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HomeScaleAircraftScale HeliScale Helicopter Main Discussion Docs  Airwolf Turbine - My Build
03-27-2015 08:21 PM  3 years agoPost 21
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Removable tail boom
Mark,

Thanks for your input on the removable tail boom. I do appreciate it. My removable tail boom must be "convenient and easy" as it will need to be removed for transport and storage, so every time it goes to the field, the boom will have to be removed and installed. This bird is being built to fly and fly alot. It wont be sitting around collecting dust. So it must self align repeatedly and be super easy to bolt and unbolt with easy access to the fasteners and necessary electrical connections. I dont want to spend a long time at the field installing the tail boom only to have enough time for one flight.

My "solution" is difficult for me to explain, so my master plan was to build a card stock mock up, take pics or a vid and post it up to have all the people that are smarter than me have a looksy and get everyone's opinion before I started gluing stuff together. Regarding the loads, although the heli is heavy, I dont think the loads will be "extreme". The momentum of the tail is pretty low, as I wont be whipping it around at 3D speeds. Regardless, my design distributes the entire load across a large portion of the main fuse floor (not where the tail boom is normally glued to the back end of the fuse), which will be reinforced with carbon fiber cloth. Gotta wait for parts from Germany, then I can get some mock ups made and get some opinions/suggestions on my solution.

Steve

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03-27-2015 08:22 PM  3 years agoPost 22
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Calil,

Hehe! Patience my friend. I'm anxious too. You know the drill...work, wife, house stuff, etc.

Steve

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03-27-2015 10:02 PM  3 years agoPost 23
hrc37

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Derry, PA

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Doing a mock-up is a great idea Steve....it's just that most guys (including myself sometimes) get too anxious and impatient to do mock-ups....but that is the way to go.

Mark

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03-28-2015 10:10 PM  3 years agoPost 24
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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OK, the BUILD has OFFICIALLY started!!! YEA!!!!!!!


Yes that is a fuse in my bathtub!!! Sorry no "special" pics. Maybe you can find those on "Fuses Gone Wild" later in the week. Wife was none too pleased. Finally had a bath with a Lady after 17 years of marriage! LOL! Got all the fiberglass parts washed in Dawn dish detergent and dried off. Acetone and IPA wipe down once the weather warms up so I can do that outside.

Also, started to organize the mechanics.....

And gave the hardware a nice isopropyl alcohol bath to get it ready for threadlocker....

Will start dry fitting the mechanics together tomorrow.

Steve

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03-29-2015 02:26 AM  3 years agoPost 25
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Mechanics have been dry assembled to check for fitment. Was missing one 3x8 washer head screw, but I had plenty of those laying around, so no biggie. Also put the first coat of dry gear lube on the gears. So far so good.

Steve

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03-29-2015 02:33 AM  3 years agoPost 26
Grimracer

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Eau Claire WI

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looking forward to the build.

Grim

Michael J Zaborowski

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03-29-2015 03:06 PM  3 years agoPost 27
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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OK. Building my first Vario tail box (Vario #1003/80). Do I shim the output shaft for zero end play, or should I leave about 0.1mm end play for expansion and such? I can achieve either and still have proper gear mesh and smooth operation, just not sure if I should shim all the end play out or not. Thanks!!!

Steve

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03-29-2015 04:43 PM  3 years agoPost 28
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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There shouldn't be zero gear lash. These gears are not always perfect from the factory, so sometimes you have to play with the gear lash to get everything running smoothly. This is kinda hard to explain and the build sheet does a very poor job of explaining it. In my best words, "it's a feel thing". What you want is for the gears to run smooth, with no drag, chatter or ratcheting. Turn the input shaft, if the gears run freely, then hit a tight spot at any point in the rotation, (they aren't running true)you may want to return them for replacement. I also use a high temp clinging bearing grease in my (metal)tail boxes, not lithium grease. After assembly (with grease), I run the box with my air drill motor to run it in. Then I open the box and inspect it, looking for any funny wear pattern. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but I have yet to lose a heli to a failed tail gearbox failure.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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03-29-2015 05:37 PM  3 years agoPost 29
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Thanks Barry. Not a lot of work at all. Time well spent IMO. Sure beats a post crash inspection!!

Started working on the tail. The tail box comes in a fancy smancy carry case. This apparently makes the tail box more better.


Again with the alcohol bath for the hardware.....

Doing some fine filing on the pitch links for a perfect fit and butter smooth operation....

Lubing the thrust bearings. I know, this is riveting stuff!!!

And a perfectly smooth tail grip/slider assembly....

Steve

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03-29-2015 05:41 PM  3 years agoPost 30
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Also took care of one teeny problem with the mechanics. There was not enough room for the frame spacer to clear the washer.......

A little dremel action on the spacer and 23.269 seconds (I timed it, so you can take that info to the bank. ) later we had clearance Clarence....

Steve

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03-30-2015 12:29 AM  3 years agoPost 31
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Not a critique, just FYI here. A smaller diameter washer or clipping 1 side off the existing washer would have worked fine too. That would have left the footprint of your stand off the same.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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03-30-2015 03:25 PM  3 years agoPost 32
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Not a critique, just FYI here. A smaller diameter washer or clipping 1 side off the existing washer would have worked fine too. That would have left the footprint of your stand off the same.
NO CRITIQUING ALLOWED!!!! LOL!

Ya, had a couple of options for sure. The stand off doesnt really do anything. The washer is on a bearing support block with a slotted hole for adjustment, so I didnt really want to cut the washer. And truth be known, modifying the washer would have required me getting out the grinder, which is buried in the garage and the dremel was at arms length so it was more convenient. Lazy man's solution!!

Steve

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03-30-2015 07:28 PM  3 years agoPost 33
206 pilot

rrVeteran

,Long Island,

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No lazy man solutions lol, you never know something minor could cost you your machine, take your time and do it right. I'm just saying lol....Rich

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03-30-2015 09:29 PM  3 years agoPost 34
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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you never know something minor could cost you your machine, take your time and do it right.
ABSOLUTELY!!! Excellent advice!

Steve

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04-05-2015 03:23 PM  3 years agoPost 35
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Finally found some time to build the tail gearbox.

Here she is all laid out ready for final assembly. Went through quite a few "dry assemblies" to get the shimming just right. It was time well spent as the gears mesh perfectly and run SOOOOOOPER smooth. I am quite pleased with the result......

Applying some Locktite 609 to the shafts......

I then found some old Rasberry jam in the pantry and thought "DANG!! This stuff will make a GREAT gear lube!!" So we packed some in the box. (Or maybe it is Mobil 1 synthetic bearing grease, I always get the two mixed up.)

Never been a big fan of locktite on brass, and even though I used locktite here on the tail pitch slider, I also applied a little hysol for extra insurance....

And a complete tail gearbox ready to go. It turned out really nice. Very smooth and slop free....

Steve

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04-05-2015 03:52 PM  3 years agoPost 36
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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I have a question about the Vario turbine mechanics. Specifically the auto rotation hub.

Here is a pic of the hub out of the one way bearings. You can see a hardened washer that is glued or pressed or something (it doesnt move or come off) onto the aluminum hub. This washer rides up against the one way bearing housing. This doesnt seem right to me. If power is decoupled from the main gear, this hub rotates with the mainshaft and the that washer would be rubbing/grinding on the oneway housing. I would think that there should be a thrust washer or something to allow free rotation here. As I see it, every time I go to shut down the turbine, the main blades will continue to spin down and this washer will be grinding against the one way bearing housing. The instructions and exploded view do not show any bearing or spacer in this location. What am I am I missing???

Thanks.

Steve

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04-05-2015 07:05 PM  3 years agoPost 37
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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I could be wrong, but that appears to be an Oil Lite bronze bushing, which is self lubricating and is designed for that type of use. I believe it actually sits on the protruding edge of the one way bearing shell, not the aluminum hub. You can verify this with a feeler gauge (between the hub and bushing), or you can take a sharpie magic marker and color the aluminum hub where the bushing sits, then spin it and see if any of the marker rubs off. My big Benzin mechs (R22, Bell 47G3) are similar in design, but don't have the twin helical gear set.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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04-06-2015 02:13 AM  3 years agoPost 38
hrc37

rrApprentice

Derry, PA

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locktite on brass
I use Tamiya Thread Lock quite a bit. It's safe to use on anything including all types of plastic and I've found it to be as strong as the standard blue stuff. But it's hard to find in the states now because I believe that Tamiya will not tell the government what it's made of. So I now buy mine on Ebay. Mark

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04-11-2015 10:02 PM  3 years agoPost 39
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Been slow going. Work and house chores and yard stuff now that it is getting to be Spring. I HATE spreading mulch!!!!! UGH!!!

Anyway, started working on the retract housings. Not being able to leave well enough alone, and not liking the Vario method of mounting the retracts in the housings, I got to modifying.

Here is a pic of the stock Vario housing. The retract pivot shafts simply ride in the fiberglass or in bushing. The holes pre-drilled in the housings by Vario are woefully inaccurate and misaligned.

I decided I wanted the pivot shafts to ride in bearings. So I rigged up my redneck drill press, measured twice, said 3 hail marry's and went to town...

Here is a pic showing at just how far off the Vario pre-drilled hole was from being square and orthogonal to the opposite side (the Vario hole is the small hole....

And bearings being hysoled in place.....

Let those cure for a day and then I will sand and prep the "wheel wells" for white paint to match the full size.

Also, cause I was bored, decided to add some braid to the retract servo leads. Looks so pretty. And aint nobody gonna be able to see it when installed. Ahh, tis the life of a model builder.......

Steve

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04-19-2015 05:28 PM  3 years agoPost 40
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Well, it's that time of year where outdoor stuff is starting to take precedent, so progress has been a little slow going. Been doing some flying, been doing some yard work, and starting the master bathroom renovation (JOY!!!...............not!). Was able to get some things done, all of which are necessary but dont really indicate significant progress with the build.

Got the mechanics pretty much finished (I think). Just waiting on the correct toothed clutch bell for the Jaka, then I can mount the turbine.

Still not really happy with the auto rotation hub situation I described earlier. Every other heli I have ever built, there is a radial or thrust bearing coupled with the one-way bearing. These mechanics have a metal washer grinding against the metal housing of the lower needle bearing. That washer is not a bronze oilite type washer. I have the mainshaft as free as I can get it, but when you rotate the mainshaft, as would happen during an auto or more often (like every flight) during spool down after a turbine shut down, it is not "bearing smooth", you can literally feel the "grinding" / "rough" nature of two steel pieces grinding together. (which would be the washer on the auto hub rubbing against the needle bearing housing). Not real sure what to do about it or if it is even "normal" for these mechanics.

Also had to sand and file away at the dado joints on the bulkhead-to-retract housing to get a nice full fit. This allowed a nice rough finish for the hysol to get a nice tight grip when I glue it all together.


And completed the retract assemblies. A little polishing here, a little clear grease there and they are nice and smooth. They run very smoothly with the bearing I added for the pivots. I think that was time well spent.....


Steve

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HomeScaleAircraftScale HeliScale Helicopter Main Discussion Docs  Airwolf Turbine - My Build
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