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HomeAircraftHelicopterSynergy R/CSynergy N7 › Thinking about getting an N7?
01-25-2015 07:28 PM  3 years agoPost 1
ChrisK7

rrApprentice

Stanfield, Ore. 97875

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I'm thinking of getting an N7 after building and flying my E5 I love it.

My questions are what are some of the things, if any, that you are finding problematic or needing attention on the N7?

Like the clutch system, how long it lasts, engages, the one way bearing, etc.?

How are the gears, bearings, and shafts holding up?

Just in general are there any things to watch for on this model?

Thanks for any input.

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01-25-2015 09:34 PM  3 years agoPost 2
Dan Minick

rrKey Veteran

Columbus, WI

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Nothing new from other Synergy models in my book. Make sure all the set screws are tightened! Iv got one nitro and one turbine. Both are smooth as silk

Team Synergy, Team FBL Rotors-------if its not broke...it will be!

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01-25-2015 10:05 PM  3 years agoPost 3
Steff Giguere

rrProfessor

St-Eustache, Quebec, Canada

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86 flights on mine and nothing needs to be replaced or changed. Straight forward build, very solid but light heli.

Team Synergy, Rail blades, Team Scorpion, V-Team

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01-26-2015 02:16 AM  3 years agoPost 4
Steve Graham

rrApprentice

Denver, CO

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Check out Matt Botos Synergy forum pages. Lots of good info over there. I've had mine for about a year. Very good, reliable heli. Grab a set of turnbuckles from Ralph at FBL rotors.

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01-26-2015 03:39 AM  3 years agoPost 5
buster1

rrKey Veteran

Manhattan, NY

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what is the most recent helicopter synergy has released.?

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01-26-2015 12:45 PM  3 years agoPost 6
Dan Minick

rrKey Veteran

Columbus, WI

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the N7

Team Synergy, Team FBL Rotors-------if its not broke...it will be!

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01-26-2015 04:28 PM  3 years agoPost 7
Jim Cimino

rrKey Veteran

NE Pennsylvania

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I have an E7SE and it is a great helicopter. I have a N7 used coming tomorrow because I really like the Synergy stuff. I still like my nitro machines because I can just refuel and go. I have 5 electric and 7 fuel machines. Wow...that's too many!

Team Synergy, Team Scorpion, No good deed goes unpunished

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01-26-2015 04:59 PM  3 years agoPost 8
Jgatorman

rrVeteran

Birmingham, AL

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edit

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04-28-2015 04:06 PM  3 years agoPost 9
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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Only thing ive had to change is the clutch liner. The new liner I put in must be thicker or something because it engaged very strongly even at idle and is only just getting better. BTW the clutch has not sprung open.

I'll be needing to replace the links soon as they are getting sloppy. They sure don't last as long as the nice cromed ones that my N5 had.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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06-10-2015 04:15 PM  3 years agoPost 10
rcnut

rrElite Veteran

Rockford, Illinois

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I just built one earlier this spring. I can't think of a single thing. Just make sure as you are assembling the fan hub to the motor...do not tighten the nut on the output shaft first. Just tighten it enough to hold the fan hub from moving.

Then tighten the cinch bolts, on the sides of the fan hub, first, equally, really tight, and then tighten the output nut. I did the opposit and spin the hub...then I had to order a new hub.

Depending on the brand of servo you may use for the cyclics, you may need to space the servos away from the frame (bearing block).

That's about all I can think of. Its a straight forward build.

Hope that helps!

Team Miniature Aircraft
"I love the smell of Nitro in the morning!"
...Citizen 654!

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09-04-2015 05:40 AM  35 months agoPost 11
whitehedr

rrApprentice

New Lenox, Il USA

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When you build the transmission put a narrow strip of heat shrink around the gear that has that pin which is secured by the set screw. The heat shrink will keep the pin in place if the set screw does happen to back out.

ROG

Retired Old Guy

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09-04-2015 05:30 PM  35 months agoPost 12
Steve Graham

rrApprentice

Denver, CO

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Thats a great idea ROG

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09-05-2015 02:29 PM  35 months agoPost 13
rcnut

rrElite Veteran

Rockford, Illinois

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For the transmission, I lost the pin in flight and it was my fault. During the build, everything is mostly assembled for you, but you need to take each subassembly apart and loctite the appropriate parts. I for got to loctite the grub screw in the bottom of the jack-shaft and that's why the pin came out. Even though there's a lock-nut holding the grub screw in place.

My fix: I ground a shallow "u" (flat spot) in the pin using my dremel with a cutoff wheel, and set to the lowest speed. This gives the grub screw a "groove" to seat into, preventing the pin from sliding out.

And then loctite that grub screw!

Team Miniature Aircraft
"I love the smell of Nitro in the morning!"
...Citizen 654!

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09-05-2015 03:53 PM  35 months agoPost 14
whitehedr

rrApprentice

New Lenox, Il USA

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I like that idea too!!

ROG

Ps. I too lost that pin😡😡. I think that there are those that have lost that pin and those that WILL lose that pin.

Retired Old Guy

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09-05-2015 04:03 PM  35 months agoPost 15
whitehedr

rrApprentice

New Lenox, Il USA

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There is another pin like the one in the front transmission. It is securing the bevel gear in the tail box. Your idea for the the groove on the shaft is the only way to add extra security for that pin as the bevel gear in the tail box has a significant taper to the hub.
These pins are for sure on the N7 and E5. Probably on the E7SE and N5C TT as well.

ROG

Retired Old Guy

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09-05-2015 04:16 PM  35 months agoPost 16
Rodney Kirstine

rrApprentice

Caldwell, ID - USA

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What I always do is, before even installing the gear or pin, is to run the set screw in and verify that the end is making it to the hole that the pin goes through to ensure that the threads are good for the entire depth of the hole.

Rodney
Team Synergy Field Rep, Rail Blades

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09-05-2015 06:42 PM  35 months agoPost 17
Steve Graham

rrApprentice

Denver, CO

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Has anyone that has actually used locktight on the set screw ever had the pin come out? If the answer is no I'd suggest we may overthinking this. I do use red locktight these days on very small screws including set screws because I've had blue fail in the past. I think it just doesn't have enough surface area in high vibration environments to work effectively.

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09-05-2015 06:50 PM  35 months agoPost 18
Dan Minick

rrKey Veteran

Columbus, WI

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I have never had a pin come out, front or rear, using standard blue over 10 models

I hope that does not change now that I said something

Team Synergy, Team FBL Rotors-------if its not broke...it will be!

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09-05-2015 06:54 PM  35 months agoPost 19
Rodney Kirstine

rrApprentice

Caldwell, ID - USA

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I have never had a pin come out, front or rear, using standard blue over 10 models
I hope that does not change now that I said something
I've not, either, but didn't want to say that in my post for exactly the same reason! LOL

Rodney
Team Synergy Field Rep, Rail Blades

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09-18-2015 01:18 AM  35 months agoPost 20
Robert Sinsky

rrNovice

Aberdeen Maryland

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N7
It's a great choice awsome machine ! Haven't owned one but I've had an E7, E5, and right now I have the new N5c TT edition and its my favorite Heli !!! But just like the other guy stated keep up on checking screws ! It just cost me my N5c ! My fault! One thing to keep in mind when you do the build there is a pin that keeps the umbrella gear in time in the front transmission. Tighten down on that so it puts pressure on the pin. I found out the hard way. I lost mine in flight and it started spinning like crazy ! No biggie I digured hit throttle hold and bring it soft. Well that didn't work either because the screw that tightened the carburetor had fallen out too and had more than half a tank of fuel. So it's in pieces on my bench until I get parts. CHECK SCREWS !! It's been my most dependable and best flying Heli I have ! 😫

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