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T-REX 700 › New Dominator
08-24-2014 12:12 AM  3 years agoPost 21
Trexwilly

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FL USA

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I just take it easy for the first 5 flights keep flight time down to 4, and charge at 1C to make it easier to keep an eye on the cells, make sure they stay in balance. I also charge them as a 12S on only one charger, a TP 1430 that way I ensure they are going to play nice as a stick... After that I pretty much will throw 2C at them, and parallel charge if the TP is busy. Today on charge 9 on the #1 pack it over heated the charger doing 50V @ 10A... only 500W, but input power was only 25V, I am going to have to see what I can do to change that?

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08-24-2014 05:52 AM  3 years agoPost 22
davehour

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Guayama, Puerto Rico 00785

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Get a better charger, say, at least one that can charge at 1000W.

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08-24-2014 09:39 AM  3 years agoPost 23
Trexwilly

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FL USA

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I have 4 chargers that can charge at 1000W, at least on paper they say they can.
the 1430 is a 1000W charger
I have two Hyperion 720s they are 500 watts a side x duel ports with sync mode
And I have a Voltz 101K but it is only rated to 10S, but 1000 watts, i can parallel charge them on it at 20A
I was looking at the new ichargers? I think the issue was charging at 50V on a 24V set of lead acids, the charger had extra work to convert on both ends, plus it was over 100 here yesterday?

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08-24-2014 03:57 PM  3 years agoPost 24
davehour

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Guayama, Puerto Rico 00785

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I see, but the I-charger has a power limiting feature that reduce the power if the temp rises to a set value.

I have the I-charger 3010B, and works pretty well. I charge at the field using a 12V deep cycle battery. If the battery voltage drops close to 10V, the minimum voltage I have it set as input in the charger, the charger drops the charging current to keep the battery from going below 10V, no matter what charging current I had it set.

In the case of temperature, the charger will drop the charging power if its internal temperature is to reach the maximum one permitted.

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08-24-2014 06:35 PM  3 years agoPost 25
Trexwilly

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FL USA

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Pretty sure the 3010B is the same as the 101K

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08-27-2014 10:41 PM  3 years agoPost 26
Trexwilly

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FL USA

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Thunder Power is back in LV getting looked over, I have been using the 101K charging in parallel at 20A, charges getting done in 22-25 minutes now!

Watch at YouTube

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08-27-2014 11:31 PM  3 years agoPost 27
chopper37

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NJ and Long Island

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Great vid, great flying! What headspeed you using?

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08-28-2014 12:04 AM  3 years agoPost 28
Trexwilly

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FL USA

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1970 in IU1, and IU2 is like 2030

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08-28-2014 12:09 AM  3 years agoPost 29
Davej 700

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Bastrop Texas

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They are a great Machine
I have one as well running the Edge 160 with cooling fan. 65C 5500Mah lipos

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08-28-2014 12:10 AM  3 years agoPost 30
chopper37

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NJ and Long Island

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Thanks for the HS info

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08-28-2014 11:38 AM  3 years agoPost 31
Trexwilly

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FL USA

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Sure thing, I am going to try Mode 6 on the Heli Jive should give me a larger range of HS,I would like to try some lower HS stuff, and right now Mode 4 is only letting me get down to the 1900s at 55%

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08-28-2014 03:14 PM  3 years agoPost 32
chopper37

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NJ and Long Island

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I like 1850 on my helis mostly big air no 3D dont have the funds to learn all that cool stuff

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08-28-2014 10:06 PM  3 years agoPost 33
Trexwilly

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FL USA

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Man the Sim, and high altitude are your friend when learning 3D.

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09-02-2014 05:06 PM  3 years agoPost 34
rhodesengr

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Pleasanton, CA USA

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1970 in IU1, and IU2 is like 2030
did you try any lower headspeed? like 1800 or 1900? did you notice the tail sort of drifting around even with high tail gain. I just maidened my 700L this weekend. All seems good except this issue with the tail which I can see when hovering. The heading does not change overall but the tail wanders up/down and left/right a couple of cm's. At 2000 I can see it a little and at 2100, it seems to be gone.

I could see this the CC gov on or off and I increased the FBL gain to as high as 90.

I read a bunch of threads about the Align tail blades. Not sure if that is still an issue. I don't think I am getting the so-called hum.

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09-02-2014 08:48 PM  3 years agoPost 35
Trexwilly

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FL USA

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Yes I have tried 1750, I did find a little "hunting" in the tail, I took the whole assembly apart and rebuilt it, hunt is gone...

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09-02-2014 10:03 PM  3 years agoPost 36
rhodesengr

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Pleasanton, CA USA

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Yes I have tried 1750, I did find a little "hunting" in the tail, I took the whole assembly apart and rebuilt it, hunt is gone...
So that is actually two votes I now have for something mechanical in the tail. What do you think changed by rebuilding the tail? I am thinking, I may some some of those little screws too tight.

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09-02-2014 10:39 PM  3 years agoPost 37
dchekas

rrKey Veteran

Farmington, CT

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One key area to pay attention to is where the dog bone tail pitch links connect to the black yoke on the tail pitch slider.

Depending on how tight you crank down on those bolts, and how the dog bones come out of the mold, they can become very tight, and lead to a "sticky" feel in the tail rotor travel.

This can usually be resolved by lightly sanding or filing the end of the dog bone that goes into the yoke.

May or may not help with the issue, but certainly makes the tail servos job much easier.

Team Align, Team Futaba, Team Byron Fuels, Team Thunder Power

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09-02-2014 11:41 PM  3 years agoPost 38
chopper37

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NJ and Long Island

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It always seems that the small brass spacers are just a micron to short and does cause some binding in that area.

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09-03-2014 12:55 AM  3 years agoPost 39
Trexwilly

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FL USA

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That's a big plus one!

That is exactly where I found my binding! And I knew right were to look, because I was testing as I built, and as soon as I thread locked those, the tail was not as smooth!

I re-did the yoke, and dog bones, this time I used red, and didn't tighten them hardly at all.

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09-03-2014 01:02 AM  3 years agoPost 40
chopper37

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NJ and Long Island

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Red loctite yes! I also re-made with my own brass tube from LHS, the loctite really buggers up that area but its needed.

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