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01-21-2015 05:33 AM  3 years agoPost 21
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

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I was just curious about "spinning" the bearing's inner race....

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01-21-2015 05:38 AM  3 years agoPost 22
Aaron29

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USA

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If bearings are spinning they are in need of replacement. Sooner or later you'll want to remove the shaft. Then what?

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01-21-2015 05:50 AM  3 years agoPost 23
EEngineer

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TX

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Mechanical carnage....

I kinda thought that races shouldn't spin....only the bearing balls...

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01-21-2015 05:51 AM  3 years agoPost 24
Aaron29

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USA

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They don't normally. But a bad bearing or loose fit can.

Its not really such an issue for loctite IMO

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01-21-2015 05:58 AM  3 years agoPost 25
Dr.Ben

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Richmond, VA, USA

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Depending on the situation, a brand new bearing will spin on brand new shafts. The most infamous case on an electric model is the motor shaft spinning on the counter bearing. On a nitro model it's the clutch shaft. You'll ruin the shaft in time and the bearing as well if that bearing ID is not loctited to the shaft. Look at pics of used motors in the classifieds, and you'll often see the tell-tale damage shaft damage.
Now, the in strictest sense of the word I'd loctite all high speed shafts to their bearings, but doing some in some cases and on routinely serviced parts like tail box shafts makes it disadvantageous to loctite shafts in these assemblies. In the old days some guys did loctite mainshafts to bearings, but it was mostly because the shafts were fractionally undersized for the bearing ID's and caused noticeable shaft wobble. Larger models with 12-15mm mainshafts have lots of contact area against the bearings, so the practice is wholly unneeded for those cases.
On my E820/720, the motor pinion bearing and the front tail drive bearings are fixtured to their shafts. All sleeves going through bearings in mixing arms are done as well.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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01-21-2015 05:59 AM  3 years agoPost 26
EEngineer

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TX

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BTW, I don't bother with the inners...jus the outers....races that is...

With the triple main shaft bearing blocks....as I fit the two frame side together....I use the main shaft to help align the bearings...strive for the main shaft to slide freely.

Which means the inner races could spin....and cause wear.

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01-21-2015 06:02 AM  3 years agoPost 27
Aaron29

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USA

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I have spin marks on many shafts that don't seem to affect overall performance

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01-21-2015 06:07 AM  3 years agoPost 28
EEngineer

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TX

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In the old days some guys did loctite mainshafts to bearings, but it was mostly because the shafts were fractionally undersized for the bearing ID's and caused noticeable shaft wobble
So now, with more precise tolerances, the inner race is not an issue....

Just the outer race.

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01-21-2015 06:13 AM  3 years agoPost 29
Aaron29

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USA

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If you're spinning an outer race, you've got huge bearing issues.

It's normally the ID spinning on the shaft, not the whole enchilada.

I personally view shafts as sacrificial. As are bearings.

Course this is 3D application. F3C might want a little more pickiness.

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01-21-2015 06:16 AM  3 years agoPost 30
EEngineer

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TX

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Plus, with an outer race spinning...the friction heat can melt plastic housings...

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01-21-2015 06:17 AM  3 years agoPost 31
Aaron29

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USA

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Ugh. Dr.Ben, do you recommend I loctite my D3 shafts? It'd be hard to call a $40 mainshaft sacrificial.

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01-21-2015 06:17 AM  3 years agoPost 32
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

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I agree with you....just wondering about any new and innovative ideas...

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01-21-2015 06:19 AM  3 years agoPost 33
Aaron29

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USA

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Plus, with an outer race spinning...the friction heat can melt plastic housings...
Only happened once to me in 11 years of flying helis. If it's happening, you have a trashed bearing and yeah, a bearing block or in the case of my plastic fantastics, a set of frames to replace.

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01-21-2015 07:47 AM  3 years agoPost 34
EEngineer

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TX

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Hasn't happened to me.

With the tail belt bearings in the 600SX frames, I secure the outer race shaft with a dab of JB...underneath...and on top.

Won't spin....

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01-21-2015 09:49 AM  3 years agoPost 35
4 stroke flyer

rrApprentice

Dowagiac,MI

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609 is what I just bought.

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01-21-2015 01:20 PM  3 years agoPost 36
Dr.Ben

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Richmond, VA, USA

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No Aaron I would and never did Loctite the ID 10mm Hirobo shafts. They are hard as a rock and never sloppy on a bearing ID.

I fully agree that a bearing OD actively spinning in a block is a very bad thing and may dictate not only a new bearing but a new block as well depending on the damage. I loctite all bearing OD's into blocks except for blade grip radials.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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01-21-2015 01:56 PM  3 years agoPost 37
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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what's your take on using the mean green to prevent bearing inner races from spinning on a shaft
There are several different green Loctite formulas so you can't go by color alone. For example, 290 is green and is threadlocker while 609 and 638 are also green and they are retaining compounds. There are several other green formulas as well.

  

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01-21-2015 03:00 PM  3 years agoPost 38
Dr.Ben

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Richmond, VA, USA

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Yes, never, ever, ever go off of color to predict application. Hell, I think that 641 is yellow.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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01-21-2015 03:17 PM  3 years agoPost 39
Ace Dude

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USA

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Yes, 641 is yellow.

  

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01-21-2015 03:29 PM  3 years agoPost 40
don s

rrElite Veteran

Chesapeake, VA

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Loctites.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#loctite-re...mpounds/=vkanbz

E820, Raptor G4N, X50F/E, E620, Forza 450, and some planks.

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