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Home✈️Aircraft🚁HelicopterHelicopter Main Discussion › TX setup for esc initialization and throttle.
01-06-2016 06:47 PM  4 years ago
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Wahoo

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Stuart FL

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TX setup for esc initialization and throttle.
I know this is basic stuff, but wondering how others are doing this. For simplicity lets say we are running flat throttle curves of 70%, 80%,and 90% on a Castle ESC.Throttle hold set up per mfg. What I do is set up the normal throttle curve with an extra point at 20% stick at 0 throttle.This way I can power up in normal mode (esc will initialize ) then do my flying in IU 1 &2. The problem with this is that if I forget to switch to IU 1 or 2 and go full negative pitch the motor shuts off (bad). There must be a better way. I'm using a JR11X transmitter without a "kill" switch. Is there a way to program a mix to hold throttle to 0 in one position and no effect on throttle curve in the other position of the mix?
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01-06-2016 07:17 PM  4 years ago
rcflyerheli

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Granbury, TX USA

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If you are setting up flat line throttle curves for all flight modes, N is no different than is I1 or I2, other than commanding a slower head speed.

If you do set the low stick point to 0, then yes, if you go full negative or low stick, the motor will stop. Ask me how I know?

The only thought I can provide is that if you want to spool up in N, do a curve like 0, 20, 30, 40, 50 so that you will obviously know that you are not in IU mode before you take off, so it will always prompt you to switch over to one of the IU modes. However, keeping a low headspeed during startup can lead to radical shakes if your blades aren't straight when you start the spoolup. You really need to get the blades turning quickly to let the centrifugal force straighten the blades. I used to think a really slow startup was the best, but have gotten away from that over the last several years.

Since the Castle has a slow spool up (soft start), going the separate curve in normal really isn't needed.

Are you not using the gov function in the ESC? I would recommend using either it or an external governor from your controller if it has that function available. I have my helis setup with Castle Ice and Edge ESCs and control them through my Vbar governor. So essentially I don't use a true Normal mode, but use it as the lowest head speed mode in a 3 flight mode setup.
Logo 700, Specter 700, Goblin 700, Trex 700DFC, Gaui X7, Logo 690SX, Logo 600SX; Trex 470 Trex 500
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01-11-2016 04:56 PM  4 years ago
Wahoo

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Stuart FL

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Looks like using a second throttle hold on a different switch will do what I want. I can set it's point to zero and that will initialize the esc. That way I can have the "real"throttle hold set at a value that will allow bail out during an auto.
Edit- The second throttle hold idea didn't work after all. It just added a second switch to activate throttle hold.
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01-12-2016 03:04 AM  4 years ago
Ladymagic

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South Korea

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If I am understanding your post correctly, you are asking if there is a way to program your throttle curve in Normal mode so that your motor will not cutoff at 0 stick.

Simply put, yes you can. The problem occurs when the ESC detects unsafe conditions(throttle above 20% at power up) so it will not initialize. I am not sure about CC ESCs, but my Kosmic200 ESC will allow you to turn this safety feature off although it is not recommended for obvious reasons. There are also other ways to trick your ESC into initializing too.

This is pilot's preference, but personally, I prefer having redundant ways to shut my motor down without having to remember to hit an extra switch in an emergency. I use my main cutoff at 0 stick in Normal mode with my THold as backup. This allows me to initialize my ESC and listen for the chimes so I know my ESC is functioning correctly. Also, if I bumped my stick past 20% and power my ESC, I feel better knowing my 700 will not start freaking out on me because of an oversight.

I do not feel comfortable giving suggests on how to bypass your ESC's safety features so the best suggestion I can give you here is to just learn to always be aware of what mode you are flying in.

I've accidentally flown 3D in N too, but honestly, I never had my motor cutoff so bad it caused crash. Because you can hear the motor node change and can cancel out before it gets bad. If your stick cutoff is set at 0 stick your motor should never fully cut off even when your in the wrong mode. During most 3D, you inputs should stay within 25%-50%-75% stick position, you should rarely ever need to dig all the way at the top or bottom of your stick if you are setup properly. If you are, then you probably need to adjust your swash travel and ATV.

I say keep your Stick cut off....it's much easier on your ESC during start up and definitely safer for you and the people around you.
Mellisa
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01-12-2016 05:40 PM  4 years ago
Wahoo

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Stuart FL

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I know I've seen a mix to accomplish this, but not having any luck figureing it out.
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01-12-2016 10:36 PM  4 years ago
rcflyerheli

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Granbury, TX USA

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One nice thing about Vcontrol is that it has native 2 cutoff capability, without having to try to figure out mixes. But maybe that is because it doesn't have a normal mode per se.Logo 700, Specter 700, Goblin 700, Trex 700DFC, Gaui X7, Logo 690SX, Logo 600SX; Trex 470 Trex 500
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01-12-2016 11:51 PM  4 years ago
cudaboy_71

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sacramento, ca, u.s.

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If we're talking about electric, why don't you just initalize in T/H? That's what I have done for over 10 years. With T/H set to zero, the ESC arms just fine.

I use N/I1/I2 as three different governed headspeeds. That is, N is 60% flat across, I1 is 80% flat, and I2 is 100% flat, which corresponds to 1950, 2000 and 2150RPM.

With nitro you probably want to keep N linear 0-100-100 with a 50% pitchcurve. This will allow you to throttle up to full RPMS by midstick, where you can flip in to I1 or I2 and lift off.
if it ain't broke, break it.
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