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HomeOff Topics › Random Power Loss 2008 Nissan Versa
11-19-2017 03:17 AM  11 months agoPost 1
sjgusmc21

rrApprentice

San Antonio, Texas

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I posted this in the Nissan Versa Forums, but thought, what the heck, would post it here a well. Someone might just know the anser.

I own a 2008 Nissan Versa and it has been a great car. It now has 110K miles on it. In the last two weeks, my wife has called me twice from work, with the kids in her car, frantic. The power steering will go out as well as the brakes, and the engine begins to stall. Of course, the dash panel is lit up like a Christmas tree. Turn it off, let it set for a minute, and everything is fine. This first happened 2 weeks ago, at a 7-11 gas station right next to our housing area. She pulls in, gets gas, drives off maybe a quarter of mile, then bam. This happened again last night, same gas station, almost identical distance.

The first time, I suspected the serpentine belt. So I replaced it. Thought all was well. Then it happened again yesterday, same gas station, same distance. This is the only gas station she uses. No other gas was purchased between the two incidents.

Again, using the KISS principle, serpentine belt first (1st incident), and since the 2nd incident, I am suspecting bad gas or gas pump. I put some HEET in the gas last night, topped it off with premium and opened it up on the highway. as expected, performed flawlessly. No CEL, nothing.

Once again, the problem occurred so I replaced the fuel pump. Certainly SEEMED TO HELP, but just today, it happened twice to her.

Took it to Advance Auto tonight and had the store manager (seemed really knowledgable) test the battery and alternator. Both passed easily.

So I am stuck now. He suggested that I replace the Fuel Pump Relay. It isn't quite that easy. It seems that the FPR is located inside of part 284B7-EM33A Chassis Control Module and is a non serviceable item. A new one runs $300+, a used one $100+.

If any one has any suggestions, I would GREATLY appreciate it. I would take it to a shop, but because I know it is a intermittent problem, who knows what they will tell me and try to charge me for. All I know, is I can't keep risking my wife and small daughters driving around in it when it looses power. According to her, she barely has time to pull over before it completely dies.

Appreciate any advice or experience given. Thanks.

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11-19-2017 05:47 AM  11 months agoPost 2
InvertedDude

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USA

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sjgusmc21
I had a new 2015 nissan sentra SV.

It is the CVT/Computer shutting down to protect the CVT transmission. It is a sensor in the transmission that detects the temperature of the CVT fluid.

Nissan will not tell you this. This is why I traded my 25k miles Nissan for a new 2017 Camry.

You are risking your family's life in case the car stalls as you turn into an intersection. You described the exact stalling or non-operational limp mode.

Nissan is such a joke these days, I lost my respect for them!

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11-19-2017 06:45 AM  11 months agoPost 3
Pistol Pete

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Seffner, FL

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Things I would check...

Ignition switch. Women tend to like adornment and extra whatever in their key rings which incidentally is usually half the weight of their purses.

Battery cables. Specially the negative

Reset ECM by disconnecting both battery cables and shorting them for a few minutes which drains capacitors and resets module.

Replace Mass airflow sensor...but that should put out a code.

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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11-19-2017 01:25 PM  11 months agoPost 4
sjgusmc21

rrApprentice

San Antonio, Texas

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Thank you both for your suggestions.

As it would be nice to just get rid of it, it would financially be difficult for us to do so at this point. But if I can't figure it out, then we will have no choice.

As for limp mode, there is no code, no SEL, nothing.

Yes, she had a small wallet hanging from her key. I stopped that as soon as I noticed it. If any damage was done, IDK as I can't get the d@mn car to do it when I drive it. And I put it thru it's paces. A new ignition switch is about $30.

Battery cables are clean and very tight. But it is curious...when the manager from Auto Zone was hooking up his computer, the had to try it several times as it didn't show the + and - connected. He finally got it right, but I didn't see any difference in the was he was connecting them to the battery.

I did completely disconnect the battery when I swapped the fuel pump. Will try this today.

I will look at the MAF today, clean it out, and see if I can find a new one.

Thank you again for all of your help. She is learning to drive my truck today....whether she likes it or not. I will drive her car to work until we decide what to do.

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11-19-2017 04:07 PM  11 months agoPost 5
InvertedDude

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USA

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sjgusmc21
As for limp mode, there is no code, no SEL, nothing.
My car did the exactly same thing, no code except MAF. It had a TSB to clean the MAF sensor out.

Last time the fluid was drained from the CVT?

I will try to help you fix your car.

Do the Key Ignition replacement as Pistol Pete suggested. You can grab your wife's keys and pull on the ignition to see if you can duplicate the problem.

Pull off your Transmission and Brain box (Wiring Harness Connector) for the car (Both may be integrated as one unit. Get some dielectric grease and check the pinions for bent or needing to be bent. Make sure the ground wire is off the battery before you do this. (Clean off the old stuff on the harness)

If this two things do not solve your problem, there is nothing else I can do for you unless I have the car myself.

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11-19-2017 05:02 PM  11 months agoPost 6
sjgusmc21

rrApprentice

San Antonio, Texas

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InvertedDude, Thank you. I will do what you suggest. I have a few days left before I make my final decision.

Honestly, at this point, with Black Friday coming up, looking at a 2016 Toyota Camry. Price is right and they are outstanding vehicles.

I will let you know and someday I hope I can return the favor/help!

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11-21-2017 03:49 AM  11 months agoPost 7
InvertedDude

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USA

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sjgusmc21
Check your ASL relay (Main relay that powers majority of electronics) It may be loose or jitters on the inside causing temp power fluctuations.

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11-21-2017 03:59 AM  11 months agoPost 8
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

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Computer module....

If you can, get rid of the car.....not worth this hassle.

Don't waste any more time or money....much less the stress.

Logo 600SXs, 800XX, TDR IIs

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11-21-2017 03:34 PM  11 months agoPost 9
sjgusmc21

rrApprentice

San Antonio, Texas

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Guys, thank you, but I have made the decision to get rid of it. I just can't consciously let my wife and family ride in it. I drove it to work myself yesterday, and it did fine, however I know it is inevitable that it will happen again. But at what speed, at what intersection, and what overpass, etc.

I have done my best, and have saved us a ton of money in the last 2 years of owning it. I have done things I have never done before, so I have learned a lot. But its time, and I am big enough to know when to 'hang it up'. Consider it 'hung'.

Looking at a 2016 or 2017 Toyota Camry LE. OMG cars are inexpensive compared to SUV's and trucks. I was really shocked by this.

Might look at a 2016 Honda HR-V. Good reviews and good ratings.

Both are great, I just think in reliability (long term) and cost fix, Toyota's have the edge. IMO.

Thank you all for your help and input. Happy Thanksgiving to you all!

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