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HomeScaleAircraftHelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters Docs  Airwolf Turbine - My Build
11-07-2016 03:02 AM  21 months agoPost 301
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Greetings All!! Long time lurker, first time poster LOL!!

Been busy with house stuff and work and life, taking advantage of some ridiculously nice weather this time of year.

Decided I needed to start working on Airwolf again for some much needed therapy.

Got the doghouse vent holes cut.

Before.........

And after.......

And then made a big step by figuring out my paint. I have to admit that originally I was thinking of painting wolf black and not the original color. I was afraid the original color was going to be too "grey" for me. I did some testing and tried several versions of "black" and just was never satisfied with the outcome. Took the plunge and ordered up some original Honda Graphite Grey Metallic. Hey, what you know, color aint too bad!!! LOL!! Did a couple of test panels in a non-controlled environment (so we got some dust and crap in the paint - but who cares, they are just test panels). Tested both a semi-gloss and "regular" gloss clear coat.

Here are two test panels side by side regular gloss on the right. Correct grey color on top and correct white color on bottom......

Close up of the color and "panel line" test. Used "chart tape" for the panel line and it turned out pretty good........

And the gloss panel close up. Pretty happy with the lack of "orange peel"........

Will definitely go with the gloss clear coat. Looks really nice without being "too" shiny (or "toyish" ).

Happy with the colors. Used some 3M vinyl Fine Line tape to mask the line between the white and grey and am very happy with the tape line between colors. Nice and crisp and no color bleed. All in all quite pleased with the testing!!

Granted, it is not up to satsuma standards, but hey, it is my first base coat clear coat attempt! Pretty stoked it went as well as it did. I have been fretting over painting for well over a year now and, at least painting these test panels, it turned out to not be THAT big of a deal.

Yea for me!!!

Steve

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11-13-2016 09:17 PM  21 months agoPost 302
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Oki doki, was able to get back at it the past few days.

Got to working on raised panel details. Using .020" styrene, and with a combination of sanding and filing got most everything fabbed.......


Then worked on the radome thingy on the bottom side of the nose. Decided the best way to attack this domed shape was to use a ping pong ball.....

Made a template to get the compound curve shape of of the fuse....

Transferred that to the ping pong ball and cut it out......

Filled it with resin to give it some rigidity and strength. Also strategically placed a steel weight (I need TONS of nose weight so just trying to hide as much of it as possible LOL).....

And glued in place ready for primer.....


And pear pressure has forced me to make the turbine inlets more "shapely" LOL! So started with .015" stryene and made a "tube" that I could shape to the inlet form....


Used epoxy putty on the inside to attach the tube and to also provide some "filler" so when I sanded to round the front edges, there would be material on the backside to sand into....

And then trimming, filling and lots of sanding......







Should look good once primer hits it.

Till next time!

Steve

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11-14-2016 02:24 AM  21 months agoPost 303
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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Gonna Be Nice Looking!!
Great job Steve

Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

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11-20-2016 12:32 AM  21 months agoPost 304
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Little teaser update as I progress with exterior details.

Raised panel details so far on the bottom.........

Raised panel details on the doghouse.......

Used 0-80 threaded rod to simulate hinge pins........

Using chart tape for panel lines..........

Added 3 coats of high build primer.......

Will then pull the chart tape after the primer flashes off. Hopefully that will reveal a nice recessed panel line. If not, a little elbow grease and sand paper can get me back to square one.

A few more exterior details to go and then fine detail in preparation for primer. Step by step, day by day, getting closer! I am looking forward to primer, but then again I am not sure I am. After primer I have 832 bazillion rivets to install (that is a fairly accurate number as I did count them!!!!)

Steve

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11-20-2016 07:15 PM  21 months agoPost 305
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Little more progress....................

Raised panel detail on the horizontal stab winglets........

Carved a tail light housing out balsa......

Hinge detail and recessed panel lines on the front doghouse. Looks OK I think...........

My "Avionics access panel" needed some sort of "handle" to facilitate removal to gain access to the refueling port, and power switches. Wanted something that didnt look like a simple handle or stood out. Decided to fab up a pitot looking thingy. My story is it a differential pressure sensor for the weapons array tracking systems. :laugh:

And got the side pod end panels fitted to the removal portion of the side pods. They are loose for the time being for paint work and gun installation, but they are ready to go (and I wanted to see what they were going to look like when installed).......

Steve

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11-20-2016 07:25 PM  21 months agoPost 306
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Very nice detail work! After seeing your ping pong ball radome bump, I think I'll repurpose my Jack in the Box antenna ball... Nice thinking outside the box...
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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11-22-2016 09:39 PM  21 months agoPost 307
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Nice thinking outside the box...
Well I officially have it bad. I am walking through Dicks Sporting Goods for no apparent reason other than simply window shopping with my wife. I find myself perusing the yard sports aisle and I come upon a 6 pack of ping pong balls. My first thought wasnt "I need new ping pong balls", it was "Holy Cow! I can use a cut down ping pong ball for a radome on Airwolf!".

My wife was not nearly as excited as I was, but she was a trooper and was simply happy that I was happy.

Most would consider that to be rather pathetic; I consider it a worthwhile epiphany! LOL!!!

Steve

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11-23-2016 11:26 AM  21 months agoPost 308
goodhunting

rrVeteran

Slovenia ... somewhere in Europe

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Steve
in this case stay away from hobby lobby....

I used to get "lost in space" there ...

haha

gh

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11-28-2016 04:43 PM  20 months agoPost 309
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Well, I think I am finished with exterior raised panel details. Now it is nothing but masking, detail filling and sanding and cleaning to get it ready for primer.

Plan (generalized for easy reading) is to shoot primer, final sand primer with 320 grit, and then apply the glue rivets. Then shoot basecoat - clearcoat directly over the rivets. That sounds about right,...right?

I wont bore you all with pics of spot primer applications, block sanding and detail filling minor imperfections with glazing putty over the next couple of weeks, so the next update will be pics of a fully primed fuse ready for glue rivets.

Until then, the greatest theme song ever created................

Watch at YouTube

Steve

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11-28-2016 04:54 PM  20 months agoPost 310
goodhunting

rrVeteran

Slovenia ... somewhere in Europe

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Just because it is not glue.... we still want to see it while drying.....

Gh

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11-28-2016 07:21 PM  20 months agoPost 311
BEAR

rrApprentice

Peterborough

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I think finishing primer with 320 is a bit coarse in my opinion when I was painting cars 3 months ago we were finishing primer with 500 grit sanding disks.
The last thing you want to have to do is put so much basecoat on to cover sanding marks that you end up burying details.
This is of course just my opinion.
Bear

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11-28-2016 07:50 PM  20 months agoPost 312
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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I think finishing primer with 320 is a bit coarse in my opinion when I was painting cars 3 months ago we were finishing primer with 500 grit sanding disks.
Thanks for the info Bear, I appreciate it very much! You are the second person to recommend final sanding with a finer grit. Based on the feedback, I will do a single pass with 320 and then finish it off with 600.

Steve

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11-28-2016 08:24 PM  20 months agoPost 313
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Just because it is not glue.... we still want to see it while drying.....

Steve

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11-29-2016 12:43 AM  20 months agoPost 314
Thumper217

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Slidell, LA - USA

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Great job on all the panel details that's going to look really sharp and thanks for sharing all your methods as I'm getting lots of good ideas for the S-76. One question, how do the chart tape panel lines compare to the panel lines that are already molded into the fuse? I have a few panel lines that end in the wrong spot and should continue on in the same direction and I am wondering if I have to "carve" them into the fuse or if I can use tape the way you did or maybe I should fill in the existing line and use tape for the whole thing. What is your opinion if you don't mind sharing?

Thanks,
Andrew

Thumper

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11-29-2016 01:18 AM  20 months agoPost 315
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Hi Andrew.

Been following your build thread and admiring the work so far. The boarding steps are the shiznit!!

I am by no means a panel line expert, but will gladly tell you why I did what I did. In the area that I depict in my pictures, the fuse had panel lines molded in, but they were inconsistent in depth mainly. I was certain that primer and color coat and clear coat would cause portions of the panel lines to disappear and be inconsistent in appearance. In this area I used chart tape in the existing molded panel lines to achieve a much more consistent and definable depth. I was lucky in that the chart tape I bought just happened to be nearly identical in width as the molded panel lines. I would say the end result of the chart tape lines are at least equal to the best looking molded in lines in my fuse. I like the consistency I was able to get using the chart tape and wouldnt hesitate using that method on future builds.

There are other areas on my fuse where there are molded in panel lines that I did not want (they are in non-scale locations and they were VERY thin in depth). So I sanded the fuse in those areas completely down to make the panel lines disappear disappear.

Depending on what your existing panel lines look like, I would probably fill the existing panel lines in with a few coats of high build filler primer (do one coat, sand, another coat, sand, etc., so you dont build up the area around the panel lines too much), sand completely smooth and then use chart tape to recreate them and extend them as you need. If the existing panel lines are "relatively deep" in that it might take a bunch of filler primer to fill them, consider filling them with spot glazing putty (I have been using Bondo brand and like it), prime the glazing putty, and then use chart tape to recreate and extend as needed.

I personally would not try to "carve" panel lines, as I know that with my skills I would not be able to control the depth or free hand a straight enough line to be happy with the end result.

Hope this helps!

Steve

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11-29-2016 10:27 AM  20 months agoPost 316
Thumper217

rrApprentice

Slidell, LA - USA

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Wow, thanks for the detailed response that's just the info I was looking for. I'm going to have to take a really close look at the existing panel lines to evaluate them and figure out which method to use. It will most likely be a combination.

I will also be starting work on the cowlings soon and will be reviewing your posts about cutting the various vents, intakes, etc. and filling in behind them to give it some depth. Again a lot of great info and thanks for taking the time to share.

Can't wait for your next update.

Andrew

Thumper

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11-29-2016 11:52 AM  20 months agoPost 317
goodhunting

rrVeteran

Slovenia ... somewhere in Europe

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there is another... more tedious but highly effective method for adding the correct panel lines...
it is described here...

http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/rescribingda_1.htm

Now the real question is.... how much is too much...

gh

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11-29-2016 11:55 AM  20 months agoPost 318
goodhunting

rrVeteran

Slovenia ... somewhere in Europe

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and another useful article...
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Scribing.html

gh

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12-04-2016 01:13 AM  20 months agoPost 319
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Well wasnt planning on periodic updates at this point, cause there aint much to show, but Klem threatened to take my glue away so peer pressure has forced me into giving you pics of paint drying. Blame Klem!!! LOL!!!

First off did the chart tape panel line thing for the nose (bonnet) cover...

Here's a closeup, these turned out really nice. This pic is immediately after pulling the tape, no sanding or anything yet as the paint is still soft......

Doing some detail filing and sanding on the bottom......

Added rivet detail to the doghouse panel hinges I fabbed up earlier......

Spot primed the engine inlets I was "forced" to fab :-) Turned out pretty good.....

And started with the filler primer on the areas where I did major bondo work......

So far so good. Pretty pleased with the results so far. Getting there!

Steve

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12-04-2016 01:56 AM  20 months agoPost 320
Heli143

rrElite Veteran

Phenix City, Alabama

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Really enjoying following your build!

Awesome work!!

Roy Mayoral

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