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HomeOff Topics › MECHANICS??? for 2001 Camry
05-29-2015 07:06 PM  3 years agoPost 21
Pistol Pete

rrProfessor

Seffner, FL

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Brilliant! Thanks.

I can fly helis but working on cars is foreign to me. Been lucky in that I've never had to. Must be because I drive "made in japan" since I was a teenager.

I did own a 95 Ford Ranger, automatic, 6-cyl w/extra cabin before this camry but my son totaled that one. It had a mazda engine...go figure.

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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05-29-2015 07:11 PM  3 years agoPost 22
Lotus7

rrNovice

Cape Town, South Africa

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FWIW, I can move pulleys by hand indicating nothing is seized...hopefully.
Which pulleys ? Surely you can't move crank or camshaft pulleys by hand in any case ?
Again , not trying to diagnose , sometimes you get lucky with overheating , no seizure but it does get tight and loosens up when cooled down . The starter will then turn it over quite easily
Sometimes , when it overheats much but not seize, the piston rings may collapse under the heat.
I once cracked a water header tank on my Volvo V50 T5 - realised a bit of loss op power and stopped . Filled it up at a friendly private residence and went straight to get a new tank fitted - then did a cylinder leakdown test , no collapsed rings and sold the car some 50 000 K's later , never another problem

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05-29-2015 07:52 PM  3 years agoPost 23
shawmcky

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Isle of Wight,United Kingdom

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A piece of angled steel would do the job of holding crank if a snug fit between teeth.

Team- unbiased opinion.K.I.S.S principle upheld here

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05-29-2015 10:59 PM  3 years agoPost 24
Pistol Pete

rrProfessor

Seffner, FL

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Good news...I was able to remove pulley without removing starter.

I used a breaker bar against car body frame and just gave the starter a quick short burst with the ignition key and VOILA!

Bolt became loose and out it came by hand as well as the pulley. Did not need a pulley puller. I was a little afraid this bolt could have broken but I took my chance. Timing belt was not over camshaft pulley so no worries there.

Come to find out toyota dealers have a special tool just for this pulley bolt removal.

Once I removed the lower dust cover, all the balls bearings from the water pump came out. Im sure it was every one of them. Luckily no cogs were damage.

Timing belt is in good condition BUT its being replaced regardless. Just $43 dollars worth of peace of mind.

Its an oily mess in there. I will be replacing most oil pump gasget and seals. I pretty much was at the mercy of the toyota dealer parts rep. Whatever he told me I needed, I got and will replace.

I need to clean all the oily mess before removing water pump as I dont want to take a chance of anything getting in the water cooling system.

Thanks for feedback. I'm done for today and tomorrow should be D-day of truth. Its now officially beer thirty. I earned it. Cheers!

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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05-30-2015 07:44 AM  3 years agoPost 25
Nick Jones

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anderson

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nice find

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05-30-2015 07:46 AM  3 years agoPost 26
Nick Jones

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anderson

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http://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKT-003...keywords=TKT003

that is a really good oe kit to use comes with everything you need we use them all the time.

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05-30-2015 08:25 AM  3 years agoPost 27
shawmcky

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Isle of Wight,United Kingdom

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The tried and tested breaker bar method,just how i would have done it,but scares some folks!

Team- unbiased opinion.K.I.S.S principle upheld here

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05-30-2015 07:44 PM  3 years agoPost 28
Pistol Pete

rrProfessor

Seffner, FL

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Saturday Post...update.

Alright...from the toyota forum I got this PDF

Althought it does not match exactly it does help "some".

Took several hours and plenty of rags but I have the oily sludge mostly clean. I did not use degreaser to keep driveway stain free...so far.

Figured I would get a quicker response here while I take a small break.

The crankshaft timing pulley came out nice and easy by hand as well. (vs using two screwdrivers as per the PDF how to)

Where Im presently stuck is in removing the seal. Looking at the new one, its hard and the only rubbery area is the inside diameter that touches crankshaft.

How does it get removed? Do I use a sharp pointed tool and just prick it out?

Is there anything behind it that could get damaged? Its a hollow seal. Like a U channel type.

I have yet to remove the oil pump pulley in order to remove the plate and also replace that gasket behind this plate. For lack of a better description.

I should be able to remove the smaller donut seal behind the oil pump pulley once plate is removed. Figured this one could be pushed out from behind the plate.

Slow progress but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Oh yeah...no damage to any pulleys or cogs considering ball bearings coming out of water pump.

NickJones...thanks but I already have all the those parts in hand. I went OEM.

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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05-30-2015 07:57 PM  3 years agoPost 29
Riq

rrKey Veteran

ND

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http://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-35556.html

If you can get a screwdriver or anything in there to pry/destroy the seal out your gtg.(obviously be careful of the shaft surface.)

Is your seal leaking or just preventative?

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05-30-2015 08:41 PM  3 years agoPost 30
Pistol Pete

rrProfessor

Seffner, FL

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No clue if leaking. I guess the only way to find out is with engine running(?).

So lets say its preventative, given I had to clean an oily mess, one of those seals must be leaking. So Im replacing what I can while I have access to it.

DIAGRAM link

Replacing 15100B and C and 15101A

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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05-30-2015 09:22 PM  3 years agoPost 31
Riq

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ND

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Right on, easy enough to do it now.

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05-31-2015 04:11 AM  3 years agoPost 32
stail

rrNovice

Sydney -Australia

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When reinstalling seal, be sure to coat sealing surface with oil where crankshaft pulley mates.

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06-02-2015 01:37 PM  3 years agoPost 33
Riq

rrKey Veteran

ND

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Hows progress coming?

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06-02-2015 05:19 PM  3 years agoPost 34
Pistol Pete

rrProfessor

Seffner, FL

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Update
Good and bad. More like slooooow progress but progress none the less.

I was able to remove the remaing two pulleys yesterday with my homemade "special tool".

Given small space between camshaft pulley and wheel well, had to notch wood and use shorter socket. Its poplar vs pine. Denser wood.

Picked up a double hook seal puller yesterday from auto parts store. Practically the same as the link you provided from HF (which has bad reviews) but not same design. Probably the one they attempted to copy with their crappy handle.

Anyways, the hook is pretty thick and I don't see how to get it in between rubber seal and shaft without the preoccupation of marring the shaft. Then there's the long handle and with engine in place, it seems to be a no go. Maybe if engine was out on a stand but I'm clueless.

There seems to be a better designed one called a "blind seal puller" by LISLE. Great reviews, user friendly and smaller which can be used in engine bay. Youtube videos demostrate how easy it is.

There are other videos as well with "how-to" by center punching, drilling, screwing, prying or slide hammer but once again, can't drill anything with engine in place. Otherwise I would have gone that route. Maybe if I had one of those 90 degree drill type but still.

So after removing pulleys and being stuck in progress, I proceeded to remove valve cover and work in that area. Two of the nuts for the valve cover I was able to remove by hand. Not a good thing.

I cleaned out very little carbon deposits and removed what I hope was most of it. Im sure filter and oil pan will catch the smallest bits. I will eventually drop oil pan to further clean whatever but not until I get this baby going first. Tedious to clean out valve areas with small bits of rags and hemostats. I felt like a was performing brain surgery.

Also cleaned out whatever oil had pooled up on header from leaking from the rear of valve cover gasket. That explained the burnt oil smell after long runs and the strange looks from neighbors. Maybe it's something else.

Today I'm replacing the valve cover gasket as well as ordering this blind seal puller. Of all the tools I own, nothing has this "spoon" like hook. Maybe a paint can lid opener comes close but it also may be too thick. Given, I'm guessing as I don't own one but just may go to the Depot to find out prior to ordering tool. If it looks like it could work I will pick up two.

I was tempted to just loosen the two nuts for the camshaft clamp which would facilitate that seal removal but most likely will just wait for the blind seal tool instead (if the paint can tool quest is fruitless) given I will be stuck with the crankshaft seal anyways. I do own a torque wrench but not clue what torque pressure to fasten back those nuts. Might as well leave them alone.

Thanks all for time and tips.

I will chime back eventually.

Oh yeah, by the way. I also tried removing seals with this little hook recommended by a young one at auto store and had no luck.

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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06-02-2015 07:28 PM  3 years agoPost 35
shawmcky

rrElite Veteran

Isle of Wight,United Kingdom

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http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecme....2-2.2L-134ci-S4

Team- unbiased opinion.K.I.S.S principle upheld here

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06-02-2015 07:29 PM  3 years agoPost 36
shawmcky

rrElite Veteran

Isle of Wight,United Kingdom

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Remove the camshaft cap noting position of seal to make job easier!

Team- unbiased opinion.K.I.S.S principle upheld here

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06-02-2015 08:08 PM  3 years agoPost 37
Pistol Pete

rrProfessor

Seffner, FL

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Happy-Happy, Joy-Joy

Watch at YouTube

Alright guys, my idea to use a paint can opener paid off. I just can't wipe the grin off my face. Had all three seals off in less than 5 minutes.

They have a bucket full at the paint counter at the depot waiting for free. Less than a 10 minute drive for me. Saved $15 ordering the "purposed" tool.

Of course, had to use other end of key just to celebrate it.

Thanks for link as well. Saved for future reference.

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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06-02-2015 08:28 PM  3 years agoPost 38
shawmcky

rrElite Veteran

Isle of Wight,United Kingdom

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Good man!

Team- unbiased opinion.K.I.S.S principle upheld here

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06-09-2015 07:07 PM  3 years agoPost 39
Pistol Pete

rrProfessor

Seffner, FL

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Well thanks all for the tips and links. She started and was running as before I took anything apart.

While still on the jacks, placed transmision in gear and spun the wheels to apply brakes and get rid of some disk rust before taking her for a spin.

Low and behold the left shaft is bent. Good grief.

This definitely explains why I believed engine mounts needed replacing as engine was just doing the boogie dance. Going to replace lower mounts anyways given that this most likely finalize what was left of them.

Back to the drawing board.

Hopefully nothing in transmission suffered.

This should be easier and quicker than all I the work Ive done so far.

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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06-09-2015 07:25 PM  3 years agoPost 40
BeltFedBrowning

rrKey Veteran

Kansas City

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While it will not hurt to replace the axle, I don't see how you woould bend it short of dropping the car off the edge of the Grand Canyon. Is the inner CV joint wore out making it look like the axle is bent?

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