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Mikado
Logo 600 › To all heli flyiers
06-06-2015 02:27 AM  3 years agoPost 1
robheli12

rrNovice

Portland Tn

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I been flying helis for a long time. Had a lot of brands and always said,"one day I will try a Logo". Well I did this year. It is the best heli ever. I did the other brands, did the up grades bought into a lot of junk. I am sold on Logo 600. If you on the fence about getting one, just get one and it will be the last. I loved my 600 3D so much, I just got the new 600SX. Just a thought to Mikado: If I only knew how great they are,I would have gotten one long time ago. But its hard to test fly one. I been at a lot of heli fun flys, If a Company had thier heli,set up on a buddy box so buyers could try it before they got one, I think a lot would convert over. Curtis Youngblood did buddy box at IRCHA, with his 3D quad and I loved the oppitunty to try it. I know its easier said then done so in the mean time, I tell everyone at my field how great it is. When I fly it, people stop to watch it, it been said many times by watches,on how effortless it flys. Any way, great job Mikado.

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06-06-2015 03:41 AM  3 years agoPost 2
wrongler

rrProfessor

Brewerton, New York

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What took you so long to try one?

Bill Whittaker

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06-06-2015 04:16 AM  3 years agoPost 3
DemetriusUSN

rrVeteran

Virginia Beach, Va USA

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I'll find out real soon,I picked up a Logo 500 stretched. I'm waiting for my new pinion to come in and I'm setting up my mini vbar this weekend. So I'm really looking forward to getting her in the air.

Minicopter Diabolo 800, Minicopter Triabolo 700, Minicopter Diabolo 700, Minicopter 550,Compass 6hvu, Devil 380

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06-06-2015 04:28 AM  3 years agoPost 4
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

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I just got the new 600SX.
Great heli....love my 600SXs...

Did you get the new V2?....mine are just the V1s

What servos and FBL, etc....are you using?

Before I got my first 600SX, was flying a 450 sized heli, and I just couldn't see it well at "1 mistake high" altitude or at distance.

When I first flew my 600SX, it was like night and day....wow...

I could see it properly and was more comfortable....

And it "cruises like a Mercedes and maneuvers like a Porsche"...

Enjoy

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06-06-2015 04:38 AM  3 years agoPost 5
robheli12

rrNovice

Portland Tn

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I think it was my last try to get that passion back. I was burned out and my buddy said get another bird, just dont get what you been flying(out of respect,not saying the brand),try something different. When I first flew it, I knew, had a koolaid grin.

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06-06-2015 04:55 AM  3 years agoPost 6
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

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Looks nice, Rob

And it has the "dayglo orange" fin...easy to see.

The 700/800XX don't yet have the "dayglo" fins....so I had to add "Monokote" stipes on the tailboom....not as good....

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06-06-2015 05:10 AM  3 years agoPost 7
robheli12

rrNovice

Portland Tn

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It came with the colors, I got it used and he did a great job with the colors. This is my new baby, 600SX.It will be awhile to get funds going to finish.

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06-06-2015 05:12 AM  3 years agoPost 8
robheli12

rrNovice

Portland Tn

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Dayglo orange, thanks. I was worndering. I couldnt find it

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06-06-2015 05:15 AM  3 years agoPost 9
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

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That's the 600SX hiding...that's what my canopies look like.

What servos are you planning on using?

Is it the 600SX V2?

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06-06-2015 12:55 PM  3 years agoPost 10
robheli12

rrNovice

Portland Tn

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The one in back is the old 600 3D. The one in front is the SX V2. Im using the Promodeler HV S74245BL,$79. I read reviews and even posted mine, they will be in both birds. I got the Talon 120. 600 3D is on 10s and v2 will be 12s. The 10s flys so great, I really wanted V2 to be 10s but I have 4 6s pulse batteries that need a 12s bird

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06-07-2015 02:12 AM  3 years agoPost 11
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

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One tip I would haven't offered is that it's a heck of a lot easier to mount the elevator and rudder servo in the frame before joining the two frame halves.

But it looks like you've joined the halves.

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06-07-2015 02:16 AM  3 years agoPost 12
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

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Another thing I do if to order some extra Mikado "edge guard" and use it to line the swash cutout in the canopy. Using CA.

This will prevent paint chipping/cracks developing from repeated removal and installation of the canopy when changing batt packs.

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06-07-2015 04:02 AM  3 years agoPost 13
robheli12

rrNovice

Portland Tn

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That a good ideal,going to do it. I had hell of a time with motor install,gear mess etc. I think I got it right

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06-07-2015 05:00 AM  3 years agoPost 14
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

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I think I got it right
The manual recommends that the pinion should be "set" on the motor shaft first...with all the motor shaft/main shaft counter bearing assemblies.

Then, shims are used to align everything...

I shim the main rotor gear to properly align with the motor pinion.

I usually purchase an extra shim set.....both .5mm and .3mm(or is it .2mm)....the manual refers to an "initial" starting reference, I've found.

Also, use those extra shims to ensure alignment of the counter bearing assemblies with the motor shaft...and to eliminate any visible up/down "slop".

Have always had to assemble/re-assemble a few times...changing shims...to get it the way I like it.

Which reminds me....

With regards to the swash/grip link lengths....

These are recommendations for an "initial" length depending upon servos...so expect variations for the head setup.

I am a big fan of "turnbuckles" vs. the standard steel "1T" stock links.

FBL Rotors has "drop in" TB assemblies specifically designed and approved for Mikado helis by Mikado....

http://www.fblrotors.com/

While it seems expensive, I can get the head setup "dead on"...

Also, FBL has titanium rudder pushrod end links....no plastic endlink/stud assy....the plastic is a weak link...ask me how I know...

And on the tail unit assy, you might need to do some minor shimming to get the idler pulley better aligned.

Almost forgot again...

If the tail pitch slider seems to "hang" around mid tail pitch...don't worry....you shim the ball post with a thin shim...and that will solve this issue.

Please don't read anything negative into the above....it's just what I learned...have built 6 600SX V1s....lol....and they're fantastic helis....even got a 700 and 800XX...

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06-07-2015 06:53 AM  3 years agoPost 15
Heli Fanatix

rrVeteran

Fountain Valley, CA

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I actually came to this realization today aswell too. I went through about 24 birds and have narrowed it down to my:

- JR Forza 700
- Logo 500SE on 7S / 600 swinging 660mm on 12S

And my Goblin 630 that I have setup to swing bigger blades and shave 2lbs off stock weight. The Goblin 630 was suppose to combine both the Logo & Forza 700 but it was not meant to be. I wanted to have the CF and fuselage styling with the disc load of Logo's.

My Goblin's Tail authority, agility and disc loading was 3rd best ... Behind the Logo & Forza Respectively. I'm feeling the Logo 600 SE with 660mm is the ticket. Mikado Logo's power to weight is Legendary and Smoothness is a class of its own.

BTW
Can't "weight" till the new Mikado 700 with plastic frame debuts.

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06-07-2015 03:07 PM  3 years agoPost 16
smittylube

rrVeteran

Santa Cruz, CA

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The 'smoothness' can also be measured and with the spectrum analyzer. Another win for mikado.

RPM is your friend..................................until you crash

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06-07-2015 10:34 PM  3 years agoPost 17
robheli12

rrNovice

Portland Tn

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so eengineer, the motor shims are just to align main gear center to pinion center? I was not to sure at the time but i did have to put together,take apart,put together etc intil it lined up. And I got the mesh good, it seemed almost pre set because of the 3rd bearing block thing. The idler pulley is the bearing riding the tail belt? I can fly hard 3D and built many helis but I feel like a newbe on this one and thanks for the help.

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06-08-2015 04:21 AM  3 years agoPost 18
Heli Fanatix

rrVeteran

Fountain Valley, CA

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If you want to align the herringbone pinion with the herringbone main gear with the CB Bearing, here is what I suggest:
- find yourself some M3 bolts long enough to mount motor w/o CB
- the key is to mount the motor and center pinion to main gear
- first make sure you have components in this order
* lower main shaft bearing
* 10mm ID shim (doesn't matter thickness)
* tail drive pulley and pin
* 10mm ID shim
* main gear
* 10mm ID shim (how many depends on what it takes to remove play)
* I use a another upper shaft collar to lock everything in place since it would fall out without CB support to keep it in

Now here is the fun part:
- put loctite on the pinion set screw
- tighten it just enough on motor shaft flat spot so it barely slides up/down
- use those short M3 bolts to tighten motor
- make sure motor is tight up against motor plate
- any room will result in play (resulting not aligning)when you actually torque motor down
- than you want to spin the main gear in correct direction to center pinion
- you can use a regular 1.5m hex but it's tricky since you would have to keep on spinning to get the set screw to face the front of the frame
- with a 1.5m ball hex, you can tighten from the side
- I would spin and let it come to a stop naturally
- if you try to position it rotating by rotating one teeth at a time, the pinion would not center naturally. You are using centripetal force to center the pinion.
- gently snug pinion screw & carefully take out the motor
- since you can't fully torque pinion in this position
- make sure you don't bump & move pinion
- torque pinion screw properly once it's out
- now go back and tighten the motor ( you will need to find high spot)
- you want to position the pinion to main with just a hair of gap
- rototate through entire main gear teeth
- feel for tighteness of mesh
- gear mesh is extremely important
- the 6mm motor shaft and MOD 1 make it less suspectable to stripping
- but correct mesh will increase bearing life and reduce noise
- once you have found the high spot
- install CB and all shims on main shaft to elminate play
- set mesh
- it should have a slight wiggle .. Just a hair gap
- I personally don't use CB and run MOD 7 even on my Logo 600SE with slightly smaller than 690mm on 14S. It's my preference.

It's best to align the pinion to the main shaft by setting it on the motor shaft. You should see the pinion 1mm above the main gear once it's correctly set. Will be a long night trying to shim the main shaft to the pinion height.

Hope this helps. Now the tail is another episode ... LOL. Glad you admit your knowledge of Logo's. It's got quirks but once resolved ... Will be fantastic! I had issues with:
- tail belt slipping off
- tail box snapping off
- control rod snapping off
- tail box rotating

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06-09-2015 01:25 AM  3 years agoPost 19
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

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The idler pulley is the bearing riding the tail belt?
There's 3 of them....two are in the rear of the frame sides...the 3rd is at the tail rotor assy.

With the 2 forward idlers, after pushing the pulley shaft into the frame I add a touch of JB Quik Weld in the slot. This is to prevent the shaft from spinning in the slot if the bearing gets rough or tries to "seize". The resulting friction if it spins will melt the plastic.

With the 3rd one in the back, I have had to shim slightly to get that pulley exactly centered with the belt.

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06-09-2015 03:49 AM  3 years agoPost 20
robheli12

rrNovice

Portland Tn

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great write up both of you. im going to re do it, just to make sure and take both advice. Thanks. I got one side questionn. I ready want a grab and go heli bag for my bird, simplify loading all my junk that goes with it. does the Align 600 bag fit a logo 600 or should i get align 700 bag? anyone use them?

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