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HomeAircraftHelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersEngines › Changing oils change settings?
05-27-2015 02:34 AM  3 years agoPost 1
mustang67ford

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Central Pennsylvania

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Will changing from non-synthetic to synthetic in a g240rc cause readjustmet of the needles? Most likely going to go with pennzoil and assuming a 32:1 ratio.

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05-27-2015 02:52 AM  3 years agoPost 2
turboomni

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East of the Equator

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Only one way to find out. I have never run the ashless I did it the hard way,,,synthetic from the beginning.

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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05-27-2015 03:48 AM  3 years agoPost 3
don s

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Chesapeake, VA

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I've read on the gasser plank forums that making the switch can gunk up your plumbing (which you would just switch out). I run non-synth on everything, so I don't have first hand experience.

E820, Raptor G4N, X50F/E, E620, Forza 450, and some planks.

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05-27-2015 04:16 AM  3 years agoPost 4
fastflyer20

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N. Tonawanda, NY

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You should not notice a difference right away, but the engine is still in the break in process. Needles will have to be adjusted eventually if you change oils or not as everything seats in.

I like to run easy on the first tank when switching from non-syn to syn.

Tom
CAUTION - my posts are based on my experiences, yours may be different.

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05-27-2015 04:18 AM  3 years agoPost 5
turboomni

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East of the Equator

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I am not doubting what you say but does it gunk the carb,,the lines or what and why? I have never heard of this. Fuel lines do get hard and unusable after a time...just wondering.

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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05-27-2015 04:22 AM  3 years agoPost 6
don s

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Chesapeake, VA

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Not sure, could be one of those internet myths.

Not the same as Tygon going hard.

E820, Raptor G4N, X50F/E, E620, Forza 450, and some planks.

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05-27-2015 11:16 AM  3 years agoPost 7
rcnut

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Rockford, Illinois

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Will changing from non-synthetic to synthetic in a g240rc cause readjustmet of the needles?
No, you may notice a slight increase in power (rpm) with the change. The thing to remember, your motor is still breaking in. The synthetic oil will cause less friction allowing the motor to run better. After the first tank/flight on synthetic, the motor, tank and lines will be flushed of the ashless oil. The piston top will start cleaning the small deposits left by the ashless oil...the muffler will take a little longer, more area to clean.
I've read on the gasser plank forums that making the switch can gunk up your plumbing (which you would just switch out).
This is a myth, plain and simple. I've broke-in several motors (helis & plankers) and not once did any of them have clogged line or a clogged felt clunk. If this was true, there would be massive warnings on all product using 2 stroke motors. This rumor is a great marketing ploy, getting people to buy more of "their" product. As cheap as clunks and lines are, on a large scale, it adds up fast.

And if you stop and think about this, everyone would also need to rebuild or replace the carburetor. More money to be had for those that have no knowledge of carburetor repairs/replacing them.

Bottom line...you will be fine, just change to the synthetic, run a tank or two through it, and continue adjusting the needles as the motor requires!

Team Miniature Aircraft
"I love the smell of Nitro in the morning!"
...Citizen 654!

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05-27-2015 02:44 PM  3 years agoPost 8
don s

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Chesapeake, VA

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Kind of like the ethanol myth.

E820, Raptor G4N, X50F/E, E620, Forza 450, and some planks.

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05-27-2015 03:49 PM  3 years agoPost 9
turboomni

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East of the Equator

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Kind of like the ethanol myth.
If you are referring to the ethanol in gas myth. I have heard guys swearing up and down ethanol in gas ruins engines, carb parts etc. I guess I believe them but this hasn't been my experience with my car or heli engines. Although I do drain the tank and purge the carb well after use.

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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05-27-2015 04:58 PM  3 years agoPost 10
don s

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Chesapeake, VA

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My engines don't know the difference, but some engines must.

E820, Raptor G4N, X50F/E, E620, Forza 450, and some planks.

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05-30-2015 09:20 PM  3 years agoPost 11
BrunoBL

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Pomerode, SC, Brazil -26.71, -49.17

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If you are referring to the ethanol in gas myth. I have heard guys swearing up and down ethanol in gas ruins engines, carb parts etc.
I guess it depends how much ethanol is mixed in the gas. I once asked Zenoah about it and they said it was OK up to 10% mix, above that it would be bad for the engine.


...Bruno.
Spectra G on Avgas 100LL, Jewel generator
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05-30-2015 10:32 PM  3 years agoPost 12
RM3

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Killeen, Texas - USA

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their claim that it ruins engines is cause ethanol is hydrophillic (water-loving) therefore it tends to absorb water vapor and since at higher temps the ethanol and gasoline evaporate, the only thing left is the water which of course causes rust.

Now I have been running 10% stuff from the gas station with all my lawn equipment as well over 6 years and 2 years or more in my gasser helis with no detectable issues.

So if the enthanol is an issue... its nopt having an issue with premix fuels or smaller engines...

maybe they just having issues with older cars is my guess.

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

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05-31-2015 03:15 AM  3 years agoPost 13
turboomni

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East of the Equator

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maybe they just having issues with older cars is my guess.
A long time ago in the 80's I would occasionally get a frozen fuel line in my automobile. I would pour in the dry gas [alcohol] to prevent it. In those days many times it was methanol which is deadly to rubber lines. The more expensive dry gas was Ethanol which is much kinder to rubber lines and gaskets than methanol. Methanol was the alcohol of choice for direct injection into turbo charged engines not ethanol at the time. As I understand it methanol has better qualities to prevent detonation. I used methanol injection directly into the high pressure side of the intake run after the intercooler to basically cool the charge and raise the effective octane of pump premium to raise boost pressure safely. In the last 10 years or so I have never heard of anyone having a frozen fuel line. I guess because gas today already has drygas in it.

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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06-02-2015 03:51 AM  3 years agoPost 14
GREYEAGLE

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Flat Land's

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To stay on the subject of Lubrication :

Be aware of one thing when using synthetics - All of them

They are so good - in lubrication performance, they can actually MASK a problem !

Hence it is EASY to cross the line. One of the common problem's in industry is to switch over then neglect proper PM procedures, or if their is a Notorious problem - Use the really high dollar stuff -

Does the Problem go away ?? Nope you masked it ! It's their you just get to ignore it a bit longer.

When using synthetic's have tremendous respect and do NOT get Careless

I use em ALL for specific application where dictated

It's why you can pour the high mileage in a OTR truck with just filter changes but in a Tractor in the Dirt you cannot justify the cost.

greyeagle

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06-02-2015 04:19 AM  3 years agoPost 15
turboomni

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East of the Equator

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Be aware of one thing when using synthetics - All of them

They are so good - in lubrication performance, they can actually MASK a problem !
I would agree but I think the big problem is people running any type oil at too low a ratio. Run Amsoil 100 to 1 at 100 to 1? I don't think so!! I run Penzoil Marine at 32/1 and Bergen recommended an even higher ratio at least for break in. I have never had a problem with this ratio with full synthetic oil. A heli especially if just hovering or constant load tooling around is loading the engine all the time and perhaps not in it's best power band and or cooling system efficiency. A 3D guy would load and unload the engine usually at a high rpm and maybe a high enough rpm that the fan is working at it's peak efficiency. From my experience run 32 to 1 and run it on the rich side and dial her in. The extra oil could save you .Synthetic or not..And also keep the engine in it's power band ,,do not lug the engine as usually the fan is designed to work best in the engine's power band. If it is not in it's power band change the head speed or the gear ratio to suit your style and to keep the engine happy.

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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06-03-2015 04:14 AM  3 years agoPost 16
mustang67ford

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Central Pennsylvania

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Hope to get the first run of synthetic this weekend. Might richen the low a 16th.

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06-03-2015 07:58 PM  3 years agoPost 17
turboomni

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East of the Equator

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Good luck to you Mustang . I'm sure everything will be fine for you.

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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06-06-2015 02:26 PM  3 years agoPost 18
mustang67ford

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Central Pennsylvania

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Richened the low end up a 16th, puts me at about 1 3/16 on the low needle. Put 1 tank of the synthetic thru it so far. Seemed to run better but maybe that is just mental. Its strange to look at the primer bubble and see this bluish haze. I am chasing a gyro issue and narrowing it down. I'll get another post going, but i have always noticed when i do a right hand bank, the tail begins to ossilate; just on a faster right hand turn. I did a slow climb-out today and no issue. When i do a hard climb-out the tail shakes. Thinking i have a gain issue. Gy520 in HH.

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06-06-2015 03:06 PM  3 years agoPost 19
mcfast

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Quebec Quebec Canada

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Delete

P.S. sorry for the spelling or the grammar I am dyslexic!

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06-06-2015 03:29 PM  3 years agoPost 20
turboomni

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East of the Equator

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"For me going to a full
synthetic is just a wast of money, these motors are low stress, only making 2 or
3 HP at around 13000 RPM with is not much! a semi-synthetic oil for [B]air cool
motors, is more then enough, oid"
You may be correct mcfast but I would argue that these engines are not lightly loaded. Also their cooling leaves alot to be desired compared to an airplane. That poor heli engine hovering around is constantly loaded ,carrying alot of weight and many times not in it's power band and the fan may not be in it's best cooling rpms. It is not allowed to unload very much. So I don't think it is an easy environment especially when you add heat and humidity to the equation. Based on this I use full synthetic and the fact that Al at Hanson who built my 30cc puh says to use specifically Penzoil Marine full Synthetic. I'm sure other oil's would work and work well enough. For me the added expense is not even worth thinking about.

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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