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HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › Servo heat
09-07-2015 07:36 PM  34 months agoPost 1
Felino

rrApprentice

Mexico city

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I have been flying a FBL heli for the fisrt time. Just one galon used.
It´s a Vibe 50 Next with Rotor Tech 640mm mains at 170g LiFe 6.6v 2300mah Rx battery

Since the and engine is new, and I lack FBL knowlege, I have been hovering mostly throughout one galon. It hovers just fine and I find it is easier to hover than a flybared heli.

The problem is that the 3 cyclic servos get hot. Not just warm but hot. I even changed the cyclic servos from Futaba S9551 to MKS BLS665 with no luck. The MKS servos get hot as much as the S9551.

Am I doing something wrong?
What should I look for?
Is it normal to have hot cyclic servos on a FBL heli?

I have already inspected the swash linkages and no one is tight but all loose.
Flying/hovering is ok even with the servos getting hot.

The FBL unit is a Futaba CGY750. AIL and ELEV gyro gains at 50%

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09-08-2015 12:58 AM  33 months agoPost 2
JayL

rrVeteran

Leesburg GA

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I wonder if the gains are a little high could make the servos run warm. I know the servos on a FBL machine do run a warmer that a FB machine do to the fbl unit working the servos. How hot is hot my bk servos get warm especially on a hot day.

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09-08-2015 01:06 AM  33 months agoPost 3
Dan Minick

rrKey Veteran

Columbus, WI

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If you were to take the servo horn off the servo does the entire assembley move easily? With a bell crank system like that there could be a number of things binding

Team Synergy, Team FBL Rotors-------if its not broke...it will be!

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09-08-2015 01:30 AM  33 months agoPost 4
wjvail

rrKey Veteran

Meridian, Mississippi

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What is your power usage per flight? If you fly 3 flights, how many mAH do you put back in? On my non-FBL helis I use about 250 mAh per flight on my FBL helis I use about 500.

Bill

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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09-08-2015 01:42 AM  33 months agoPost 5
Felino

rrApprentice

Mexico city

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I have already slide the swash plate by hand and it is smooth and no effort is needed. I will check the bellcranks tonight.

I can fly 3 full tanks out of a 2300mah Rx pack that is about 700mah each flight. With the hot servos it is expected to have a high power consumption.

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09-08-2015 01:55 AM  33 months agoPost 6
crflyer

rrApprentice

Maine

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In the CGY 750 manual check step 2 on page 10, "Swash basic settings" make sure the setting matches your servos.

http://manuals.hobbico.com/fut/cgy750-manual.pdf

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09-08-2015 03:35 AM  33 months agoPost 7
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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This is what I want you to do:

Using the CIU-2 and GY-Link software, save your gyro file and email it to me. I need to look at it. Something is quite wrong here. 700mah/flight is about twice what it should be.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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09-17-2015 03:24 AM  33 months agoPost 8
Felino

rrApprentice

Mexico city

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I ended up using the CGY750 on a Rave 90 instead of the Vibe with succes.
There is no servo heat on any cyclic servo after hovering.
Couldn't be better!!

I should say that I tried some autos when the Vibe 50 had the CGY750 and I didn't like it. I couln't figure out how is it posible that a heli with no flybar and heavier blades autos so horrible. I think I was doing something wrong with the cyclic stick. I did notice it had too much forward speed. Perhaps too much cyclic response for my fingers.

After decreasing some CYC.Rate I tried some autos with the Rave using a FBL unit for the very first time and I can say autos are a joy with the Rave!!
Very easy indeed with a feather like feeling!!
Besides the Rave doesn't show too much forward speed while doing autos.

Now I'm starting to enjoy this FBL stuff!!

Happy autos!!

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09-17-2015 06:16 PM  33 months agoPost 9
Flyin for Jesus

rrVeteran

Troy, IL. 62294

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Cyclic movements will scrub HS during an auto... Hot servos and the comment about using about twice as much Rx battery sounds like possibly too high cyclic gain.
I guess 50 gain works for the 90 size heli... Sounds like its all worked out.

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05-04-2016 07:57 PM  26 months agoPost 10
Felino

rrApprentice

Mexico city

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Solved.
The problem is frame releted and not Gyro related.
I knew that there was some strong vibration coming from somewhere.
This vibration was not visible by plain sight since I could see the frame not shaking while hovering. There was no foam in the tank after hovering.
I removed the whole tail boom and main rotor with no luck. Servos still get hot even with no load after 3 minutes on the ground with 30% throttle.
I checked fan hub runout and it was .001 Not bad.
While I turned the engine slowly, by using a had drill, I could see some slight wobble on the clutch bell but not all the time. Some times it was gone and sometimes it came back.
Then I realized that the vibration could only came from one place.
I removed the she start shaft made it spin on a hand drill and there it was. The infamous wobble was indeed coming from the start shaft.
Last monday I did another test with a start shaft from another heli with great success. After 3 minutes on the ground the servos were barely warm.
I took several months to find out this issue but I finaly made it.

Here is when I understand that assumption is the mother of all f***k ups.
I was stubborn because I thought that the start shaft was true since it came out from a new kit and the heli has never been crashed.

I wonder who has the habit of checking shafts runout while building a new kit.
Almost no one I think.

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05-04-2016 09:06 PM  26 months agoPost 11
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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The building skill set you describe is sadly becoming a lost art. For the very vast majority of models out there, checking run outs and so forth is no longer the mandate that it used to be. Unfortunately, when a problem creeps into the model, it'll cause fits unless you know how to look for it and how to solve it. I don't miss dial indicating drivelines, but I also would not trade for anything the knowledge I have on how to trouble shoot and resolve these issues.

Thanks for the informative post.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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05-04-2016 10:03 PM  26 months agoPost 12
ICUR1-2

rrElite Veteran

Ottawa, Ontario

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I wonder who has the habit of checking shafts runout while building a new kit.
Almost no one I think.
that would have got allot of folks, especially me thinking JR is suppose to be higher quality than most kits.
It would have made me curse a lil bit trying to figure it out no matter what kit it was.
While I was building a new swift carbon 550 a few years ago I decided to balance everything like the RAY does in his guides. (http://www.rayshelitech.com/ )
Found one of the main grips weighed 5 grams less than the other

Nothing more satisfying than doing a maiden and everything goes perfectly from the beginning.

spending time, paying attention

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05-05-2016 12:23 AM  26 months agoPost 13
Felino

rrApprentice

Mexico city

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Checking out grip weight is another habit I lack.
Even though I got a small scale at home.

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05-05-2016 12:27 AM  25 months agoPost 14
Felino

rrApprentice

Mexico city

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At some point JR moved making kits from Japan to Taiwan.
I think that something "had to go wrong" in the process.

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05-05-2016 05:47 PM  25 months agoPost 15
Four Stroker

rrElite Veteran

Atlanta

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This is not a skill or knowledge based hobby anymore.

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