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T-REX 700 › Trex 700E sold to me by local guy...need help
08-02-2017 08:05 PM  10 months agoPost 21
BeltFedBrowning

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Kansas City

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I don't know how you are uploading pictures, but when I click on them they don't open in the RR viewing window. Which means they are always tiny.

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08-02-2017 08:09 PM  10 months agoPost 22
InvertedDude

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USA

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BeltFedBrowning
Hold on, let me figure it out!

Try this!

https://rc.runryder.com/rr/rrpv.htm...1&TZ=-7&a=0&s=0

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08-02-2017 08:26 PM  10 months agoPost 23
JuanRodriguez

rrProfessor

The Villages, Florida

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That didn't work either.....

The small pic shows the solder is pretty sloppy.... but, can't zoom in on the pic to see it more closely.....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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08-02-2017 08:27 PM  10 months agoPost 24
InvertedDude

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USA

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JuanRodriguez
I will upload to google drive and you will be able to zoom. Be back in a few minutes!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5...iew?usp=sharing

Should work, open in a separate browser!

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08-02-2017 08:32 PM  10 months agoPost 25
BeltFedBrowning

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Kansas City

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Works for me now

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08-02-2017 09:31 PM  10 months agoPost 26
JuanRodriguez

rrProfessor

The Villages, Florida

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Works for me too now .....

That "soldering " job is not acceptable in my opinion......you need to get a good soldering station and the right type of solder to do that type of work.....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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08-02-2017 09:39 PM  10 months agoPost 27
InvertedDude

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USA

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JuanRodriguez
Alright, how about some suggestions on soldering tools I should buy? I am open to feedback, even if it is negative. I know there is always room for me to grow.

I did use the specific electric thin solder for this kind of work. My 30 watts and 50 watt solder gun wasn't up to heating it hot enough. This is why I went to MAP gas.

I had a nice puddle of melted solder in the inserts then simply moved the bare wire into the melted solder. It was easy when it is hot enough. The solder had a retract affect and filled the entire open gaps.

Took like maybe 15 to 20 seconds to cool down! Plenty of time to play with it!

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08-02-2017 09:51 PM  10 months agoPost 28
BeltFedBrowning

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Kansas City

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Don't play with it as it cools down. I have a fixture with two alligator clamps to hold it still while it cools down. If it got moved while it was cooling, it may explain the look of the solder. I would reheat it and wick some more solder in the connector without taking it apart.

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08-02-2017 10:35 PM  10 months agoPost 29
InvertedDude

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USA

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BeltFedBrowning
Ok, I will get some clamping tools.

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08-03-2017 04:36 AM  10 months agoPost 30
rcflyerheli

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Granbury, TX USA

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I use the Weller WTCPT 60 watt station, and it works great for 10ga wire and EC5 plugs. The tips are what control the temp and I've had no problem at all with it. Just keep the tips clean and add a dab of solder to the tip so it transfers the heat to the connector and wire.

Goblin 700, Trex 700DFC, Gaui X7, Logo 690SX, Logo 600SX; Trex 470 Trex 500
Amain Team Rep

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08-03-2017 12:34 PM  10 months agoPost 31
JuanRodriguez

rrProfessor

The Villages, Florida

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I-Fly-RC,

In addition to what has already been suggested, I would recommend you use this type of solder....

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&k...kfozk1659_e_p19

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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08-03-2017 05:52 PM  10 months agoPost 32
InvertedDude

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USA

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Thank you
I will add these items to the purchase list! I will try again for a more perfect solder pleasing to you all!

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08-27-2017 07:16 AM  9 months agoPost 33
InvertedDude

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USA

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Update 3
I attempt to fly the machine but encounter a vibration I couldn't solve.

The vibration is mostly towards the tail rotor. The vibs goes exactly up and down around 3 inches in both directions. (Not a tail wag)

This is what I have done so far.

Flybar adjusted
ESP motor checked for true rotation
Adjusted Head speed
New main shaft and spindle
New TT
New tail rotor shaft
All new gears
Different main blades and tail blades
Adjusted Gyro through all the settings
Adjusted TT bearings in tube....used 1 or 2 bearings...moved them in all directions.
Pulled tail rotor housing out to try to relief TT stress

The only thing I haven't replaced tail rotor hub/tail grips, it looks straight.

Do I buy another TT, Tail Grips and Tail Shaft?

I don't know what else to do to complete this machine for flight worthy.

Hope you can help me out!

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08-27-2017 12:55 PM  9 months agoPost 34
Rojoalfa

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Punta de Mata, Monagas-Venezuela

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/
/

Tail shaft is bend.

Try tu run your helicopter without rotors.
Plain shafts..

Look for vibes... Lubricate Bearings...

Reinstall rotors... One at a time... Check...
Balance tail rotor...

Balance tail blades... Very important...

/

Saludos cordiales,

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08-27-2017 04:39 PM  9 months agoPost 35
InvertedDude

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USA

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Rojoalfa
The vibs are pretty hard in the rear boom.

I took the tail rotor housing off and observed the TT shaft. You really have to look very careful, noticed a small uptick and down motion. I grabbed my 700 TT and it didn't do what the 600 TT did. I will go ahead and reorder a new 600 TT. Hopefully the hobby shop will replace my TT, since it was purchased new.

1) TT ordered
2) Tail shaft ordered
3) Tail hub ordered

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08-27-2017 06:06 PM  9 months agoPost 36
InvertedDude

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USA

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update 4
Reinstalled the TT 700 boom and TT. Tail rotor issue is resolved but I found another issue. I have some vibs in the main rotor system or motor.

Very light one, helicopter can hover much easier and better but the vibs caused the main body to wobble slightly.

GEEZ..LOL

600 New TT is bent, that needs to be replaced.

Now working on the rotor head/ motor area to resolve wobble issue.

The main rotor head has new main shaft and spindle. I hope I am not getting defective parts from a certain hobby shop that is really popular. I will call them monday to see if they are willing to step up.

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08-27-2017 09:28 PM  9 months agoPost 37
InvertedDude

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USA

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update 5
Replaced main shaft

Replaced Spindle

Replaced complete rotor head

Replaced matching flybar paddles

Check ESP Motor....spins turn and smooth

Checked dampers

Checked for slop

Replaced a few ball links and balls

The darn thing still shakes at the rotor head/mostly at the landing skids....Really?

I am stumped....

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08-27-2017 09:59 PM  9 months agoPost 38
JuanRodriguez

rrProfessor

The Villages, Florida

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First , take the paddles off and make absolutely certain the flybar is perfectly centered with the center of the head ......

Second, re-install the paddles and make sure they are screwed in so they are exactly the same distance out from the center of the head .......

You sure are having a lot of issues ...... is there any experienced pilots in your area that can lend a hand sorting things out ??

Sometimes an extra pair of eyes can spot something that's missing .....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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08-27-2017 10:23 PM  9 months agoPost 39
InvertedDude

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USA

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Update 6
Replaced gears and swashplate

Tested and replace both main shaft bearings.

Last step is to replace the ESP motor....or dampers

Still stumped.

JuanRodriguez

I did exactly as you described...paddles weigh same...flybar is centered on rotor head. Paddles are same distance on both ends.

I am waiting on my spouse to take a video, you will see what I have been dealing with.

It is evidently I have 2 separate problems....I solved the tail rotor issue but the main rotor hub still has the shakes...or lower landing skids.

I am suspecting it is the motor....I tested for warped shaft. Maybe there is a crack in the frames that are not obvious.

I have two other nitro 50 helicopters that fly fantastic!

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08-27-2017 10:36 PM  9 months agoPost 40
InvertedDude

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USA

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castle 100amp
Checking castle settings in program using castle programmer.

KHZ 12
PWM timing O
3.3v cutoff
autorotation enabled
Heli soft start
medium speed 5

Nothing that would cause shakes...

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