RunRyder RC
WATCH
 3 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2      3     NEXT    >> ] 1258 views POST REPLY
HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › Nitro Engine corrosion from gummed fuel
08-04-2017 03:31 PM  12 months agoPost 1
InvertedDude

rrVeteran

USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Everywhere I read, suggestion is to replace bearings.

I decided to see if I could actually restore a gummed out bearing.

1) Remove bearings from engine block.
2) Inspect to actually see any rusting or pitting.
3) If not too severe, grab your carb cleaner.
4) Clean out the bearings with Alcohol 90 proof.
5) Use motor oil, soak bearings for a few hours. Motor oil is an excellent detergent. (my motor oil changed colors...more bluish)

I need to make an engine stand and actually test the motor myself. The bearings are slick smooth and appear to be corrosion free.

Try it for yourself!

I managed to free a OS Hyper 50 engine. Great compression and motor shaft spins free on bearings.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 04:18 PM  12 months agoPost 2
RM3

rrElite Veteran

Killeen, Texas - USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

given the cost of bearings... wouldnt it have been easier/faster to just buy and replace?

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 04:21 PM  12 months agoPost 3
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Just replace the bearings....the balls are probably worn out....providing lots of slop between them and the races....

Logo 600SXs, 800XX, TDR IIs

PM  EMAIL  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 05:18 PM  12 months agoPost 4
JuanRodriguez

rrProfessor

The Villages, Florida

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I would agree that if you're going to the extent of a teardown and removal of bearings the prudent thing to do would be to replace them ....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 05:34 PM  12 months agoPost 5
KJH

rrVeteran

Interlochen, MI

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Welcome to RunRyder, I-Fly-RC. Kudos on cleaning up the bearings.

-Kevin

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 05:41 PM  12 months agoPost 6
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

What us three posters were trying to say....is that....given the price of bearings coupled with the effort of replacing bearings....

Why not install new bearings instead?

Less overall effort....and perhaps better results afterwards....

Logo 600SXs, 800XX, TDR IIs

PM  EMAIL  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 05:48 PM  12 months agoPost 7
KJH

rrVeteran

Interlochen, MI

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

EEngineer,

My apologizes for that.

Where I live, bearings have to be ordered, which takes time to receive. I try to clean them, when I can, before replacement.

-Kevin

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 05:52 PM  12 months agoPost 8
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Fair enough....

But, rather then let them get to that state, use some after run oil....

And, with use, bearings will have to be replaced anyway....

That's all we were saying....

P.S.....Boca Bearings will have a new set at your doorstep in very little time at all.....

Logo 600SXs, 800XX, TDR IIs

PM  EMAIL  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 06:08 PM  12 months agoPost 9
JuanRodriguez

rrProfessor

The Villages, Florida

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

KJH,

I have 2 ignores under my belt.... not bad after 15 yrs on RR. What count would you consider "excessive" ??? 4 ? 5 ? 10 ?

The "three" of us were sharing some advice (aka-opinion) given to help based on our experience......

There is nothing wrong with what the OP did. That was his choice.

Thanks for editing your offensive post

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 06:45 PM  12 months agoPost 10
Nitro Bird

rrNovice

Tuscaloosa, AL.

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

If I take a engine apart and remove the bearings, their is no way I would put it back together without NEW bearings.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 07:43 PM  12 months agoPost 11
InvertedDude

rrVeteran

USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Hello you all!
Of course new bearings are cheaper. I totally agree, but think for a second?

What if you really wanted to fly and access to new bearings were a delayed prospect!

Don't tell me you haven't been in this situation! HaHa!

I am the kind of person that will check out what you say. Kinda like, trust but verify!

I will be happy to post a video of the engine running. You can tell me if the bearings are shot and in no way you wouldn't demote it to a plank engine!

I acquired this engine free and it is junk. If I can make junk function reliable and it pulls up straight vertical without exploding.....is the engine junk?

Pictures coming!

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 08:03 PM  12 months agoPost 12
InvertedDude

rrVeteran

USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Pictures
Post tear down and some slight repairs from wet steel wool on piston and sleeve. The object was to smooth out the jarred edges not remove metal.

Some work on sleeve and piston done.

I need to buy a piston ring and One O-ring high speed needle, then the engine will be ready to be tested.

If anyone wants to donate one used or new, let me know! I need a airplane pipe as well if anyone has one. Engine test is OS 50 hyper.

I am feeling pretty confident this is gonna make a great plank engine on a 40 sized trainer....unlimited vertical!

Pics:

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 08:21 PM  12 months agoPost 13
JuanRodriguez

rrProfessor

The Villages, Florida

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

From looking at your pics, the motor looks like it was run pretty lean....

The liner is pretty well scored on the exhaust side (only pic) and happens when the piston gets overheated and starts to melt.... the molten aluminum then gets deposited on the liner......the piston looks like it's all scored as well from the lean running.... Ring looks like it might be stuck in the groove (hard to tell from the pic)

You probably get the motor to run , don't know.... but I certainly would not put it in service on a heli .... (yes, I know you said plank trainer)

Anyhow, that motor needs a new piston, sleeve and liner..... For what you're gonna spend on those parts (you probably won't) you can probably find a new 50 for not much more money......

Good luck !

BTW, again it's hard to tell in a pic but that brown stuff on the rear bearing may not be rust..... it might just be discoloration from the fuel.....

PS-- Steel wool is not abrasive enough to do much good on the situation at hand.....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 08:29 PM  12 months agoPost 14
InvertedDude

rrVeteran

USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

JuanRodriguez
Yes, I could use super fine grit sandpaper. I am not sure I wanna go there yet. If I took out the jarred edges with steelwool with a new ring, wouldn't the ring mesh the scarring down some. The ring appears to be harden metal compared to piston and sleeve?

I plan to run the engine rich and tear it down to see if it is worse or not.

New 50 engine is like $200.00

I would have reused the old piston ring and flipped it over to the other side. It already cracked into 2 pieces.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 08:41 PM  12 months agoPost 15
JuanRodriguez

rrProfessor

The Villages, Florida

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

When someone legitimately tries to salvage the liner, they will actually spin up a cylinder brake hone in a hand drill and with a liberal amount of oil to help do the job and keep the heat down..... The hone can be bought at an auto parts store.... You need to remove what you call ALL of the "ridges" and then hone a cross hatch pattern back into the cylinder to get it looking as "new".... the cross hatching actually helps hold the oil against the cylinder as the motor runs.......

No, your new piston ring WILL NOT knock down the ridges..... unless the ridges are gone as described above , your new ring will never properly "seat" against the liner and your motor won't produce the power it should because the pressure is blown past the ring......

The cylinder wall is the "hardest" part of the equation...... You won't hurt it at all by using a cylinder brake hone to get rid of what you call "ridges"..... it's actually molten aluminum from the piston from the lean runs.....

I recently saw an OS 50 (hyper, I believe) listed for $150

And I have a NIB YS 50 (not listed) that I would sell for $150 which is a terrific price.......

So, the good deals are out there if you look around a bit.....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 08:51 PM  12 months agoPost 16
InvertedDude

rrVeteran

USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

JuanRodriguez
Okay, sounds good...brake cylinder hone at local parts store $14.99.

Thanks for tip!

Could be a useful tool over time.

On new engines, sounds good. I currently have a TT pro 50 and used OS50 Hyper and the junk OS 50 as well.

That is a fantastic price, I am currently running raptor 50 titan. Not sure if the fan hub will work on a YS engine?

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 08:59 PM  12 months agoPost 17
JuanRodriguez

rrProfessor

The Villages, Florida

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I had two Raptor 50 V2's a while back..... one had the Hyper and the second had the YS 50 motor..... I would assume your Titan can also use the YS....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 09:25 PM  12 months agoPost 18
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

"Don't tell me you haven't been in this situation! HaHa!"

No, I haven't....I take care of my engines....and have replacement bearings in house....

"no way you wouldn't demote it to a plank engine!"

What does that mean?

That implies that "plank" competitors don't take care of their engines.....makes no sense....

If you have scored the piston liner, it's toast....along with the piston....imo.

You might consider replacing those parts, too....

At least you got the engine for free.

Logo 600SXs, 800XX, TDR IIs

PM  EMAIL  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 09:52 PM  12 months agoPost 19
InvertedDude

rrVeteran

USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

EEngineer

Now I know you up rack up your post count by feeding words into my mouth! Not falling for your bait and switch tactics!

In no way I was demoting plank flyers, I fly planks!

Did you ever want to experiment things? This post is to experiment and push the boundaries of junk engines into working conditions. Heck why not?

The plank reference actually had some slight intelligent behind it. Dead stick landing!

Helicopter auto-rotation isn't my strongest suit yet!

Here: Have a Beer and relax! Your mind needs rest my friend from over simulation!

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
08-04-2017 10:03 PM  12 months agoPost 20
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Huh?

Logo 600SXs, 800XX, TDR IIs

PM  EMAIL  Attn:RR  Quote
WATCH
 3 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2      3     NEXT    >> ] 1258 views POST REPLY
HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › Nitro Engine corrosion from gummed fuel
 Print TOPIC  Make Suggestion 

 6  Topic Subscribe

Tuesday, August 21 - 1:57 am - Copyright © 2000-2018 RunRyder   EMAILEnable Cookies

Login Here
 New Subscriptions 
 Buddies Online