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07-31-2017 12:28 PM  14 months agoPost 21
Anton123

rrApprentice

Canada

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I just picked up 3ft of wire with lead ends. Going to run it from the motor mount to the tail case. Hoping it will do the trick.. Will keep you posted.

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08-10-2017 05:37 AM  14 months agoPost 22
drdot

rrElite Veteran

So. California, Orange County.

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Fwiw...

From many years of tail belt experience....After discovering silicone shock oil as a lubricant and static eliminator for belt tail helis I have never had an issue....I intuit that the friction reduction minimizes the static generation....

John.

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08-10-2017 12:17 PM  14 months agoPost 23
Anton123

rrApprentice

Canada

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Great, will also give that a try.

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08-10-2017 06:52 PM  14 months agoPost 24
rcflyerheli

rrKey Veteran

Granbury, TX USA

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I tried to find the specific link that references Georges from Scorpion regarding this issue, but could not locate it handily. What I do recall was that he does not recommend grounding the path to the motor mount, because if the static charge builds up enough it can go through the motor windings, back into the ESC and shut it down/damage it.

Their recommendation is to use anti static spray on the belt. I got a can of what they recommend, but am not positive how much to apply. Does one just spray a mist onto the belt, or do we saturate the belt and everything around it?

I don't think we have much of a static issue in the summer here in the DFW area due to the humidity, and I generally don't fly much during the winter when it is particularly dry and cold outside, so I can't say that I've ever seen any issues, but now having 4 belt drive helis, I do want to be careful.

Logo 700, Specter 700, Goblin 700, Trex 700DFC, Gaui X7, Logo 690SX, Logo 600SX; Trex 470 Trex 500
Amain Team Rep

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09-20-2017 01:32 PM  13 months agoPost 25
Anton123

rrApprentice

Canada

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Hello again,

I am truly stumped.. I have tried everything from a new setup to using another radio. And testing for continuity... Would my gov gain have something to do with this? It is all set at the standard 600 model via V-Bar Neo V-Link. 12cell 120 YGE V-gov.. 22pin Ratio 9:4:1

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09-22-2017 03:17 AM  12 months agoPost 26
old nitroman

rrVeteran

Naples florida

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I have a gobby 380 stretched to 420, and a new 420 running Ikon,all bk servos. I do use a separate 10 amp bec. Make sure your using the right tape under the FBL unit.

E5s and E7se,and a 766, Roban bell 222 800 superscale,450 bell 4 bladed head,gobby 380and 420 ,180cfx

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09-22-2017 02:44 PM  12 months agoPost 27
Anton123

rrApprentice

Canada

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Thanks.... I am using the tape the Neo came with.

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09-22-2017 02:49 PM  12 months agoPost 28
Ronald Thomas

rrMaster

Gainesville, Fl, USA

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Please call Mikadousa tech support today so we can talk... 1-844-4MIKADO ext 2...10-5 est

Team MikadoUSA 480XXTreme, 550SX, 600SX, 700XXTreme, 800XXTreme!!

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10-23-2017 12:56 PM  11 months agoPost 29
Anton123

rrApprentice

Canada

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Just a little update, I first want to thank Ronald for taking the time in giving me a helping hand. He spent over an hour of his time helping me via phone. But the problem did not lie within my Neo or
V-Control. As I put the Neo from my 570 into a Mini Comet, both my radio and Neo work as they should Will have to ground the 570 properly and install the original V-bar. But loving this Mini
I appreciate everyones Help.. Happy Flying Will keep you posted on the 570...

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10-23-2017 01:39 PM  11 months agoPost 30
ICUR1-2

rrElite Veteran

Ottawa, Ontario

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Goto to your grocery store and buy some static guard . Maybe wrap or line the inside of your tail boom with a Bounce sheet.

Seriously if your seeing ESD in the dark while running , you got issues .

spending time, paying attention

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10-23-2017 09:05 PM  11 months agoPost 31
Anton123

rrApprentice

Canada

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Thanks ICUR1-2..

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10-31-2017 02:34 PM  11 months agoPost 32
icanfly

rrElite Veteran

ontario

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belt tension? should be tight enough that the belt feels stiff when trying to bend with a finger but not rock solid it feels stiff as a board. Recheck tension after a half dozen flights, get belt guides on the heli whenever possible. I personally would insulate the belt pathways with masking tape along the boom inside where the belt runs nearest, folding it over at the belts entry points and ca'ing at the ends so as the tape will not get ripped out by the belt in action. Masking tape is paper and will be an insulator. If the belt is too loose during operation it will slap the boom sides, tighten the belt and use guides when possible. You can creep the belt tight by loosening one side, moving back and tightening, and then the other side alternately while pulling back on the tail unit as you should be able to leverage the the tail unit out from the boom somehow to get proper tension on the belt.

I've got a 380 stretched to 420 with side plates at the tail unit and the pinch in the booms shape 10cm up from the back end has to be cleared by some trickery setting the tail pulley to the right side more. I added one guide pulley to the left belt uptake side to take the question of belt rubbing the boom out completely, I'm probably going to take out the tensioner side and put a fixed guide given it's set belt pathway, allowing me to control how much belt tension the heli should have. Pulley guide tensioner's springs can be weak not providing enough belt tension and I don't need to worry about that so out it goes.

The return side going back to the tail unit is not under pulley tension as much as the uptake left side in a cw turning rotor and will loosen and possibly flop against the boom in operation especially if it is loosely tensioned while resting.

Think of an automobile fan belt, same tension nearly. "common sense"? hilarious.

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10-31-2017 03:14 PM  11 months agoPost 33
Anton123

rrApprentice

Canada

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Thanks icanfly, The tension is as tight as a guitar string. Will look into further more next season, as the 570 is put away due to cold weather here in Canada. And up for sale what ever comes first...

Will keep you all posted

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10-31-2017 03:30 PM  11 months agoPost 34
ICUR1-2

rrElite Veteran

Ottawa, Ontario

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if you're going to store over the winter loosen the belt tension, it might keep you from chasing a tail wag in the spring

spending time, paying attention

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10-31-2017 08:35 PM  11 months agoPost 35
Anton123

rrApprentice

Canada

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Good tip ICUR I just did it on all my Three G's...

Happy flying Gents!

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07-19-2018 03:40 AM  89 days agoPost 36
Anton123

rrApprentice

Canada

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Well after almost a year and a half of testing and replacing mostly each and every component.. I finally found out what was causing the issue. With the hands on help of Eugene from Rotor Quest..
So basically the swash was binding on the main shaft.. Not allowing full pitch.. Only under load and not on the table... With the friction.. heat and load along with the high RPM caused the metal to expand.. Causing it to bind and stick.. Also one of the radius bearing was ceased up... Not sure how as I replaced them along with the thrust bearing from the beginning of this issue. The fix was to sand the main shaft and lubricant and replaced the radius with everything running smooth.. Tested and bang... Fixed
(I ended up replacing the swash and main shaft)
Hope this post can help others and thanks to any help or feedback that was given..

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07-19-2018 01:55 PM  88 days agoPost 37
ICUR1-2

rrElite Veteran

Ottawa, Ontario

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Problem solved
Good to hear

I recently experienced something similar.
My tail rotor would lock up only under load.
From now on I am testing without blades at almost full throttle to check for vibes and binding.

spending time, paying attention

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07-20-2018 03:14 AM  88 days agoPost 38
Anton123

rrApprentice

Canada

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Thanks (: Agreed

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