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HomeScaleAircraftHelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › MD500E BUILD QUESTION
10-16-2015 10:37 PM  33 months agoPost 1
BAMAGUY

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Alabama

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First post to the site but been looking around. Hope you all might be able to assist me with my MD500E build.
I've just got into the Heli world and bought a use Trex 450 fbl and just getting to forward flight circuit practice. I like the heli but don't think I'll get into the 3D stuff but I do like scale. I recently received the Align MD500E kit, blanc white version, finished fiberglass, and got the body base coats of paint on and it's coming along better than I had expected, since this is the first attempt at anything like this.
My question has to do with the landing gear struts. When all are seated they don't sit flat. To me it seems that the rear right strut needs to go in a little or the front needs to not go in as far. Any ideas of how to fix it? I was thinking about taking a dremel and cutting the strut shoulder lower on the rear one to let it go in about 1/8".

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10-18-2015 12:47 AM  33 months agoPost 2
BAMAGUY

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Alabama

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Got some more work done on the fuselage but I screwed up on the skids and installed them reverse, front in the rear and rear in the front. Oh well, sort of scale.
The wrinkled part at the door is on both sides. This is where the magnets were installed. Really should have tried to fix this because it shows up more after it is painted. Oh well, not trying to go all out scale on this one. Went cheap on this one, maybe upgrade later for better one if I like the looks in the air or better yet, like the way it handles.

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10-18-2015 05:50 AM  33 months agoPost 3
Krachdumy

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Pembroke Pines, FL.

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Hi,

I agree that the struts should be flat. Try to square off the struts with light pressure or double check the installation. Also, they may flatten out when you add the weight of the heli mechanics.

Based on pictures I see on the web of the real MD500E your struts are correct (front to back and visa-versa). Perhaps I'm not looking at your pictures too closely to notice a problem.

Scale flying can be real challenging. With scale flying you should be flying in rate mode instead of head locking mode. That's extremely challenging. Real heli's shouldn't tail slide when you turn around. So making it fly scale is very hard.

Don't worry about it being too scale. Real MD500E use 4 blades on the main shaft. Blade rotation is also counter-clockwise. The tail blades are on the right side. The Trex 450 FBL is all opposite of that. Finally, head speed should be lower with scale than 3D. But here again with a 450 size heli it's not something I will try to achieve. You cannot get that thump sound from the blades when you have small 325's blades.

Maybe next time, buy 1 of several painted scale bodies online for under $80, slide the trex 450 into it and have fun flying. Go with custom paint jobs and custom building with 600 or larger size heli's. Practice scale flying with the 450 and do scale building on larger helis.

As far as your pictures, the body is real nice. Congrats on the paint job. You even got the door hinges. It's all nicely done. I can only imagine what you can do with a large scale heli. Also, this is all about having fun. Be it flying or building. So if you are not frustrated with it, then do what you enjoy and not what I think. Even if it's on a small scale. Have fun and good luck.

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10-18-2015 12:30 PM  33 months agoPost 4
BAMAGUY

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Alabama

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Yeah, should have went with the painted fuse but I'm cheap, always looking for a deal. This one was 49 and free shipping. It said it was blanc white, I assumed it was painted white, wrong, sanded fiberglass and more than likely, like a lot of other do it yourself kits, it's probably one that didn't pass inspection for the finished kit. There are several little things that aren't just right but that's ok.
And I'm finding it a challenge to fly HH at the moment. Only been flying a couple of months. I just don't think I'll get into the 3D so I thought this would be something good to learn the curve on and practice rate mode flying.

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10-18-2015 02:32 PM  33 months agoPost 5
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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Very Nice...
Great job on the paint, to start with!!
Hoping the "tail down" doesn't cause you any problems during take off and landing... you might want to add a wire skid at the rear to help you keep the tail blades out of the lawn!! :
With scale, most starting out feel that things are "good enough" in the fuselage.. while it should be, use the most reliable equipment in there, because it is all hard to get to in there!!
Hoping you really like the way it flies and looks in the air... we need more "scale pilots " , especially with your skills!!
Have fun and stop in and post in the scale section some time., you will be able to get a lot of info over there.,,
Welcome to the "dark side"!!!
Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

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10-19-2015 01:34 AM  33 months agoPost 6
BAMAGUY

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Alabama

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Stan, thanks for the complimentary and once I get the heli in the fuselage it should sit flat. It sits flat on the bench now, with the nose attached.
I'm still gonna fix some type of wire or Allen wrench to the tail, just not sure how yet.

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10-19-2015 01:54 AM  33 months agoPost 7
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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No Problem..
Always glad to see new "scalers" getting started!!!
If the tail fin is hollow, just drill a small hole on the bottom that will just let the wire slide in.. then, while the tail fin is off the heli, push some 15 minute epoxy into the hole, then a little om the wire and then slip the wire back in.. let the fin lay on its leading edge (prop it up between a couple of wood blocks) and let it cure.. that should do it...
Also make sure your heli balances at the main shaft with everything installed..

Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

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10-19-2015 02:01 AM  33 months agoPost 8
BAMAGUY

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Alabama

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Pretty sure the tail so solid ply and it was painted white. I've got a woodshop and comfortable with drilling but this might be a bit tough. I've not measure it yet but I'm guessing 1/8" thick.

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10-19-2015 02:10 AM  33 months agoPost 9
Thumper217

rrApprentice

Slidell, LA - USA

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BAMAGUY good to see another scaler down here in the south, where in Alabama are you? I'm just outside of New Orleans so hopefully I'll get to see you at some local events. The MD500 looks good. You are smart to practice flying with the fish head until you are comfortable. I do fly in HH mode all the time and only fly scale so in my opinion it is whatever mode you are comfortable with. Stan is right about adding a tail skid and getting the CG at or just forward of the main shaft.

good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

Andrew

Thumper

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10-19-2015 02:11 AM  33 months agoPost 10
BAMAGUY

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Alabama

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I started this post before realizing it should have been put in the scale section. Could someone move it for me.
I'll be needing to get feedback from questions when I start installing the mechanics.
Thanks.

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10-19-2015 12:04 PM  33 months agoPost 11
BAMAGUY

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Alabama

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Thumper, I'm just north of Montgomery. Will be looking out for some events close.

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10-20-2015 12:31 AM  33 months agoPost 12
BAMAGUY

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Alabama

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Ok guys, here's the start of many questions, I'm sure.
The mounting blocks are set up for a frame that mounts with two screws and my frame only has one in the center.
I took two ply sections off the block because the ply I've got is the thickness of two. So that put it back to the same height as the blocks and I was able to mount them but they were too tall. I took the new ply and sanded it down to half thickness and tried it and that's were I'm at right now.
Is there a rule of thumb on how high the grips need to be above the fuselage? The issue I'm running into is with the elevator servo. It's touching the side of the fuse and the mechanics is off center. The tail boom seems to be centered and both blocks are the same height so I'm assuming I don't want to shorten the front only because I'm thinking the heli needs to stay level inside.
So another question. What's the best way to deal with this? Looking at the servo mount I don't know of another way of mounting it.
I hope this all makes sense?
Help please!

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10-20-2015 02:18 AM  33 months agoPost 13
Thumper217

rrApprentice

Slidell, LA - USA

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I'm not real familiar with the Trex 450 so if you could post some pics of the mounting points for the mechanics and the wood in the fuse that will help.

As far as the height as long as the grips clear the top of the fuse by a few MM at all pitch angles you should be OK. The mechanics do need to be centered right to left but you can play with the fore and aft angle a few degrees to help get some clearance for the servos if it helps.

Andrew

Thumper

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10-20-2015 03:07 AM  33 months agoPost 14
Krachdumy

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Pembroke Pines, FL.

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Dremel out the top as needed to get the clearance you require.

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10-20-2015 03:07 AM  33 months agoPost 15
rctrooper1

rrApprentice

Brownsville, Texas

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Bama

I had the same issue with a 450 and a AS350 fuselage. I had to Dremel / sand off a hole where the servo touched the fuselage. I then used color tape to "color" match the servo to the fuselage. Hope this makes sense. I know it's ugly to have a partial servo sticking out but I didn't see any other way.

Jz

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10-20-2015 03:37 AM  33 months agoPost 16
BAMAGUY

rrNovice

Alabama

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Ok, took a break, ate dinner then went back to take another look at it.
I took another section of ply off of both blocks and tried it again and it fit much better. I just taped it to get the fit. Now the electronics could be centered and now the servo clears or barely touches if it does. With both blocks exactly the same, the tail boom was low. I put a washer between two pieces of ply and seems to be the correct height for the tail boom. Also checked, best I can without it being rigidly mounted, the rotor blade at full pitch and it clears as well as the servo linkage.
Take a look at the pictures and see if you can tell if it looks correct.
I'll have to build new blocks but I can use these blocks for correct thickness.

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10-20-2015 03:56 AM  33 months agoPost 17
Krachdumy

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Pembroke Pines, FL.

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Looks great. Try placing the front nose on with a battery on the battery tray. The battery might sit too high. If so, you will need to make a battery tray that sits lower.

also for the final steps, consider some type of foam around the rear tail boom. Like a foam ring. It will help reduce vibration. The ring I have is about 3/4 wide. It wraps around the tail boom and it prevents the tail boom from bouncing around. I used a small piece of the gray A/C foam that you use on home A/C copper pipes.

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10-20-2015 11:46 AM  33 months agoPost 18
Thumper217

rrApprentice

Slidell, LA - USA

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That looks really good. On larger MD500s I know it's important to brace the top of the fuselage to the top of the mechanics to prevent side to side movement up near the dog house. I'm not sure if you need this on a 450 size but it couldn't hurt. Some use braces that bolt or screw to the mechanics but what I did recently on a 600 size was add some plywood formers on either side in the dog house that came close to the mechanics and then used some foam blocks attached to the mechanics to wedge them in for a tight fit. This makes installation and removal of the mechanics a little easier. The foam I used was the scrap inserts from a foam blade holder, its gives just enough but provides good support.

You might be able to use the same foam that Krachdumy recommended for the tail, which is also a great suggestion.

Andrew

Thumper

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10-20-2015 11:54 AM  33 months agoPost 19
BAMAGUY

rrNovice

Alabama

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Hey Thumper217, could you post a pic of the bracing you did? Don't quite follow you on where or how foam attaches to the electronics.

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10-20-2015 03:00 PM  33 months agoPost 20
Krachdumy

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Pembroke Pines, FL.

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Above the main gear touching the fiberglass you can see the home made upper support. I used a L shape aluminum piece with foam where it touches the fiberglass. The bracket is attached to the frame only. The bracket is on both sides.

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