mississippi

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I too have one and enjoy it a lot. Others have given you some very good advice.

It isn't hard to fly but it has a few "corners" of its flight envelope that are unlike an airplane. It doesn't really stall but if you get it slow (a relive term since it is never fast) it looses roll control. At that point it just tips over and there is nothing you can do about it.

Initially consider landing with some power on. You must have airflow over the tail for positive control. A helicopter has tail/cyclic (pitch and yaw) control up until the blades stop. My auto-gyro needs airflow over the tail or you become a passenger to a single piloted plane.

Like eeeeky said, use the rudder. "Ailerons" do work to control roll but turns are best accomplished with a big slice of rudder.

Yes I broke my first blades. None of the blades I've owned have been even distantly balanced. Order a hub too. Again, it's cheep and fragile but is does work.

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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05-19-2018 05:32 PM  33 days agoPost 10
spaceman spiff

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Tucson

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Thanks guys,
The first flight started great. It popped right off the ground and was fun to fly, but a little bit of a handfull. Seemed a bit tail heavy. (?) Unfortunately it ballooned and flipped on landing. Doh!

I forgot to say the 10 Hail Marys. Pretty sure that was it.

It was pretty fun, i will be ordering a few sets of parts.

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05-19-2018 07:48 PM  33 days agoPost 11
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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spaceman spiff
I forgot to say the 10 Hail Marys. Pretty sure that was it.
Takeoffs are optional, Hail Marys are not !!!

Sorry about the mishap but with a few repair parts you’ll be back up in the air in no time ......

Next time keep the airspeed up a little through the landing.....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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05-19-2018 08:13 PM  33 days agoPost 12
wjvail

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Meridian, Mississippi

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spaceman spiff
Seemed a bit tail heavy. (?)
Well dammit. I suppose at least part of that crash is my fault. I forgot to mention I added lead to the nose of mine. I really did forget I had added weight. I did it a while ago and it's not the first thing you see when you pick up the model. Further, in my defense, this is not a model I fly often. It's more of a novelty that I take out once or twice a year.

I does fly OK without the weight but I found I prefer it a bit more nose heavy.

Here's the logic: As I mentioned earlier, you kinda loose control of the model when the power is removed. Without airflow over the tail you're just looking at a spinning thing with a foam thing under it. Airflow from the motor/propeller over the rudder and elevator really helps (hence my recommendation to land with the power on). My personal preference is that the model drop its nose when power is reduced. I would prefer to be "pulling up" elevator with the power on and with a nose heavy model. That way when the power is retarded and the elevator becomes less effective, the model naturally drops its nose. I have nothing to prove that this is actually what is happening aerodynamically. I just know I like mine with a bit of lead in the nose.

Mine has 10, 1/4 oz bits in the nose. I suppose that is 2 1/2 oz.

Again. Sorry I didn't mention this in my first post.

Bill

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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05-19-2018 09:44 PM  33 days agoPost 13
spaceman spiff

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Tucson

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There was a CG specification in the manual, but i was not entirely sure what to make of it. I just hung it by the rotor and said, well crap, i guess that will do for now.

This thing is cheap, and easy to fix. no bigee.

What size battery do you use?

It would be great if it can make a nice transition to glide when the power is off. I will try a little nose weight, i was also wondering about decreasing the rotor lean angle slightly, might acomplish the same thing?

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05-19-2018 09:57 PM  33 days agoPost 14
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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spaceman spiff
There was a CG specification in the manual, but i was not entirely sure what to make of it.
Don't understand your statement.... if it tells you where the CG is then why would you not want to make sure your model met the specs ??

Cheap or not, $$ is $$ let alone the down time waiting for replacement parts !

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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05-19-2018 09:57 PM  33 days agoPost 15
wjvail

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Meridian, Mississippi

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spaceman spiff
What size battery do you use?
I've been using 1,300 or 1,350 3S batteries. What's everyone else using?
spaceman spiff
There was a CG specification in the manual, but i was not entirely sure what to make of it. I just hung it by the rotor and said, well crap, i guess that will do for now.
I did pretty much the same thing minus reading the manual. I just hung it on the rotor head for the first flight. As I said, it flew OK that way but I found I liked it better with the CG forward of the main mast.

I don't know if anyone else has opted for this CG. It is something I came up with by standing in a field with a few battery packs and a few sticks of lead.

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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05-19-2018 10:05 PM  33 days agoPost 16
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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I would add some epoxy or foam safe adhesive to those self stick lead strips..... I've seen them come loose and fly off during flight and it's not pretty when you're not expecting a shift in CG.....

Being that this is a cheap model it probably would not be a great loss but on more expensive models we've always added the extra security.....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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05-19-2018 10:27 PM  33 days agoPost 17
spaceman spiff

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Tucson

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JuanRodriguez
Don't understand your statement.... if it tells you where the CG is then why would you not want to make sure your model met the specs ??
I did attempt to check it, not like i didnt want to know.

Besides, the specs often are not going to produce the best results. On most planks, i end up adjusting CG untill i get the sort of behavior i like. It flew OK-ish, i just screwed up the landing.

wjvail, i am using 1300 3 cell.

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05-20-2018 01:40 AM  33 days agoPost 18
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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Ok .... but you described a “tail heavy “ condition.... which means that the C.G. was off ...... the C.G. spec provided by the manufacturer is always the best place to start, IMHO ......

Like you , I’ve always preferred more nose weight in my models for my flying style but the intended C.G. is a great place to start.....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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05-22-2018 06:23 PM  30 days agoPost 19
spaceman spiff

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Tucson

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I ordered blades and prop from hobbyking, but they are back ordered on the blade grip assemblies, and the head.

Are there alternative sources for these parts? Maybe a different rotor?

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05-22-2018 08:53 PM  30 days agoPost 20
old nitroman

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Naples florida

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use only one bolt for blades use tooth pic in the other if you tip it brakes the tooth pic and saves the blades

E5s and E7se,and a 766, Roban bell 222 800 superscale,450 bell 4 bladed head,gobby 380and 420 ,180cfx

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