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HomeAircraftHelicopterHelicopter Main Discussion › Heli motor rebuild
03-25-2015 02:03 AM  3 years agoPost 1
Rockin Bird

rrApprentice

St Gabriel, La

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Looking for someone to rebuild 50 size heli motors.I will pay for parts and labor plus shipping.Both are OS Max 50s,one has a blue head,the other is old style.

That sweet smell of "Nitro"

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03-25-2015 02:05 AM  3 years agoPost 2
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

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What shape are they in?

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03-25-2015 02:55 AM  3 years agoPost 3
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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I'll do them for you if you like.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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03-25-2015 04:00 AM  3 years agoPost 4
HeimD

rrVeteran

the great southwest

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Learn to do it yourself. It's easy. Buy a toaster oven and order bearings from a place like Boca Bearings. Rings, sleeves and whatever else you need can be ordered without the labor cost others will charge you.

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03-25-2015 04:33 AM  3 years agoPost 5
ICUR1-2

rrElite Veteran

Ottawa, Ontario

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It maybe easy for most to rebuild an engine but not for everyone. And not everyone would charge very much if anything at all.
one thing to consider is the shipping charges.

Even if I did it for free the shipping charges and parts would make almost worthwhile to buy a new one. In the end there might be 100$ saving to have a rebuilt engine

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03-25-2015 04:35 AM  3 years agoPost 6
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

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Learn to do it yourself.
Here's a link that describes how to do it....with the engines you want to rebuild.

http://helipilotonline.com/rebuild-your-nitro-engine/

I like that fact that the author was very thorough in the rebuild.

New rings, piston wrist pin and clips, con-rod, bearings....with ABC/ABN engines(non-ringed), one would also replace the piston and cylinder liner...

The author didn't go into a carb re-build, which might/might not, be needed.

Also, recommend replacing the paper backplate gasket...

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03-25-2015 04:58 AM  3 years agoPost 7
tyfast27

rrApprentice

Dubois, Wyoming

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+1 on suggesting to play with it yourself. Extremely low parts count, and everything can pretty much go together only one way. Maybe just take a bunch of pictures as you take it apart so you have a reference. Just throwing my two cents in there

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03-25-2015 05:08 AM  3 years agoPost 8
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

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You could get a front bearing "puller" tool....but...

the only specialized tools you would need is some dowels from Home Depot that are slightly smaller than the OD of the crankshaft.

That's if the bearings are so old and attacked to the crankcase...that the "hot wrapping" doesn't work.

And then there's the carb....does it need a re-build, too...

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03-25-2015 02:31 PM  3 years agoPost 9
ICUR1-2

rrElite Veteran

Ottawa, Ontario

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Have you tried finding a local club? someone there might be able to help.

The only tricky part is making sure you return the piston to it's proper orientation because of the piston skirt.
and when you re-assemble the engine you put the new bearings in the freaser for an hour and reheat the case in the oven so that the bearing falls back into place and using a wrench socket to tap it in place helps to be sure it is fully seated.

set your oven to 350*F and heat the casing for 15 - 20 mins
for removal and reinstalling the bearings.

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03-25-2015 02:43 PM  3 years agoPost 10
Dave Willis

rrVeteran

Sevierville, TN USA

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I recommend rebuilding it yourself, it's not that difficult. If you ruin something you really haven't lost anything since the engines are already down.
I'd recommend cleaning the crankcase with Dawn Power Dissolver, it'll make the engine look like new.
You'll get satisfaction when your flying with a motor you've built yourself.
A lot of help here on RR if you have a question or need some Help/Advise.
Part of the Hobby I think.

Dave

Futaba AMA 6679 IRCHA 675 VHA 11

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03-25-2015 05:32 PM  3 years agoPost 11
HeimD

rrVeteran

the great southwest

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You don't even need a bearing puller. Just strip the crankcase down to nothing but the bearings left in it and throw it in a toaster oven at max blast (mine goes to 450F) for about 10-15 min. The aluminum will expand faster than the steel bearings and crack them loose. They will easily come out with a light tap and there's a good chance they'll just fall out on their own. When it comes time to install the new bearings, just heat up the crankcase again and chill the bearings in the freezer. They'll fall right into place.

Basically, it's the same process as getting heli bearings out of things like aluminum bearing blocks.

Here's an old video from Curtis Youngblood and there's no arguing he knows his heli stuff. He doesn't put the bearings in the freezer, but I've never had a problem with moisture. That's what zip-lock bags are for. Notice the relative ease with which the bearings come out after heating the crankcase.

Watch at YouTube

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03-25-2015 08:12 PM  3 years agoPost 12
ICUR1-2

rrElite Veteran

Ottawa, Ontario

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good video I like the way he used the crankshaft to seat the bearings.
The only thing he forgot to mention was the back plate has a flat spot which goes towards the piston.
About the moisture he was referring to, WD-40 will take care of that issue and pre-lube it for it's first run

thanks for posting the video

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03-26-2015 12:14 AM  3 years agoPost 13
HeimD

rrVeteran

the great southwest

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Yeah, as long as it doesn't sit for a long time, moisture isn't a problem. It would be boiled off very quickly during the engine's first run.

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03-26-2015 03:09 AM  3 years agoPost 14
Rockin Bird

rrApprentice

St Gabriel, La

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motor rebuild
yes thanks everyone for all the help,but right now I am working alot out of town jobs.I will try to rebuild some 30 size motors later but for now I am going to let Dr. BEN look at them.

That sweet smell of "Nitro"

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03-28-2015 03:19 AM  3 years agoPost 15
supertigre

rrApprentice

Castle Rock, Colorado

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Please don't heat the crankcase higher than 350F. Hardened steel and cast aluminum begin to lose their dimensional stability above 385F. You might be lucky and get away with it a few times, but then again, you may not. Also, using a propane torch is also not a good idea because you have no way of knowing how hot your parts get, and the heat isn't even.

Start out at around 250F. The rear bearing will usually just drop out at that temp. Push the front bearing out with a piece of dowel.

Paul Mcintosh
Owner-CRCustom.com - custom vinyl lettering, banners, signs

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03-28-2015 04:19 AM  3 years agoPost 16
turboomni

rrProfessor

East of the Equator

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I would try to do it yourself. Many have done it over the years and there must be hundreds of you tube vids of all different kinds of rc engines being rebuilt.

Paul I will have to check out your rc bearing site!!

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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03-28-2015 02:56 PM  3 years agoPost 17
tyfast27

rrApprentice

Dubois, Wyoming

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I think the op has already stated that he simply doesn't have the time is all. Try and keep up

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03-28-2015 08:43 PM  3 years agoPost 18
supertigre

rrApprentice

Castle Rock, Colorado

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If you have time to fly helis, you have time to perform maintenance, I would think!

Paul Mcintosh
Owner-CRCustom.com - custom vinyl lettering, banners, signs

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03-28-2015 08:56 PM  3 years agoPost 19
turboomni

rrProfessor

East of the Equator

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In one flying sessions time you could rebuild a few engines if you had the parts.

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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03-29-2015 01:21 PM  3 years agoPost 20
HeimD

rrVeteran

the great southwest

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If you have time to fly helis, you have time to perform maintenance, I would think!
Yup. It's all about priorities.

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