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Home✈️Aircraft🚁HelicopterBlades and Night Flying › What makes a good wind resistant blade
12-25-2014 06:47 AM  5 years ago
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Mapoff

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Christiansburg, va

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What makes a good wind resistant blade
I have the 800 boom on my trex and bought the 800 blades. It's worked ok but the static Coning is aweful on them. Also they are a little wider and balloon pretty bad with gusty winds.

I need something that is solid in the wind. I even tried my flybar f3c head with the same blades and the FBL setup was better with same conditions. I've had the spinblade wide chord and lots of lift but major ballooning. Was almost unflyable in the wind.

If anyone has something close to 800 blades they would say is great in a FBL setup and don't balloon bad I would love to hear.
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12-25-2014 02:46 PM  5 years ago
don s

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Chesapeake, VA

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disregardE820, Raptor G4N, X50F/E, E620, Forza 450, and some planks.
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12-25-2014 04:26 PM  5 years ago
Jim Cimino

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NE Pennsylvania

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Try a shorter blade.Team Synergy, Team Scorpion, No good deed goes unpunished
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12-25-2014 04:45 PM  5 years ago
balsapro

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Gallatin,TN

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what blades are you using. the align?

rotortech makes a good set of 800mm blades

the shame of it is the old 800mm v blades were probably about the best 800 size blade I have flown.

if you go much bigger probably have to look at the 1/4 scale stuff from vario

thing is the blades dont have to be "fbl" to work on a fbl heli and frankly a heaver set would make hovering better.
Build the Best, Fly the Best, Crash the Best
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12-25-2014 08:36 PM  5 years ago
Mapoff

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Christiansburg, va

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I'm doing AP and currently my all up weight is 21lbs with my GH2. Add 2 lbs when the 5D is on there. The align 800 blades are aweful. They track what appears to be an inch apart but I don't get any vibrations at all. They are pretty wide as well. I have my 700f3c blades that have a narrow chord but the 800 blades provide a lot of lift. I'm hoping to carry a Red camera next year and need close to 800 blades. I've heard of those blades that get wider at the end but they are discontinued right?
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01-16-2015 11:42 PM  5 years ago
MattJen

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UK

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I've heard of those blades that get wider at the end but they are discontinued right?

I presume you are talking about MAH blades, they have a tapered chord which gives equal lift along the blade, hence it is wider at root and tapers towards the tip.

I used them on my 1/5 scale heavy turbine model, they are a bit pricey but they are excellent blades and come in various lengths.
They are also symmetrical, so less prone to bouncing in the wind, we used them also on my predator turbine which was converted to use a High res camera. (850 size for cam work/820 for aerobatic/non cam work flying) they do 810's.

They still make them and they are available. MAH is in USA new York I think.

Matt

All The Best
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01-17-2015 04:02 AM  5 years ago
Mapoff

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Christiansburg, va

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Hi Res camera? Like what?

I bet some 850's would be crazy. The 800 I have now already seem huge.

Blades probably aren't as big of a deal now. I tried a new CHP EDL frame I got for Christmas. I put everything on that. The difference is direct to swash vs bell cranks. It flies incredible. The bellcrank setup seems to overshoot which caused unneeded corrections. My chp is for fun flying so I'm going back and trying some smaller servo horns to tone it down. Some FBL settings were recommended also.
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01-19-2015 01:11 AM  5 years ago
icanfly

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ontario

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your not doing 3d with them are you? If i had my way you'd have a really amazing blade, but you have a problem in this regard. When you use a two blade head the rotor is going to get blade wake slapping resulting in vibes and if the blades are symmetrical foil they are less efficient than semisymmetric ones, but nobody makes those do they, never mind. let's look at what you have available now.

If you can go to a 3 or 4 blade head and use 700mm blades you will experience far less ballooning due to higher and more efficient rpm, with 4x700 you will have more area than two 800's. Also semi symmetrical blades would do better

ust yesterday I saw a full scale heli overhead do a 180 in moderate winds of 25mph without a single problem and I've seen several examples of full scale flying in very high winds too.

I take pride in flying in wind and calm days seem boring to me now. calming the heli in high wind is a beautiful thing, and there's something not entirely perfect about the typical rc rotor head system that leaves room for improvement whereby ballooning problems become non existent.

It was last week when I took a pair of 550 semi-symmetric foil wood blades and proceeded to cut the root by about 10cm's to bring them to 425mm, they have a slightly wider chord by 2mm than regular cf 425's. after I reshaped the root and removed some thickness from the plastic root grip things, they fit on the Align 500 grips. I spooled them up in no time and discovered they wobbled at high rpm, took them off and put the Blade cf 3d back on. Had a set of 550 woodies from TT and did the same thing except weighed and balanced them, they worked better but I lost the proper balance and took them off only to replace them with the semi symmetric ones, Remember, the BALANCE point was shifted toward the tip because the amount of material removed dictated the ballast counter weight and they were NOT CHANGED. Balance point was 60% toward the tip on these shorted ones, perfect for fbl. So I spent a little time balancing the semi-symmetric blades and was able to spool them up to 80% (about 2000 rpm) without a wobble. I can tell you I have NEVER been so impressed by a set of blades making a huge difference in control and steadiness, remember this is on a scale airwolf (in my gallery). Smooth as silk, no evil tendencies, not affected by wind, and more efficient than symmetric "3d" blades, and easier to fly I could not believe it at first.

atm I'm proto-ing some blade ideas, chord is not the problem, length, rpm, pitch, foil, balance, core material, all things to consider.

I would suggest finding a pair of woodies with a balance point favoring the tip and trying them, lightweight cf blades are going to float too much making the disc loft every time the wind shears across it. Good luck, maybe I should make some 800 woods next, I think I will.

so what was I saying, If your brave enough to cut in (router a slot for lead) and epoxy more ballast into a set of 800s you should get what your looking for in disc stability. I'd say shoot for a 60/40 root to tip balance point. Ballast in a 700 blade is 30grams or one ounce, in the 800mms you might be doubling that. You want to stop the tips from catching the cross wind shear, heavier tips will help, A LOT.
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01-19-2015 03:02 AM  5 years ago
Santiago P

rrProfessor

Dayton

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What makes a good wind resistant blade?
A good airfoil with a shallow lift to angle of attack slope, and a tapered tip. Also a good chordwise balance.

Like the Rotortech straight angled tip blades.
http://www.centuryheli.com/products...l?currentid=191

The Rotortech Scott Gray 720mm are the best in the wind in the 700 size.
8 out of 10 competitors at the US Nationals used them, although half dont have the white and red markings, the yellow and all black are the same blade. I have tried many blades to tame wind gust in hovering and none are more effective. Many are still using them in FBL setups.

Rotortech also makes 800mm ones although they are hard to find.

S
Team Minicopter - PeakAircraft.com
FUTABA.USA - Team Kontronik - Scorpion Motors-
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