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HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › Nitro Engine corrosion from gummed fuel
08-04-2017 10:05 PM  10 months agoPost 21
EEngineer

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TX

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"Have a Beer and relax!"

Whatever...

Go have another beer...or 3....it's your Friday...

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08-05-2017 02:27 AM  10 months agoPost 22
InvertedDude

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JuanRodriguez
Per Juan suggestion honing cylinder wall.

Juan if more honing needs to be done, pls let me know!

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08-05-2017 03:16 AM  10 months agoPost 23
InvertedDude

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Engine Assembled
I decided to use an older piston ring off my good engine. Save my new ring for a good known engine. I think it will great great in a plank engine. I am willing to install it into my back up beat up raptor 50 just for giggles?

Plank or beat up raptor....you'll decide!

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08-05-2017 06:51 AM  10 months agoPost 24
Gearhead

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Vt

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see my link, I don't see cross hatching in your photo of the liner

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...7k1.bRBZzRUwdS8

Jim
Buzz Buzz Buzz

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08-05-2017 07:04 AM  10 months agoPost 25
InvertedDude

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Gearhead
So more honing needed with cross hatching? How far can I go before it is too far?

This is the tool I am using, not sure how you get a cross hatch without using balls stones?

This is the tool I am using.

Do not have this tool.

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08-05-2017 07:28 AM  10 months agoPost 26
InvertedDude

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Better Photo

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08-05-2017 12:35 PM  10 months agoPost 27
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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Second pic looks better .....
I would try a little more spring tension , a little less oil , low speed on the drill and fairly quick in and out motion ...... do it for 10 seconds at a time and check in between times ....
You're not far off ..... All in all, it's 100% better that what you had to start.

Motor might be easier to break in on the bench or in your plank trainer....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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08-05-2017 03:33 PM  10 months agoPost 28
utahbob

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St. George Utah

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just my two cents..
This kinda stuff is fun to do if you have the time..I used to try and salvage worn out parts but as my flying improved I found that I wanted the motors running their best..and unfortunatly that usually requires new parts..mixing and matching parts that have worn in with different parts seldom works. But everybody has to learn..have fun..these days I replace brgs.; liner; piston;con rod and ring and run at least a gallon of fuel rich and really break them in gently before runnin them hard and that translates to long life. I also found that rinsing the rear brg. with fuel after a flying session followed by a few drops of mineral oil to coat the balls and race can extend the brg. life greatly.

I do a great decending funnel!

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08-05-2017 04:29 PM  10 months agoPost 29
InvertedDude

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utahbob
Yes sir! I will do that.

Here is a photo of 2 tanks run in my Raptor 50. Rich at 155 F power is okay for fast FF and hovering....3d stick banging tic tocs.......humm no I will put in a new engine....could lean the needles more to get additional power.

Otherwise it can be a great plank engine! I enjoyed this! Much fun!

My other OS50 engine will be brought up to par for power.

Do i need to get my TT50 pro engine carb intake bored out to accept 60l carb?

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08-05-2017 05:37 PM  10 months agoPost 30
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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2 tanks ?? You need to run at least one gallon of fuel to properly seat that ring to your newly honed cylinder!! And you need to run it on the RICH side and keep it on the rich side after that ... otherwise you'll wind up with a mess as in your first pictures......

You wanna be able to "bang the sticks" then fly electric!

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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08-05-2017 06:33 PM  10 months agoPost 31
InvertedDude

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JuanRodriguez
I agree with you 100%!

Junk motor, remember?

I gotta make test bench to run these motors. Didn't have anything yet.

The motor was so rich, probably 6 minute tank! Plus, I wanted to try it really bad!

The first tank gave me slight issues on controlling temps.

2nd tank was too easy to tune...I sounds and runs like my other newer engines. It had power to hover and go into FF. I was backing off on throttle curves to keep RPMS down.

Don't forget I used an old ring from my better OS 50 engine. I would rather save my $20 onto my better engine.

The engine has power to be a great trainer plane. There is no doubt about it. I need to get that test bench set up and record it for you guys!

Bench test recording is next to do list. I appreciate your feedback and making suggestions. I didn't ignore your suggestions, just limited on doing ever thing.

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08-05-2017 06:39 PM  10 months agoPost 32
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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Even though it's a "junk" engine , you should be doing things right instead of rushing through it helter skelter........ even though it's a used ring it is NEW to the recently honed liner . You should follow the same break in procedures as if it were a new motor .......

But we both know you're not going to .....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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08-05-2017 06:48 PM  10 months agoPost 33
InvertedDude

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Review
Engine acquired

1)Frozen bearings (Both)
2)Forcefully removing crankshaft
3)Carbs gummed out
4)Piston/Cylinder damaged from lean run
5)Steel wool and brake honing tool
6)Carb cleaner and motor oil
7)Replaced piston ring with a used one

Total cost $15

Result great plank engine? To be continued!

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08-06-2017 03:06 PM  10 months agoPost 34
wjvail

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Meridian, Mississippi

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A lot of stuff will buff out with some Windex and a Magic Eraser.

If I've gone to the trouble of removing a bearing, 9 times out of 10 a new one is going back in. There is no bearing in one of my helicopters harder to get at than the engine rear bearing. By the time I remove the engine from the helicopter and remove the fan, head, sleeve, piston, back-plate, crank, carb etc, a new bearing is going back in.

You are correct in that a lot of times what looks like corrosion on a bearing or on the crank is simply baked on oil residue and can be removed with careful cleaning. Even so, I still put a new bearing in.

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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08-06-2017 03:41 PM  10 months agoPost 35
InvertedDude

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wjvail
Send that sleeve to me and I will hone it out!

The other parts need to be replaced! I can't buff that out!

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08-06-2017 04:20 PM  10 months agoPost 36
utahbob

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St. George Utah

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Remember that when
You hone out the liner..you are removing material from an already worn bore..putting a worn ring in a worn and honed bore is a "double whammy" for trying to get a tight fit between piston; ring and liner..it would be nice if OS made "1st" over pistons and rings for liners that are worn or damaged..they don't cause they want to sell new motors and new parts..you can be sure that they have done extensive testing to get their tolerances just right to get decent engine life..but also to stimulate new parts sales.

I do a great decending funnel!

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08-06-2017 04:21 PM  10 months agoPost 37
EEngineer

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TX

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What happened to the bushing on the lower end of that con rod?

Where did it go?....

Looks like a new crank case is needed.....

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08-06-2017 04:49 PM  10 months agoPost 38
wjvail

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Meridian, Mississippi

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What happened to the bushing on the lower end of that con rod?
Where did it go?....
Looks like a new crank case is needed.....
Keen to guess?

Sadly, the whole thing was toast. To bad too 'cause I liked that motor.

Is it bad when engine oil glistens?

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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08-06-2017 05:08 PM  10 months agoPost 39
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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UUtah,

I think you may be thinking of "boring" a cylinder vs honing ..... I don't believe honing removes much material from the hard plating on the cylinder wall..... we may need to get a professional engine builder clarify .....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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08-06-2017 05:08 PM  10 months agoPost 40
EEngineer

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TX

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"Is it bad when engine oil glistens?"

And sparkles....gold color for bushings, silver for aluminum...

With a color combo for both.....

Logo 600SXs, 800XX, TDR IIs

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