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HomeScaleAircraftHelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters Docs  BO-105
07-19-2017 09:34 PM  11 months agoPost 1
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Hi. Long time lurker, first time poster.

I will be stuffing this.....
20170719_144658 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

Into this....
20170719_144634 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

Should be fun!

Ordered a 4 blade head and 2 bolt blades from Vario (Joe). Maybe, just maybe I might have the mechanics in the fuse and ready for some test flights by Dalton this year if Vario doesnt take forever to get the stuff to Joe.

Steve

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07-20-2017 01:33 AM  11 months agoPost 2
cobieg

rrApprentice

Florida

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ooooooh, I like!

I didn't crash. I just ran out of airspeed, altitude, and ideas all at the same time!

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07-20-2017 11:29 PM  11 months agoPost 3
rcheli808

rrApprentice

Mililani,Hi-USA

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Sounds like a plan...

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07-23-2017 12:45 AM  11 months agoPost 4
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Mocked up the mechanics....
20170722_173508 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

Mocked up the woodwork...
20170722_173451 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

After washing the fuse inside and out with Dawn dishwashing detergent, I rough cut the door openings to have some access....
20170722_173606 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

Sanded the interior of the fuse at the glue lines and then started gluing in the woodwork...
20170722_183842 by Steve Smith, on Flickr
20170722_183852 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

Everything so far has fit very nicely and is going together without any major issues.

Steve

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07-23-2017 01:51 AM  11 months agoPost 5
JuanRodriguez

rrProfessor

The Villages, Florida

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Looks great so far....

Please keep us posted....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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07-23-2017 02:07 AM  11 months agoPost 6
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Forgot to mention, I changed the stock main gear to a 112T slant gear. Auto-rotation gear was also changed to a 104T gear and a 21T drive gear to speed up the tail a bit. Will be running a 12T pinion, 300kV motor. Should give me a nicely governed head speed of 1200rpm.

Steve

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07-23-2017 03:03 AM  11 months agoPost 7
TailKiller

rrApprentice

Panama City, FL

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Wow.. you don't take breaks between builds. Look forward to this one. Thanks for posting your motor, gearing and target head speed. Let us know if you find you need to make changes. It will help us in future builds.
Thx.

,Dennis
http://pcrcheliclub.com/
700 Astar Super Scale T-600 Bell 206 Trex 600 Naza H DX8

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07-23-2017 03:20 AM  11 months agoPost 8
coptercptn

rrElite Veteran

Mesa AZ. USA

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Looks like a good Combo Steve!

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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07-23-2017 06:04 PM  11 months agoPost 9
cobieg

rrApprentice

Florida

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Wow.. you don't take breaks between builds. Look forward to this one. Thanks for posting your motor, gearing and target head speed. Let us know if you find you need to make changes. It will help us in future builds.
Thx.
No kidding about taking breaks. Just following the long Airwolf build
wore me out Hope to see them both at Dalton.

Ron

I didn't crash. I just ran out of airspeed, altitude, and ideas all at the same time!

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07-23-2017 07:12 PM  11 months agoPost 10
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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STEVE
You are a WILDMAN!!!!

Looks like it should be a fun build...

See you at IRCHA!!

Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

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07-23-2017 10:43 PM  11 months agoPost 11
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Thanks friends!!

Scale is FUN!!!!

This fuse I won at IRCHA 2 years ago LOL!! I learned so much building Airwolf, that I consider this one to be an "easy" build (relative to Airwolf), and I will enjoy the easy going build and looking forward to "just flying it". No plans to at this time to go crazy with the details, just a cool (I hope) paint job.

Steve

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07-23-2017 11:19 PM  11 months agoPost 12
chopper37

rrVeteran

NJ and Long Island

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Steve use the 50/50 rule lol 50 feet away and 50 mph nobody will see it lol just have fun with it

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07-23-2017 11:32 PM  11 months agoPost 13
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Got the rest of the main woodwork glued in. Hopefully the glue joints are up to John's standards :laugh:
20170723_162222 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

Started getting the radio "stuff" installed on the chassis.....
20170723_162301 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

Got the ESC and motor wired up. Didnt realize I was out of 8mm heat shrink tubing, so need to get some to cover up the bullets...
20170723_162354 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

Started working on the raised tail gear box......
20170723_110808 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

Ran out of strawberry jelly, so I had to use Raspberry jelly for lube.....
20170723_111736 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

Gearbox finished. Went together nicely. Gears are ever so slightly out of round, but I believe they will "wear-in" without issue......
20170723_112604 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

Then started installing the gearbox into the boom. This was a MAJOR pain. The gear box is bolted to a 3D printed carrier. Had to do some surgery to the carrier to get the box to fit. Then had to do some pretty significant surgery and on the carrier and wood bulkhead that the carrier is bolted to just to get them to fit in the boom. Had to cut a hole in the boom for the carrier as it simply would not fit. No big deal, I can fab a cover plate, but you can see how the carrier interfered with the boom (it was hitting the boom where I cut the hole). Still not happy with how things are lining up. Tail does not turn as smooth as I would like, the claw connector between the gearbox and align tail unit is not in line with the output shaft (there is no way to get it to run in line), it is out maybe a couple of degrees, but it adds some "stiffness" to the drive line. I wish it had an articulated ball joint in stead of the claw connector, but there is not enough clearance for that type of joint. I would have to cobble something up if I went that route, as the output shaft of the gearbox is 5mm OD, but the short torque tube from the gearbox to the align tail unit is 8mm OD. FYI - I have some large ID heat shrink on order that I will use over the claw and cruciform joint to keep the yellow colored cruciform in place.
20170723_152449 by Steve Smith, on Flickr
20170723_152457 by Steve Smith, on Flickr
20170723_152510 by Steve Smith, on Flickr
20170723_152543 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

Steve

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07-27-2017 01:57 AM  11 months agoPost 14
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Mini update.....

Last bit of woodwork being hysoled in place....
20170726_202130 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

Gearbox, gearbox holder, boom assembly completed.....
20170726_202119 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

And wanted to show a small "mod" I made. The Align torque tube is inserted into a claw connector. The torque tube is held in place via two grub screws in the claw connector spaced 180 degrees apart. Usually this is no problem, but as you can see in this pic, the torque tube is hollow.....
20170726_201700 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

This concerned me. I didnt want to file flats onto the torque tube for the grub screws, thinking the walls would become to thin and could fail overtime. I also didnt think just "pinching" down on the torque tube with the grub screws would be a "trouble free" long term solution either.

So I decided to drill a hole in the torque tube to capture one of the grub screws. The grub screws are 4mm, so I sized the hole exactly to outer diameter of the grub screw......
20170726_201846 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

So one grub screw slips into the hole in the torque tube, and the other grub screw on the opposite side pinches the torque tube.
20170726_201926 by Steve Smith, on Flickr

Obviously the grub screws are loctited in place and then a piece of heatshrink will be placed over the claw connector and grub screws to hold everything in place.

So in essence, the torque tube is "pinned" to the claw connector. Absolutely no chance of the torque tube to claw connector connection slipping. I left one grub screw pinching the torque tube so the torque tube can not "rock" back and forth and elongate the hole in the torque tube the other grub screw captures (which could lead to failure).

Me no likey tail issues, so I think this is a decent solution that still allows for future service-ability if needed.

Steve

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07-27-2017 03:11 AM  11 months agoPost 15
Grimracer

rrVeteran

Eau Claire WI

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watching in...

Michael J Zaborowski

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07-27-2017 04:24 AM  11 months agoPost 16
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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Looking good Steve! glad to see this project getting off the ground. as for the tail drive issues, this is why I love the flex cable when it comes to a raised tail, so much simpler. Enjoying the build, keep the pics coming.

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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07-27-2017 06:46 AM  10 months agoPost 17
rcheli808

rrApprentice

Mililani,Hi-USA

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I second the use of the flex cable though I really enjoy watching your solutions to the scale building problems...Great work Steve!

Tim

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07-27-2017 07:46 AM  10 months agoPost 18
antja

rrVeteran

Levin new zealand

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that torque tube should have a aluminium stud in the end for the grub screws to clamp down on.

Tony.

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07-27-2017 01:41 PM  10 months agoPost 19
cobieg

rrApprentice

Florida

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Does the grub screw go to thru and pinch the tt on the inside while the other is pinching the outside?

I didn't crash. I just ran out of airspeed, altitude, and ideas all at the same time!

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07-27-2017 03:37 PM  10 months agoPost 20
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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that torque tube should have a aluminium stud in the end for the grub screws to clamp down on.
I agree, it should. The ID is a funky non-standard dimension and I do not have a lathe to turn down larger stock to fit.

Steve

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