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HomeAircraftHelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › gasser predator help
09-10-2015 09:17 PM  33 months agoPost 21
RM3

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Killeen, Texas - USA

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trust me when i say this...whatever is wrong with your engine....when you find it, its going to be something really really stupid simple...

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

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09-10-2015 09:23 PM  33 months agoPost 22
raptornoob

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shrewsbury. ma. u.s.a.

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one more video
i cant tell if stuck ring,,,seems all tight

Watch at YouTube

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09-10-2015 09:29 PM  33 months agoPost 23
raptornoob

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shrewsbury. ma. u.s.a.

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no idiot to small engines
i have all my lawn tools new and used run 2 cycle motors and have never had this issue,,tinker abit, and off you go,,,just cant put my finger on it
but after sugery and still have some pain......so the old brain aint working like she should......ive been back and forth with this bird, and i dont know to just get rid of it, with parts supplies at a low or none, is it worth a new motor......not really, is it worth a use......again probably not,sorry but i should have left her dead.......last crash.....never ran since i got it 2 years ago........and $$$ after $$$ it still dont

sorry....just not happy right now

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09-10-2015 10:15 PM  33 months agoPost 24
mcfast

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Quebec Quebec Canada

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Why not try the lines in the tank, mying was like yours, even with a ty-rap
It had a air leak, I found a smaller fuel line and safety wire it on the brass tube (not aty-rap), after that it run good.

P.S. sorry for the spelling or the grammar I am dyslexic!

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09-10-2015 10:28 PM  33 months agoPost 25
turboomni

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East of the Equator

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[/quote]trust me when i say this...whatever is wrong with your engine....when you find it, its going to be something really really stupid simple...[quote]

Well it is a stupid simple engine,with the most complex part being the carb itself.

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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09-11-2015 02:44 AM  33 months agoPost 26
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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Ok.... so you can't determine if the ring is stuck or not....

How about the other questions ?? What fuel and oil are you using and at what ratio ??

I know you're frustrated but we're all trying to help ....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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09-11-2015 05:34 AM  33 months agoPost 27
Dingo07

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Newport Coast, CA - USA

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The ring will not move - if it's anything like the zenoah motors I took apart in the past 15 years - there's a metal peg in the ring channel that mates with both ends of the ring

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09-11-2015 03:33 PM  33 months agoPost 28
RM3

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Killeen, Texas - USA

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i dont see how a stuck ring equates to a hot carb and inability to pump fuel...

a stuck ring tends to cause an engine to not start or run really bad as is does not allow effective compression between the piston and cylinder. the temps will rise fast on the piston.

you said it never ran the same after the crash...SO

find out whats making the engine run hot first....

like excessive driveline drag due to bad bearings, misalignment (even the crank can get misaligned), cracked frame parts, broken bolts, ignition parts broken or misaligned etc. Alot of these issues cant be seen by just looking at it... you have to do a complete teardown, to include the engine itself to check all bearings.

A friend had a vibration issue that he could not figure out,it got worse and worse with each flight...he looked at tuning, ignition, clutch, FBL settings, tail section, bearings, shaft straightness, belt tension... it turned out to be a tiny front engine mount the size of a nickel that had come loose...and he only found it after a complete teardown.

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

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09-12-2015 08:02 PM  33 months agoPost 29
Dingo07

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Newport Coast, CA - USA

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Along the lines of what RM3 already said, if I were you raptornoob I would take the engine out and put it on the bench to run at least a full tank through. If you can't get it to do that, then you know exactly where to start...

-EDIT-
after watching the videos and reading thru the entire thread again, it's clear from your last flying video that the needles are not set properly and the engine is overheating.

Start with turning out the Low needle a half a turn and the High needle a turn.
Also, what is the mixture of oil/gas you have running through the tank? There should be more smoke than what's coming out.

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09-12-2015 10:32 PM  33 months agoPost 30
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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I've asked the question about the type of gas , type of oil and gas/oil mix ratio probably twice already.... The question has fallen on deaf ears .... Maybe he'll respond to you ?? 😳

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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09-12-2015 11:31 PM  33 months agoPost 31
raptornoob

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shrewsbury. ma. u.s.a.

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32:1 and klotz oil
rctrooper1 says i"" Quote got to much smoke""

"""QUOTE Also,Dingo07 what is the mixture of oil/gas you have running through the tank? There should be more smoke than what's coming out.""

im using a KLOTZ oil 32:1 but confused.......one say to much and one say to little ???

????Start with turning out the Low needle a half a turn and the High needle a turn. ?????

right now 1 1/4 1 3/8 ?????????

so i should be 1 3/4 and 2 3/8 ??

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09-13-2015 01:10 AM  33 months agoPost 32
Dingo07

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Newport Coast, CA - USA

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Oil Mixture Chart

I use a synthetic oil from NEO called T-2 Blue

I should've started by asking you what carb do you have on it now? - I believe it's your 4th one installed. More to the point, how many needles does it have? Does it have a L M and H? I'm guessing the needles are set based on the recommended settings from the manual, with compensation for the relative humidity where you live?

-EDIT-
If the oil you're using is a castor base, it's not "fully" synthetic. If you live in a cold area, say at night it drops below 50, a castor based oil is a bad idea - it has been known to separate from the fuel, or fall out of solution.

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09-13-2015 01:21 AM  33 months agoPost 33
BeltFedBrowning

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Kansas City

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so i should be 1 3/4 and 2 3/8
That would be way too rich. My gassers smoke a bit. Maybe richen the low needle a bit,

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09-13-2015 01:50 AM  33 months agoPost 34
raptornoob

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shrewsbury. ma. u.s.a.

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carb
walbro wt643 has L and H needles

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09-13-2015 01:59 AM  33 months agoPost 35
Dingo07

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Newport Coast, CA - USA

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Have you followed these guidelines on Page 4?

if not, that's where I would start, with the main blades off so that you can go W.O.T (Wide Open Throttle)

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09-13-2015 04:09 AM  33 months agoPost 36
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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raptornoob, how long is your fuel tank ? in your 2nd video you said your fuel pickup line IN the tank is 6 inches long, sounds long to me, that pickup line should be a bit shorter than the inside of the tank

Jim
Buzz Buzz Buzz

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09-13-2015 04:16 AM  33 months agoPost 37
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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BTW, it sounds like when your engine get's hot you are getting an air leak at the cab or manifold, then at that you are loosing your air pulse to the fuel pump, I guess you will find out when you get your new parts

Jim
Buzz Buzz Buzz

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09-13-2015 04:30 AM  33 months agoPost 38
turboomni

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East of the Equator

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Have you followed these guidelines on Page 4?
Sorry to add more muck to this thread but on page four it says to set for a smooth idle etc. Fine then it tells you the settings for full throttle with a high needle setting at 1 /1/4 and adjust it a WOT. The problem here is when hovering you are between the low and high needles.If you have a smooth idle and then hover you may be lean at hover even if the high and low needles are correct for either extreme throttle positions' . I would start richer on the low and kick up the throttle trim to make it idle half decently and then hover. This is the tricky area ,,hovering as it is in between both needles. You would think a good idle would be good for everything else but it is not. There is alot of load when hovering around and a chain saw etc is loaded at close to full throttle and a heli at hover has a good load at a middle throttle opening and is why the idle quality has to be sacrificed somewhat to ensure at mid throttle it is rich enough to handle the load without leaning out.

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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09-13-2015 04:37 AM  33 months agoPost 39
BeltFedBrowning

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Kansas City

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Well said. There is no reason to take off the blades and set for WOT. There wouldn't be enough of a load for it to be accurate anyway.

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09-13-2015 04:51 AM  33 months agoPost 40
Dingo07

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Newport Coast, CA - USA

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Both True ^^ - however, without checking WOT you don't know if the H needle is set lean or not. and being that the Heli's flight will be between 55-80% throttle most of the time, that's roughly 70% H needle

Current Carb Needle Settings:
L = 1-1/4 open
H = 1-3/8 open

Factory Needle Settings:
L = 1-1/4 open
H = 1-1/4 open

@raptornoob - Open L needle to 1-1/2 Open and H needle to 1-3/4 Open and report back please

-EDIT-
If the bird doesn't go thru a full tank of gas with these new needle setting, it's not the carb "needle settings"

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