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HomeRC & PowerAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › Magnum center glide bearing on OS105
09-02-2015 03:07 PM  3 years agoPost 1
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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So I have a 105 with a center glide bearing and never been 100% happy with the power, I recently replaced the piston and ring and only noticed a slight increase in power (the liner is fine and score free). When I had the motor apart with piston, con rod and liner removed I pressed down on the crank through the bore with my finger and noticed the crank wasn't easy to turn like ide expect. My question is, does the center glide bearing reduce power due to the extra friction? Also does the engine run hotter due to the extra friction? I know the crank will run on a thin film of oil but there must be some extra friction right?

I'm just not getting the same power as I had with my OS91HZR 3D Speed motor.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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09-02-2015 03:26 PM  3 years agoPost 2
don s

rrElite Veteran

Chesapeake, VA

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I didn't run mine with a bearing, so I can't give a comparison. However, my crank spins freely, my motor doesn't run hot, and I have no shortage of power.

Does the crank have some gunk build up on it?

E820, Raptor G4N, X50F/E, E620, Forza 450, and some planks.

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09-02-2015 04:46 PM  3 years agoPost 3
utahbob

rrVeteran

St. George Utah

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centerglide break-in
My flyin buddy and I use the c-glide in our os 55's and he has one in his 91hz..we both have noticed that it takes awile for the motor to run it's best when the brg. is new..like 2-3 gallons of fuel; after that they run &run &run..we like 'em. how long has yours been in service?

I do a great decending funnel!

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09-02-2015 05:42 PM  3 years agoPost 4
Todd74

rrApprentice

PA, USA

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I have an OS55 with the centerglide and it makes great power, very comparable to one with a standard bearing. But, as stated above, this engine has quite a bit of time on it, and since I acquired it used, I can't say if there was any break-in period where the engine made less power.

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09-02-2015 05:58 PM  3 years agoPost 5
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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I too bought my 105 used so im not sure how many gallons it has had, ide say I've put at least 3 through it though. What's involved in removing one? Same as removing the rear bearing?

60% of the time, it works every time!

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09-02-2015 10:20 PM  3 years agoPost 6
Andy from Sandy

rrElite Veteran

Bedfordshire, UK

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What's involved in removing one? Same as removing the rear bearing?
Yes, in the oven or use a heat gun of some sort.

I know a guy who has even successfully moved the bearing to another engine.

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09-03-2015 04:32 AM  3 years agoPost 7
Steve Graham

rrApprentice

Denver, CO

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Hmmm,

I've spoken with Buzz about the process for installing these. He actually line bores the case to the proper dimensions for the bearing and then presses it into place. While it might come out with heat I don't think it's designed to and would question the proper fit were it moved to an unprepared engine? There are also oil bosses drilled in it. I don't know if their specific orientation is important?

I'll try anything once though

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09-03-2015 06:02 AM  3 years agoPost 8
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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He actually line bores the case to the proper dimensions for the bearing
I hear that, but that doesn't mean that the Glide Bearing's Center Bore is centered with the front bearing. the first thing I would do is leave the Glide in the case and pull the crank and check/even replace the front bearing, then install the crank back in and see how the crank turns

Jim
Buzz Buzz Buzz

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09-03-2015 05:40 PM  3 years agoPost 9
utahbob

rrVeteran

St. George Utah

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check your crank
I would check the crank for a worn spot if it's not running concentric and putin a drag on the motor; I bet he has a fixture that locates on the front brg. for the boring operation..so it has to be in line; how's your tuning skills? take no offense..some of these motors are hard to learn how to get 'em just right; I loved the OS50 hyper..it was so easy!

I do a great decending funnel!

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09-08-2015 03:06 PM  3 years agoPost 10
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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Thought ide found the 'lack of power' culprit for a minute, the guy who had the engine before had overtightened the carb retaining screw distorting the plastic sleave and splitting one of the orings on the carb clamps so I thought it must be sucking in air from there. I replaced the oring and put the carb back on with some Zap Goo to make sure it was sealed but no change.

Header tank is always full so it's getting pressurized fuel.

I've had the carb barrel and needles out and can't see anything unusual.

The ONLY thing that is unusual is that i've always needed the idle screw fully rich to get a good idle without it sounding lean and so it doesn't just quite when I do the pinch test.

I can get it running rich with ok power then go in 2-3 clicks and think yeah it's getting there then a couple of clicks later it starts well but then goes lean! I know for a fact these engines aren't THAT hard to tune!

Can anyone tell me it's DEFINITELY not the center glide bearing causing the problem?

Don't get me wrong the power is ok and as long as you back off now and then to get the revs back up it's fine and for the none or mild 3Ders you'd think it's fine. I just know this engine has more to give.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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09-08-2015 03:27 PM  3 years agoPost 11
don s

rrElite Veteran

Chesapeake, VA

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Definitely not the center glide? Only way to know is to throw a bearing in there.

My 105 with the center glide is happy. Very good power even on 15%, which I'm increasing to 30% for "commonality" sake.

E820, Raptor G4N, X50F/E, E620, Forza 450, and some planks.

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09-09-2015 01:22 PM  3 years agoPost 12
Tyler

rrElite Veteran

Chicagoland area

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My engines idle better, run cool, and make slightly more power with center glide. They constantly run smoother and stay smooth over time.

What are you using for a clunk? Recently witnessed two guys suffering OS engine power and mixture problems until they installed fresh bubbles clunks. For some reasons they old clunks starved the engines for fuel.

Enjoy things that money can buy IF you don't lose the things money can't buy.

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09-09-2015 02:19 PM  3 years agoPost 13
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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I'm using a Lynx MOAS clunk, fuel is flowing through fine. I've just installed an SKF bearing and will be testing it later.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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09-09-2015 06:27 PM  3 years agoPost 14
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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Engine is now producing good power, sounds smoother and running cooler! The mid needed richening quite a bit but I tried that with the magnum bearing and it bogged down. Spinning the crank without con rod and piston installed was much more free with a regular bearing than with the magnum bearing. I've always had good luck making rear bearings last so don't really need the magnum center glide bearing anyway. Never had any problems with other os engines, I trust os to produce amazing engines with no upgrades necessary.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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09-10-2015 03:27 AM  3 years agoPost 15
LaDon

rrVeteran

Fort Dodge .Ia

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We have had a few guys try the center glide around here and nobody has them any more. They all complained the power was down and none liked them. Kept me from trying them I know that. Bad thing is I never messed with any of them but took their word for it.

Team Jr

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09-15-2015 10:38 PM  3 years agoPost 16
marc8090

rrElite Veteran

Long Island, N.Y.

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To the OP, what nitro percentage? What head shims? The going from rich to lean in a couple clicks I experienced on 30% nitro, with too little head shim, and the "new" (smaller hole) high speed needle holder. It's much better on 30% with the "old" one.

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09-16-2015 02:17 PM  3 years agoPost 17
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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20% with the stock head shim, 0.1mm? Recently tried 25% with no extra shim and it seems fine. I'm not sure what needle holder is in there.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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09-16-2015 09:46 PM  3 years agoPost 18
marc8090

rrElite Veteran

Long Island, N.Y.

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A 1.5mm allen driver will fit through the center hole of the old one, and won't fit through the smaller hole of the new one.

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10-02-2015 11:12 AM  36 months agoPost 19
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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To the OP, what nitro percentage? What head shims? The going from rich to lean in a couple clicks I experienced on 30% nitro, with too little head shim,
I've just added a 0.1mm shim to make 0.3mm in total on 25% fuel and the engine is even smoother and easier to tune! Good call sir!

60% of the time, it works every time!

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