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HomeAircraftHelicopterHIROBOHirobo Turbulence › Turbulence D3v2
07-20-2017 01:24 PM  14 months agoPost 1
PaulBowen

rrKey Veteran

Victoria, Australia.

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Hello Hirobo comrades!

Just wondering who out there amongst us own and fly the rarely mentioned Turbulence D3v2.

I own one and love it, although it took quite a while to find the sweet spot in setup. I have no intention of ever selling it, along with my Freya.

Futaba T18SZ, JR Propo XG14, Hirobo fanatic!

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07-23-2017 06:50 PM  14 months agoPost 2
ampex456

rrApprentice

La Verne, CA

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Got one ready to start building. Very intriguing heli.

Still no problems, only solutions, governed by MARSHALL AMPLIFICATION. I'm a HIROBO Fan, R U?

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07-23-2017 07:32 PM  14 months agoPost 3
payne1967

rrElite Veteran

uk

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if the v2 flies better than the v1
you will have a truly fantastic and enjoyable time flying the v2
my v1 still has its fly bar and performs brilliantly

www.alcesterhelicopterclub.bmfa.org

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07-24-2017 02:55 AM  14 months agoPost 4
PaulBowen

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Victoria, Australia.

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Here's a run down on the changes I have made to mine for mostly cosmetic reasons. I don't fly 3d.

0404-701 EX floating rubber. Added for soft undercarriage mounting.
0414-188 WC landing gear. Clean sexy and very rigid. Sits flatter on the ground. Mounted with legs swept backwards improves ground stability tenfold.
0414-325 E3 gyro mount. Nicer than the plastic originals.
0414-338 RF carbon horizontal fin. Love the look and great for orientation.
0414-339 RF carbon vertical fin. Rubber mounted. Came with my Freya OP II. I believe the RF twister fins suit the Turbulence very well.
0414-483 D3 reserve tank.
0414-491 D3 under plate mount F. Matches the front unit and removes the flex in the carbon plate.
0414-503 D3 FRP cabin (white). Much nice build quality than the airbrushed unit. Easier orientation and gives that sexy original D3 wasp look.
2506-039 EX-03 Washer. I like the look of them.
2511-003 Cross member M3x26 in additional to and replacing and 2511-033. Again I like the look of them but also added some extras here and there.
Hirobo 2513-079 Skid Rubbers. Otherwise WC undercarriage would destroy the kitchen table!
JR Propo 70048 Foot skid cap (4). These are soft and tend to be more secure than the plastic Hirobo units.

Fun Tech F202 720 FBL.
Fun Tech 95mm tail blades.

Mikado VBar 5.3 Pro
Futaba T18SZ
Futaba R7008SB
Futaba BLS275SV x3 Cyclic.
Futaba BLS276SV x1 Tail.
Futaba BLS272SV x1 Throttle.
Futaba GY701 Governor.

When I built the helicopter I installed the softer white dampers and will soon install SDX dampers. I much prefer softer damping for my more relaxed flying style.

My aircraft in stock configuration was tail heavy even with a 2s3800MAh battery pack. To counter this I have installed 100 grams of ballast into the nose section of the canopy.

Futaba T18SZ, JR Propo XG14, Hirobo fanatic!

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07-27-2017 10:59 PM  13 months agoPost 5
raybans

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Northern Ireland

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Hi all,
thanks for starting this thread. Very timely.
I am trying to complete my build of a v2 after a few years!
Here are a few pictures.

"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted"

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07-27-2017 11:26 PM  13 months agoPost 6
raybans

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Northern Ireland

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Paul,

Likewise, I have fitted the 0404-701 EX floating rubber.

How did you 'secure' these? Did you hand tighten and use a smidgen of thread lock?

Thanks,
Raymond.

"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted"

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07-27-2017 11:31 PM  13 months agoPost 7
PaulBowen

rrKey Veteran

Victoria, Australia.

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Yes that's exactly how I did it.

The next tricky bit is tightening the lower bolts without twisting the rubber.

Thats a beautiful helicopter you have there!

Futaba T18SZ, JR Propo XG14, Hirobo fanatic!

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07-27-2017 11:36 PM  13 months agoPost 8
raybans

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Northern Ireland

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Yes - enjoy the building part. Not sure i'll have the guts to fly the thing! Its not exactly a very practical helicopter - lots and lots of fasteners!

When you dropped in the engine, did you use a piece of paper to create a gap between the gear teeth?

Raymond

"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted"

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07-28-2017 12:32 AM  13 months agoPost 9
PaulBowen

rrKey Veteran

Victoria, Australia.

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From memory I believe I may have used paper. I think the most important thing is to ensure the motor/clutch/starter shaft are all perfectly aligned. My intial alignment wasn't quite right. The second time I think I aligned and secured the clutch after the engine mount. It seemed to work better for me.

They are super fun to fly. Very very fast!

Futaba T18SZ, JR Propo XG14, Hirobo fanatic!

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07-28-2017 08:36 PM  13 months agoPost 10
payne1967

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uk

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my v1 along side my Freya pre-evo

www.alcesterhelicopterclub.bmfa.org

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07-28-2017 11:21 PM  13 months agoPost 11
PaulBowen

rrKey Veteran

Victoria, Australia.

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Hirobo make very nice helicopters!

I can see raybans you have found the lack of clearance between the upper front frame and canopy.

It was quite hard to find suitable locations for the gyro and receiver due to the tight canopy. I found the v2 must have a remote gyro sensor mounted on the aft gyro mount as the front tray vibrates far to aggressively. This was causing very high servo current and unusual handling with my initial BeastX+ HD. I then swapped to a VBar and its been perfect ever since.

Futaba T18SZ, JR Propo XG14, Hirobo fanatic!

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08-24-2017 12:24 PM  13 months agoPost 12
PaulBowen

rrKey Veteran

Victoria, Australia.

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Hi y'all

Today I replaced the bearings in my D3v2's OS105HR-R after 3 years and 27.5 hours runnng time. Believe it or not but it took about 7 hours. The D3v2 is a bit of a pain when it comes to engine removal. Luckily with the short shaft engine you can remove the two lower side carbon plates then unbolt the engine from the mount. These plates have the most difficult to replace nuts and bolts I have ever encountered. The engine was very surprisingly immaculate throughout except for the rear bearing which was a little loose and only slightly rough. The ring is still very black and the liner is perfect. I think 20 hours will become my default bearing replacement schedule, possibly 25. My Freya is waiting also for bearings having run 27.6 hours over less than 1 year. Unfortunately there is a little bit of scratching on the piston presumably from bearing particles. The bearing on the Freya is a lot noisier than the D3 which is a surprise to me as it has been run far less aggressively and also on far better fuel over its lifetime. The ring is still very black and the liner is fine.

As a final not and perhaps controversially for some I am going to add 2% castor to my fuel to help prevent bearing corrosion.

Futaba T18SZ, JR Propo XG14, Hirobo fanatic!

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08-24-2017 10:50 PM  12 months agoPost 13
payne1967

rrElite Veteran

uk

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I have been testing double sealed bearings for the rear crank bearing
so far the os50's I've got them in are running perfect
I pop the one seal out and grease the bearing (a little more than from out of its box) and then refit the seal

so far the bearings are perfect and the nitro hasn't effected the rubber on the seal with no rubber particles coming off onto the plug etc

www.alcesterhelicopterclub.bmfa.org

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08-25-2017 08:12 AM  12 months agoPost 14
iyoy

rrVeteran

Bacolod City, Philippines

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Turbulence
Very nice!

iyoy

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04-16-2018 04:05 PM  5 months agoPost 15
THX1138

rrElite Veteran

Indianapolis, IN

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This is still one of my all time dream helis. Sweet machines.

Lou

Just give me five dudes and two flashbangs...

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04-18-2018 10:12 AM  5 months agoPost 16
hgh001

rrApprentice

New Zealand

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Hi,

I’ve flown several machines since I started flying in 2006. Not going to into brand bashing however the others always had that something missing.

Got myself a Freya, SDX and Terbulence D3 V1 again. All of them fitted with nitro motors. Nothing can match the quality, drability and smooth flying a Hirobo helicopter offer.

Hirobo helicopters runs on rails!

Amazing that there are so many Freya parts on the V2.suppose they fitted it with the best parts.

Will fly them until I can’t see them anymore.

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04-18-2018 11:07 AM  5 months agoPost 17
JLF92677

rrApprentice

Southern California

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RAYBANS - Western Robotics Hercules Super BEC PRO

Just curious. Since you are using Futaba BLS HV servos and I am assuming you are using 2S LiPo RX pack (perhaps you are using 3S) may I ask why are you also using Western Robotics Hercules Super BEC PRO voltage regulator? If you are using 3S pack, you don’t feel 2S is adequate?

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04-19-2018 10:43 AM  5 months agoPost 18
hgh001

rrApprentice

New Zealand

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The Western robotics hercules super bec is highly recommended by various pilots (Bert, Bobby), solid regulator. Adjustable voltage, constinious 16A, peak 22A output.

http://www.western-robotics.com/wrl-hbecsp

If you want 8.4Volt from start to finish a 3S pack needs to be used to avoid voltage drop. I am unable to recall the theory with regards to voltage regulators however the supply need to be above the required voltage for optimal performance of the regulator. Upon current inrease the voltage will drop, thus constant voltage, variable current.

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