RunRyder RC
WATCH
 2 pages [ <<    <     1     ( 2 )    >    >> ] 1882 views POST REPLY
HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › soldering iron
01-21-2015 05:31 AM  3 years agoPost 21
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Just ensure that the iron you're getting has a "grounded-tip" and has a variety of tips that meets your applications...as necessary.

It's extremely risky to apply an iron with an "un-grounded" tip to any electronic components.

Any iron with a "2 prong" plug has a "un-grounded" tip.

FWIW

PM  EMAIL  Attn:RR  Quote
01-21-2015 05:34 AM  3 years agoPost 22
rexxigpilot

rrProfessor

Florida

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

For 14 Euro, I would give the OP's iron a shot. It looks the same as my old 25W Weller, WP25 I think. Probably the same iron just operating at 230V instead of 125V. I was almost able to solder good connections on EC5s with it.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-21-2015 05:35 AM  3 years agoPost 23
Aaron29

rrProfessor

USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

25W? Ec5? Only for masochists.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-21-2015 05:39 AM  3 years agoPost 24
rexxigpilot

rrProfessor

Florida

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

It had a fairly large tip, bigger than 1/8"

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-21-2015 05:47 AM  3 years agoPost 25
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Thought the OP's iron was 50W...

Take your time...get the connector hot enough so that it can melt the solder...not just the iron tip...use solder paste with 60/40 solder...ensure a shiny joint....clean off excess flux residue...done...

PM  EMAIL  Attn:RR  Quote
01-21-2015 01:57 PM  3 years agoPost 26
JEEPWORLD2002/2

rrKey Veteran

Blue Bell, Pa

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

i use a pace adjustabe temp staion with the td100 hand set and the mini wave tip
i ve been solder-ing electronics for a very long time and have never grounded a iron and never had a problem. we solder arm 9 chips, linear power chips, pic chips, altera,Ti , allegro steppers maybe i am not dealing with the kind u cant solder un wired

Trex600n,Trex500,MR25,MikadoLoGo5003d/KDE,Goblin 380XNova,CastleCreations,Ys,JR XG8,Tags Mini XBus Dmss//FAA# FA3NYC9TAP

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-21-2015 02:07 PM  3 years agoPost 27
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Pace is high end industrial grade equipment. I recently purchased a Pace to replace my Weller WTCPT. I'd bet your Pace is ESD safe and internally grounded.

  

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-21-2015 02:52 PM  3 years agoPost 28
JEEPWORLD2002/2

rrKey Veteran

Blue Bell, Pa

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

it has connections for ground, but have never strapped anything to it
yea i love it had a weller before this one and it had heater in tip but just couldnt handle the big parts so i upgraded to the under gold series but gave that one to #2 and i got the gold has same hand set so wattage is the same but the old was analog knob vs dig display

http://www.paceworldwide.com/produc...on-and-standard

http://www.paceworldwide.com/produc...45-degrees-0616
here is a tip its diamond series with some plating to make em last i just keep clean and end and start with a 6' piece of solder 6" that is

Trex600n,Trex500,MR25,MikadoLoGo5003d/KDE,Goblin 380XNova,CastleCreations,Ys,JR XG8,Tags Mini XBus Dmss//FAA# FA3NYC9TAP

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-21-2015 03:16 PM  3 years agoPost 29
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I got the same station. Have only had it a few months, but really like it. It's great to be able to change tips on the fly. It's also made in the USA.

  

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-21-2015 05:55 PM  3 years agoPost 30
JEEPWORLD2002/2

rrKey Veteran

Blue Bell, Pa

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

wosre thing i can say is i hate when the tip saver feature shuts down in the middle ?
and the heater in the tip handsets kick ass. esp when trying to do them 10g wires n cc 8.0 bullets esp with LF solder (kester k100ld) boy can those wires carry heat away just wish my vice didnt take the heat away from the bullet i am soldering maybe time to invest in one of those alligator clip things

tip yea i ve been using the 1128-0008 30deg con tip diamond series for resistor caps and so on and they seem to last the longest when using LF. i use the angle mini wave for re flowing around chips sets then the regular mini wave for huge wires and large stitching regulators and transistors.

Trex600n,Trex500,MR25,MikadoLoGo5003d/KDE,Goblin 380XNova,CastleCreations,Ys,JR XG8,Tags Mini XBus Dmss//FAA# FA3NYC9TAP

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-21-2015 06:19 PM  3 years agoPost 31
rexxigpilot

rrProfessor

Florida

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

just wish my vice didnt take the heat away from the bullet i am soldering
Here's a solution to that problem that I use, and it works far better than alligator clips. Use a wood block and drill appropriate size holes for the various bullet sizes I use. I used my drill press to get them straight. I drilled about 8 holes each for 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm and 8mm bullets. This way I can set it up to do 4 batteries packs assembly line fashion. I typically tin and fill with needed volume of solder all bullets in the batch first, then tin the wires. When I'm ready to make the solder joint, I simply reheat the solder within the bullet till sizzling hot, insert wire and add heat to assembled connection until I get a shiny solder joint.

With larger wire and connectors a small torch can be used to make sure there are no cold solder joints and to keep solder off the outside of the connector.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-21-2015 06:43 PM  3 years agoPost 32
JEEPWORLD2002/2

rrKey Veteran

Blue Bell, Pa

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

a bit of liquid rosin flux helps too. when tinning the wire and the inside volume of the bullet. i get it done but find when i fill the bullet without the wire, i run out of room for the wire or the wire catches and wont let me insert it but to each their own me i prefer to cook my fingers i guess thanks for the tip though

Trex600n,Trex500,MR25,MikadoLoGo5003d/KDE,Goblin 380XNova,CastleCreations,Ys,JR XG8,Tags Mini XBus Dmss//FAA# FA3NYC9TAP

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-21-2015 07:17 PM  3 years agoPost 33
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

wosre thing i can say is i hate when the tip saver feature shuts down in the middle ?
Can't say I've ever had that happen. I'm using the ISB cubby, but not sure if that makes a difference. Are you using the ISB cubby?

I'm also using Kester #44 63/37 leaded solder. Have never even tried using LF solder.

  

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-21-2015 08:19 PM  3 years agoPost 34
dschertz

rrApprentice

Jackson, MI

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I've used the same soldering iron I got from DeVry Institute in 87 from the electronics engineering program and works fine for me. The tip is about an 1/8",25watts. It works.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-22-2015 04:00 PM  3 years agoPost 35
AirWolfRC

rrProfessor

42½ N, 83½ W

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

25 watt is fine for electronics but I found I had to up to a 37 watt iron for electrical work like conectors and it is still usable for small electronics. I have a cartridge iron. It's a pencil like iron with a screw in (like a small light bulb) cartridge heater with a screw on tip. It does a great job . . . for the past 30 years. Radio Shack doesn't carry them anymore.

The other half of the equation is technique. Clean metal, clean wire, rosin core solder and technique. You only need 100 watts if you're soldering pipe

Besides . . . it's hard to keep a solder coating on a 100 watt tip . . . prevents proper heat transfer.

Solder melts at about 370ºF. Anything over 400 is too much. Some of the newer Pb free solders need higher temps. I still have a good supply of the older 63/37 eutectic solder.

I can't remember the last time I used either of my Weller TC202 adjustable temp soldering stations.

But I often use my de-soldering iron with temperature control and built in vacuum pump

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-22-2015 04:19 PM  3 years agoPost 36
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

From the Kester FAQ:

"What is the recommended soldering iron tip temperature?"

"When hand soldering with a rosin flux such as the Kester #44 or the # 285 the recommended iron tip temperature is 750°F. If you are soldering with a low residue no clean solder such as the #245or # 275 we recommend a tip temperature of 600-650°F."

http://www.kester.com/knowledge-base/faq/

  

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-22-2015 04:54 PM  3 years agoPost 37
AirWolfRC

rrProfessor

42½ N, 83½ W

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Tip temperature is an elusive number. How do you measure that anyway ?

The key is to find something that works consistently. Either way, having a tip that is so hot that a coating of solder gives way to corrosion of the tip that reduces heat transfer is too hot.

The objective is to get the part up to and just past the melting point of the solder.

They can say what they want . . . my 50 years of soldering say otherwise.

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-22-2015 06:07 PM  3 years agoPost 38
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

There are devices available to measure soldering tip temperature.

Watch at YouTube

  

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-22-2015 10:20 PM  3 years agoPost 39
Andy from Sandy

rrElite Veteran

Bedfordshire, UK

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

For soldering EC3 or EC5 connectors I use a Weller 80W iron designed for leaded windows. The part that makes this iron work so well is the size of the bit.

http://www.my-tool-shed.co.uk/p1085...CFW3ItAodgxIA7Q

When at home I see no use for a gas iron. First they are more expensive than the weller and then I need to keep gas for filling it up. I find they are not as convenient as an electric iron.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-23-2015 03:02 AM  3 years agoPost 40
racemwyatt

rrNovice

Oklahoma City

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

The solder will tell you if your iron is too hot. When you tin the tip of the iron and the solder pops and spits, it's too hot. You should get a steady melt and a steady smoke. (A lot like a well tuned nitro! minus the melting part!!)

The secret to a good iron is not how hot it gets, but how well it can maintain its temperature while transferring heat to the item being soldered.

If it's a close race between charging your flight pack and waiting for the iron to heat up; you need a better iron!

I have both the Weller WES51 and the hakko fx-888d (both 100 dollar soldering stations), the hakko is by far my favorite. The hakko heats up to 700 degrees in less than 30 seconds, and only drops a few degrees for about a second when you start soldering.

Use a good iron once and you'll never go back to a cheap iron.

Just my two cents.

I told my parents I wanted to be a pilot when I grew up, they said I can't do both!

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
WATCH
 2 pages [ <<    <     1     ( 2 )    >    >> ] 1882 views POST REPLY
HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › soldering iron
 Print TOPIC  Make Suggestion 

 9  Topic Subscribe

Saturday, August 18 - 9:40 pm - Copyright © 2000-2018 RunRyder   EMAILEnable Cookies

Login Here
 New Subscriptions 
 Buddies Online