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HomeScale✈️AircraftScale HeliScale Helicopter Main Discussion Docs  Vario Bell 412 electric
06-04-2015 01:01 AM  4 years ago
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Roger that, rock on
Barry
All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!
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07-05-2015 02:34 PM  4 years ago
goodhunting

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Slovenia ... somewhere in Europe

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My buddy Saso came trough one more time....
He fabricated the motor mount that enables the clutch and the gearing to spin the head as I first envisioned it. This setup puts the COG of the mechanics, just 1cm behind the main shaft and what is more important.... it clears the cabin for details as I desired...

gh

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07-05-2015 02:54 PM  4 years ago
Mojave

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Nice set up, well done!
Barry
All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!
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07-23-2015 03:56 PM  4 years ago
goodhunting

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so after a brief vacation with the family the work continues...

I dry fitted the wooden parts to determine how I can make the most of the cabin "usable" for details.
Vario's wooden parts are made to fit the skyfox mechanics in the fuselage. Hence the raised part, which is also tilted forward to replicate the real helicopter.

I plan to remove the raised portion to clear more space for the motor. Eventually I will close the mechanic with a wooden wall just like in the real one.

I plan to place the batteries under the wooden floor so this "storage space" is next in the planning process...

gh
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08-02-2015 07:56 PM  4 years ago
goodhunting

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OK so here is my next question...
I will be using SK720 blue controller ... and currently my mechanic setup has two options. I can fit short or long ball links to the swash plate... BUT only to the sides... front and aft have to be short to work as needed.

So if I put long ball links the push rods would be vertical... BUT the swash would form an elliptical shape instead of a circle.

My question is... would this be a problem for the FBL controller?
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08-02-2015 09:41 PM  4 years ago
Double E

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Atlanta, GA

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I'm sure someone can provide a more technical answer but I'm pretty sure you want to try and keep everything the same on the swash. When I say the same I mean the linkages, the ball links, everything. Not to say the helicopter won't fly but it and the stabilization systems were designed to work with a proper mechanical setup and you would be deviating from that if you mixed and matched different ball links and linkages to the swash.
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08-04-2015 06:03 AM  4 years ago
goodhunting

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thank you for the input. Yes I will keep all my ball links equal... and not play with the fancy setup...
not worth the risk

gh
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08-09-2015 05:57 PM  4 years ago
goodhunting

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been busy lately getting my Trex 700 stretched to 800... I fitted a Vbar with extreme software and am practicing my big air....
the weather is cooperating and I am using the time to practice.

Vario's package should be in tomorrow and I'll start on the tail part....

gh
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08-10-2015 08:47 PM  4 years ago
goodhunting

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Got the bits in the mail today... and fixed the mechanics...

tomorrow I'll tackle the linkages and make it operational. ESC is in the mail and when it comes I'll start to break in the mechanics. I have to fix the tail and then hopefully a maiden before the season ends...

gh

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08-12-2015 08:52 AM  4 years ago
goodhunting

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another step of this journey...

from this...

to this...

gh
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08-12-2015 12:02 PM  4 years ago
garyl

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taxachussetts

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You realy need to pack the gear box with the vario 10/36 grease (Fett).

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08-12-2015 01:37 PM  4 years ago
Double E

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Atlanta, GA

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Goodhunting,

One quick question. What sort of frame structure have you developed to transfer the weight of the mechanics down to the skids? I don't see what connects the wood former at the top of the fuselage to the bottom frame structure?
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08-13-2015 07:20 AM  4 years ago
goodhunting

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I packed the gearbox with grease... muygen grease for plastic gears... should be enough there to last a decent amount of time.

Of all those that did this project before me... how did you fix the gearbox in the fuselage?
If I epoxy it in there, there will be no way to access it and service it in the future... is there an alternative to this?

as far as woodwork... I am in the process of making the formers that would firmly connect the top woordwork with the bottom parts in at least four places. Currenlty have drawings of the formers and as soon as I cut them out and start dryfitting them in I will post pictures to get the proof of concept before I do any weird thing...
but time is scarce at the moment..

gh
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08-13-2015 12:32 PM  4 years ago
garyl

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taxachussetts

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You should have a 1058/6 that the gear box mounts to. Then that mounts to a wood former in the tail with bolts.

You will need one of these tools 11/82 to bolt it in as shown.

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08-13-2015 02:03 PM  4 years ago
goodhunting

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I guess that must be the "larger" version... 1:6 scale for turbine...

mine is the "smaller" version... 1:7 for methanol or electric mechanics...

so there are the pictures of where I am at this point. I will have to relocate the tail a bit so that there will be space for the pushrod to clear the mechanical parts and work as it should...

I have the piece you speak about and the tail has a FG molding in the rear to fir the gearbox... BUT if I glue it in permanently I won't be able to check gears and relube if needed...

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08-13-2015 10:55 PM  4 years ago
garyl

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taxachussetts

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There should be a wood former that it bolts to,check all your wood work for it. If not make one and put blind nuts in it. Mount the wood work to the plastic mount with blind nuts then fit the assembly to the fuselage and glue in just the wood part. That is how all Vario fuselages are done with this gear box.

Here is a link to the manual for this fuselage. It is item #20 on the wood work diagram. http://www.vario-helicopter.net/fil...l/2130_4130.pdf
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08-14-2015 06:05 AM  4 years ago
goodhunting

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OK I get it now

thank you

gh
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08-23-2015 06:55 PM  4 years ago
goodhunting

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Slovenia ... somewhere in Europe

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More progress... but taking baby steps...

got some reinforced plywood, which is really strong... but easily cut with a saw... Now I only have hand held tools but it worked...

Next step is the bottom flooring which will house the batteries... I want to place the electronics (gyro and receiver) on top but this is still open for discussion.

Thanks to a forum member I now have the right radar dome and will be shaping it to fit the nose...

gh

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09-01-2015 05:45 AM  4 years ago
goodhunting

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I made the wood structure to hold the floor in place... and sectioned the flooring to hide and store the electronic components.

I intend to store the batteries under the flooring but now have to figure out how big it really needs to be. The largest Packs I have are 5500mah and I am contemplating going bigger on those...

been thinking though... if I should cut out the smaller cabin doors... it would be more scale like but it would make all the cabin access easier...
hmmm decisions decisions...

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10-15-2015 06:01 PM  4 years ago
goodhunting

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Slovenia ... somewhere in Europe

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Well peer pressure sure suc** and I caved in. Decided to replace the wood with vitroplast. Gained a few grams and a straight firm surface. Next I need to make the openings for batteries and the rest of the goodies that will sit under the flooring.

Gh

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