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HomeScaleAircraftScale HeliScale Helicopter Main Discussion Docs  Trex EC135
01-15-2017 07:11 PM  23 months agoPost 1
Peter WalesrrElite Veteran - Orlando Fl - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

After I had finished the Trex Lama and flown it for some time I decided I liked it so much, I would try something a little more scale but still using the Trex 700. I was fortunate to pick up a fully loaded 700E with flybar at OHB for a very reasonable price and I ordered the EC135 kit from Joe Howard who gave me a good deal on it as the Euro was ridiculously low at the time. Initially I am going to fly it with the flybar arrangement but later will add a 4 blade head to it. I had been working on the 700E so that I could fly it with the flybar at 1400 rpm and with the 4 blade head at 1200 rpm or anything from 1000 to 1500 rpm. I settled for an 8s battery for 1400 and can either run 6s at 99.5% or 7s for the 1200 rpm setting.

When it arrived, I did what we all do and ripped the box open to see what I had got. Much to my surprise, the fuselage was the same as the one I had fitted PHT3 turbines in a good few years back. As we all do fastidiously, I read the manual; from cover to cover, until I understood exactly how to assemble this thing. The first job was to cut out all the window openings in the fuselage. The last job is to cut and fit the glass, so I did the glass first!

Never let it be said I am not my own man! So on to page 2. Assemble the landing gear and screw it together. You can't define exactly where the cross members are going until you fit it to the fuselage so I cobbled it together and put it to one side for later

Then came the assembly of the chassis. A move away from the norm for Vario here. I expected a routed plywood chassis I would have to cut out and trim the corners with my #11 knife. I got a full CF chassis, also routed out and that gave me some extra work. All the rounded corners had to be filed square and the slots were too narrow for the CF lugs to fit into so they needed filing to fit as well. Then it has to be sanded where the lugs fit into slots and all epoxied together. This is the assembly before gluing.

As it is it is very rigid and strong. When glued together I expect you could drop it without a problem. For me, the extra work is distinctly outweighed by the advantage of the sheer strength and rigidity of this assembly. There are some doublers and mounting lugs to be bolted on before gluing so that is the next job.

Peter Wales
http://scalehelicopters.org

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01-15-2017 07:39 PM  23 months agoPost 2
goodhunting

rrVeteran

Slovenia ... somewhere in Europe

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Nice

I'll be following your build as this helicopter is of interest and I love to see master builders at work...

gh

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01-15-2017 09:33 PM  23 months agoPost 3
chopper37

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NJ and Long Island

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Another nice build on its way subscribed

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01-16-2017 01:23 AM  23 months agoPost 4
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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How dare you do the windows first!!! LOL...

Looking good peter! I like the CF frame, should be very rigid. I think this is a great step forward for vario. The Rex700 platform is very robust, stock replacement parts are plentiful and there are plenty of upgrade parts on the market. I'm really looking forward to seeing this all installed in the fuse.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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01-17-2017 11:15 PM  23 months agoPost 5
Peter WalesrrElite Veteran - Orlando Fl - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Your wish is my command Barry

The doublers are on and the mounting lugs bolted into place. The 24hour epoxy is set and this assembly is extremely rigid

The next job is to mount the assembly into the fuselage and bolt it through the landing gear. First the tail boom had to come off, then the ESC had to be moved out of the way. Then it was off to the drilling. I was a bit wary of doing this as Vario showed a hole being drilled through the mounting lug, then the fuselage and finally the landing gear. This would require an 18" long drill as it would have to be done from the top of the frames. Then I had another look and they had already drilled the landing gear with the right spacing side to side for the lugs. Holes were also drilled in the lugs so all I had to do was align the landing gear to the fuselage, centering it both ways (fore/aft and side to side) and then drill holes through the fuselage through the landing gear. I usually have a lot to say about Varios kits, often none too complimentary, but so far I haven't had a darn thing to whine about.

Peter Wales
http://scalehelicopters.org

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01-17-2017 11:19 PM  23 months agoPost 6
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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Looking Good!!!
Looks as if this is going to be a sweet heli...
I like your idea on the glass!! Your a rebel!!!

Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

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01-29-2017 06:22 PM  22 months agoPost 7
Peter WalesrrElite Veteran - Orlando Fl - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

After a bit of a break doing some maintenance and repairs I am back on the job and the first thing to do is file CF sheet to fit. There are 2 sub assemblies that bolt to the battery mount holes on the mechanics and then are bolted to the top of the fuse.

They fit fine to the mechanics but even though the mounting holes are slotted for adjustment, the top does not touch the cabin and if I bolted it down the cabin would distort.

I have the choice of filing the slots out even more or shimming the top of the CF plate to make it fit. After filing CF for 2 days I am in favor of shimming. The last piece of CF to be filed and fitted is the rear brace which bolts to the tail boom and to the CF ESC mounting plate on the back of the mechanics.

The problem is that you don't know the exact angle until you have mounted the tail boom in the tail and mounted the tail to the fuse, so Vario gives you a bit extra to play with. This is it upside down showing how the long rib underneath should fit though the slot in the angled piece which bolts to the ESC mount. I will have to fit that and glue it in place when it is assembled

So, on to something a bit more positive, but still a struggle. The tail boom has to fit right in the top of the transmission tunnel on the tail. Right at the point where the fin joins the tail was a lump of glass fiber. This stopped me lining the tail boom up exactly and when I got it close either the fenestron fitted or the tail boom fitted into the fuse and lined up with the drive shaft adapter. My dremel would not reach from the fuse end and I couldn't get at it from the fenestron end. I ended up getting a piece of 12mm tube, cutting a slot in it and winding some 80 grit sandpaper around the rod through the slit. Then I found I could not exert a lot of pressure at that length of shaft so it became a long tedious job. Anyway, its done now.

The tail gearbox mount is gluing right now, so once it is set, I can install the fenestron and do the tail pushrod

I have been asked why I don't cut the windows and doors out properly before assembling everything. For anyone else curious, here is the answer. There is a seam all round the fuselage which is much easier to sand if the fuselage is rigid. The windows are fitted first so that drilling holes and screwing screws does not distort the windows and make them not fit at final assembly. I will sand the gel coat down last before priming and doing it earlier may lead to scratches in the gel coat and grease from mechanics or my fingers may get into the primer and lead to fish eyes when painting.

Peter Wales
http://scalehelicopters.org

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01-29-2017 06:30 PM  22 months agoPost 8
sean911sc

rrVeteran

San Diego

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Good info on windows. Do you use any additional support and/or tubing for the tail control rod?

William S Harris

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01-29-2017 07:28 PM  22 months agoPost 9
payne1967

rrElite Veteran

uk

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looking good

www.alcesterhelicopterclub.bmfa.org

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01-29-2017 11:10 PM  22 months agoPost 10
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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Looking great Peter. My question, is the tail rotor drive on the trex fast enough for good operation of the fenestron or is a speed up unit or gears supplied with the fuselage for this?

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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01-29-2017 11:32 PM  22 months agoPost 11
Peter Wales

rrElite Veteran

Orlando Fl

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A good question Emile. I guess about 5000-6000 rpm on the tail if I run at full head speed, but I have dropped the head speed by 30%!

I have a strong feeling that a 4 blade head simply wont work which is a shame.

Vario do not supply speed up gears with the kit so we will have to see what happens when I get it in the air. I do have some spiral cut bevel gears which are speed up gears and they may get fitted.

Then again, may just leave it with e 2 blade flybar head as I have a super scale fuselage I am itching to get stuck into bit wont touch until this one is done.

Sean, yes and I should have pictures tomorrow

Peter Wales
http://scalehelicopters.org

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01-29-2017 11:43 PM  22 months agoPost 12
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Looking good peter. Align makes a set of speed up gears for the 700 mechs end of the tail drive. I used them in my MD500 build.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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01-30-2017 02:40 AM  22 months agoPost 13
Peter Wales

rrElite Veteran

Orlando Fl

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That's good to know Barry, i'll bear it in mind if I run into trouble

Peter Wales
http://scalehelicopters.org

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01-30-2017 01:42 PM  22 months agoPost 14
trondch

rrNovice

Mjoendalen,Norway

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A good question Emile. I guess about 5000-6000 rpm on the tail if I run at full head speed, but I have dropped the head speed by 30%!

I have a strong feeling that a 4 blade head simply wont work which is a shame.

Vario do not supply speed up gears with the kit so we will have to see what happens when I get it in the air. I do have some spiral cut bevel gears which are speed up gears and they may get fitted.

Then again, may just leave it with e 2 blade flybar head as I have a super scale fuselage I am itching to get stuck into bit wont touch until this one is done.

Sean, yes and I should have pictures tomorrow
Peter Wales
http://scalehelicopters.org
I am also building the EC-135 with Trex mech.

I have changed the front tail drive gear from stock 22 teeth to the original Align 21 teeth.This will give You about 500rpm more Fenestron speed.

The 22 teeth gives a tail ratio of 4.72 and the 21 teeth 4.95.
21 teeth comes stock with 700 Nitro, but fits the Electric as well.

I'm not finished with the build,but i have flown 3 test flights with good results.

Test setup: 4-bladed head and 700mm Helitec semisymetric blades. Rotor speed 1500Rpm,Fenestron speed 7425Rpm.No Fenestron problems,good tail authority in both directions.

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01-30-2017 04:08 PM  22 months agoPost 15
Sleeper

rrApprentice

Cincinnati, Ohio, USA

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Good looking machine Peter <I look forward to the build. Keep the pictures coming. Regards, Gayl

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01-30-2017 09:14 PM  22 months agoPost 16
Peter WalesrrElite Veteran - Orlando Fl - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

So today I concentrated on the tail pushrod. I measured, calculated, measured again and computed the exact position for the hole in the fenestron tunnel. Then I got my right angle drill with a cone cutter out, carefully drilled the hole and checked it was just perfect with the CF pushrod. It was miles out! Ah well, I'm getting old and I'm allowed one mistake every now and then. 5 minutes with a round file and it was correct so I glued it a bit of the stainless drive shaft I had cut off while trimming it to size. A little extra glue spread in the oversize hole and all is filled and smooth.

Then I fitted a servo to the Vario servo mounts and checked it ran smoothly

I had previously slid another piece of tubing over the pushrod and now glued it in the hole in the former.

Then I took another look at Varios instructions. The rear brace wont fit over the servo mount, the tube is too high even though it is perfectly aligned with the tail drive, Vario wants it lower and the servo twisted. I had cut the hole in the fuse for the tail boom, exactly the right size and in line with the tail drive so I figured if I glued the tail on and glued the tail boom in place it would be strong enough. So I did!

Peter Wales
http://scalehelicopters.org

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01-31-2017 01:08 AM  22 months agoPost 17
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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Peter
Your a wild man!!!
Just cruising along and making things go where they need to be!!
Looking good..
Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

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01-31-2017 04:02 AM  22 months agoPost 18
sean911sc

rrVeteran

San Diego

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I'm positive you'll sort it out. Maybe CF tubes and clamp as on the Benzin mechanics.

So I see no full length support the tail rod just alum tube sections. Thx

William S Harris

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01-31-2017 12:17 PM  22 months agoPost 19
Peter Wales

rrElite Veteran

Orlando Fl

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Sean,

nothing else is needed at the back end. Because Vario say cut through the large tail mount tube, some rigidity is lost and the tail mount becomes flexible. I didn't cut through it and the whole assembly is rock solid...and the tail drive lines up perfectly

The CF push rod has its fibers laid straight so pushing and pulling in a straight line is unlikely to cause and bending. The two steel tubes will further prevent any bending tendencies under a heavy load.

All Align give you on the 700 is a plastic clamp and the same steel tube to fit onto the middle of the tail boom. With the antics these 3D guys get up to, they would soon be complaining if the CF rod bent or broke

Peter Wales
http://scalehelicopters.org

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01-31-2017 12:48 PM  22 months agoPost 20
chopper37

rrVeteran

NJ and Long Island

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Peter, looking great as always curious if you will be not using the rear brace part 131/50? Because its strong enough. If you are can you post a pic once installed and all lined up.

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