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11-29-2015 11:46 PM  34 months agoPost 1
7HVMAN

rrApprentice

Michigam

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Hi guys ,
Some times I charge my big 6S 5000 lipo and font get to use them. It takes forever to discharge them on my charger. I'd there something for sale that will pull a heavy load and stop at storage? I know the light bulbs trick but if I am not there checking I lost a battery. Anyone know where to buy something like this ? Please pm me THX a bunch

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11-30-2015 12:16 AM  34 months agoPost 2
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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These work great and are inexpensive. Although they claim they are 150W they do consume a bit less than 150W. However, multiple units can be used in parallel. One of the best and least expensive options available.

http://www.myrcmart.com/rcx-3in1-ba...ing-p-4767.html

  

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12-14-2015 02:12 PM  33 months agoPost 3
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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If you have a Cellpro PL6/8 they have regenerative discharge upto 1000W, simply power the charger off your car battery and it will discharge into the cars battery. You may need to put your cars high beam on and blower on full or maybe use the cigarette lighter a few times if discharging fast!

Or simply fly for 50% of your usual flight time to bring the pack down to storage charge.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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12-14-2015 02:54 PM  33 months agoPost 4
wrongler

rrProfessor

Brewerton, New York

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I just use the heli to discharge, put it in hoover in my drive way. Get it close and then use charger to get it to discharge.

Bill Whittaker

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12-14-2015 05:10 PM  33 months agoPost 5
jason46

rrVeteran

MI

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That RCX discharge unit is kind of neat, anybody try one? Might be good for small batteries. As mentioned regenerative discharge is the way to go.

This concerns me a bit about the RCX unit.
Don't worry about the temperature when the unit is in operation.

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12-14-2015 08:15 PM  33 months agoPost 6
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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That RCX discharge unit is kind of neat, anybody try one? Might be good for small batteries. As mentioned regenerative discharge is the way to go.
This concerns me a bit about the RCX unit.
I have two I've been using since they first came out (over a year ago) and they work great. You can use multiple units in parallel as well for increased discharge current capability.

I don't need to discharge often as I only charge at the field and charge right before I fly, but these are the easiest and most convenient discharge units around. They're cheap too.

  

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12-17-2015 07:16 AM  33 months agoPost 7
7HVMAN

rrApprentice

Michigam

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Hi guys,
Thanks for the suggestions. What I was looking for was something when I charge up all my battery and the next day it rains or for some reason I don't get to fly. something that I can also use in the winter to do a cycle here and there. I one who won't won't leave them charged more than a day.

Here what I got

http://wsdeans.com/products/discharger/index.html

I use to make my own using coat hanger back in the RC car Racing day but for the cost of this one I just bought it. What I will do is take a multi charger plugs the ones that have all the different fittings for different battery ends and use that. I can also plug in my Hyperion battery checker on the balance lead and watch when they get to storage voltage and just unplug them and finish off on charger if needed, This should work fast too and I need that.

Thanks again all

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12-17-2015 09:33 AM  33 months agoPost 8
Jerry K

rrKey Veteran

Houston Area

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These work great and are inexpensive. Although they claim they are 150W they do consume a bit less than 150W. However, multiple units can be used in parallel. One of the best and least expensive options available.
http://www.myrcmart.com/rcx-3in1-ba...ing-p-4767.html
Those Halogen bulbs can also be slightly dangerous. I remember there being a warning not to touch them with bare hands due to the body oils getting on the glass with the high temps they can explode. Then seeing them being tossed around on the counter tops that these demos are being filmed on. The first video at least mounted them on a piece of wood. The last guy couldn't even unwrap the battery that was being tested.

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12-17-2015 11:20 AM  33 months agoPost 9
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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Hopefully those watching the videos realize they were quick product demonstration videos. The base of the bulbs can be easily screwed to a piece of wood or metal.

IMHO a permanent installation for this device is mandatory.

Always wear proper PPE.

Here are a few permanent installation examples that I've seen:

  

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12-17-2015 10:07 PM  33 months agoPost 10
7HVMAN

rrApprentice

Michigam

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Yep good point. I know I made one with exposed tail lights and got burnt. That why I like the deans I showed ya. They are mounted on a alum C channel. I plan on screwing on steel screen on the open part so it's enclosed and can't touch the bulb. Also like we did on the car packs there will be a fan blowing on the battery and unit also. Thanks for the post good point.

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12-17-2015 11:06 PM  33 months agoPost 11
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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Light bulbs have ruined many a good expensive LiPo from over discharge by folks forgetting to disconnect them when they were supposed to.

The real beauty of the RCX unit is that it stops the discharge at the set storage voltage so you don't have to worry about forgetting and over discharging a pack.

Note the Deans units use 12v bulbs. The voltage of fully charged 6s LiPo is much higher.

I believe the Deans mount is brass, not aluminum. Brass is much easier to solder to than aluminum.

  

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12-18-2015 05:47 PM  33 months agoPost 12
Paul Woodcock

rrElite Veteran

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

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Hi Guys

If you have flown out some of your packs, there is an easy way out.....

Use your full packs to power your charger and charge up your discharged packs back to storage charge.

There are a few assumptions here.....the voltage of your packs is suitable to power your charger, you can solder up some adptor to join your packs and charger, you can do some math to roughly gauge if your full packs are enough to get your discharged packs from 'empty' to storage level. You also need to ensure you are not colour blind and can join red to red and black to black.

My charger can use 12 to 26v input, so 3 to 6s is good.

I use a 6 way parallel charge cable to join up to 6 full packs in parallel.

I made a double 4mm female cable to join the male 4mm banana plug on the charger to the male 4mm on the parallel charge cable.

So my 20% packs need to go to 70%, so my 100% packs will drop to 50%..... Assuming equal number of packs, but you get the idea.

Best thing ever.

Thanks to Richard ( Peak Aircraft rep ) for the brilliant idea.

Regards
Paul

Edit

Photos added & some extra info.

If I had a good hobby shop in Dubai, I would buy a 4mm id copper K&S tube and cut 2 pieces to length and put come heat shrink tube over them.

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12-18-2015 05:50 PM  33 months agoPost 13
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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Good idea Paul!

60% of the time, it works every time!

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12-18-2015 07:39 PM  33 months agoPost 14
7HVMAN

rrApprentice

Michigam

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Good idea,

My issue is when I charge all my battery and then the next day I can't fly nor will be flying for some time. All packs big small are charged. So just looking for a fast discharge. If it had a shut down at 3.8v that be great. I like the deans as its already built in. I will add a screen to the rest. Because of the amount of lights I might even be able to do multi packs at once bug will look at that later. I plan to hook up my battery checker and watch the discharge and just get close and finish on charger.

I do not ever leave my pack while discharge cycle.something you can't do ever. If your going to do that then this type of unit is not for you.

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