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Home✈️Aircraft🚁HelicopterHelicopter Main Discussion › Shortening servo leads!! Yes? No?
07-01-2014 11:24 PM  6 years ago
pctomlin

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Texas

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If you want to shorten servo wires or build your own extensions go to servos and stuff. That is where I get all my supplies and you will not break the bank. There $16.95 crimpers work perfectly. If you don't have good eye sight get a good magnifying lamp.
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07-05-2014 04:21 PM  6 years ago
whitehedr

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New Lenox, Il USA

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The crimped connection is the best connection you can do to a wire. I worked for a large Electric Utility. When building power plants, both Fossil and Nuke, all the field wiring is crimped. No solder is ever used. When adding solder to a connection the connection becomes subject to failure at the point where the solder stops and the soldered wires begin. Vibration is the enemy of that point. The wire flexes at that point and eventually will fail. The crimpers used in construction are high quality and are maintained in a certified state for sure. But a good crimp can be done with a decent crimp tool obtained at the LHS or through a vendor such as Hansen.

Practice and proper wire prep is the key to a good crimp. Always use a good stripper. I prefer the No-Nik brand. This stripper will give a perfect strip every time. They are not cheap and you need one for each wire size you are working with. The guys that do fiber optic cable work use the No-Nik stripper.
http://www.techni-tool.com/680IE6200

I would NEVER solder a pin to a servo wire or use a wire that is tinned and then crimped to make the connection. It is Just bad procedure to do it that way.

If a QC inspector were to find a tinned and crimped connection in a Nuke Plant being built that connection would be failed instantly. And possibly ALL the connections performed by the technician that did the first one.

ROG
Retired Old Guy
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07-05-2014 05:00 PM  6 years ago
Four Stroker

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Atlanta

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I'll bet 99% of you guys who do great crimps with a $10~$40 crimper have never tested any of your crimps.
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07-05-2014 05:06 PM  6 years ago
whitehedr

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New Lenox, Il USA

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Yeah right Four Stroker, I am going to invest a bunch of money into a Heli and NOT test a crimp.

ROG
Retired Old Guy
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07-05-2014 05:28 PM  6 years ago
Four Stroker

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Atlanta

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And other than plugging it in and seeing if it works, how do you test your crimps ?
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07-06-2014 01:14 AM  6 years ago
Glenn Goodlett

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California

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I must be a 1% er. If you don't want to crimp or don't trust crimped connections, don't do it. Shorten at the other end, splice in the middle, or fold and coil wires. I've done all of these methods and none have failed me yet.
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07-06-2014 05:32 AM  6 years ago
whitehedr

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New Lenox, Il USA

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Stroker, I test my crimps two ways.

I visually inspect the crimps to see if there are conductors protruding slightly past the crimp, that there is insulation protruding into the bell mouth of the terminal, that the locking mechanism is not deformed and finally the crimp tabs are properly rolled into the conductor. I then give it a tug test to see if it stays on the wire end.

What I don't do is tug the terminal to destruction. I also don't measure the crimp height because I don't own the tooling to do that.

After that I do plug it in and see if it works.

Can you suggest some thing other than that on how a hobbiest might do a more thorough test of a crimp.

ROG
Retired Old Guy
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07-06-2014 07:10 AM  6 years ago
artimus

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Buckley WA

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inform us on how you test your crimps please. I would welcome any info the will make my helis more reilable...Fly Hard......Team Viagra
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07-06-2014 07:48 AM  6 years ago
Glenn Goodlett

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California

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I do what is stated above but then I also make several test crimps on scrap wire then pull until they fail. They seem to fail in three ways.

1) All or most strands pull through the crimp. Bad- Adjust crimper for a tighter crimp or replace dies or a bad wire size choice.

2) All or most strands break at the base of the crimp. Bad- Adjust crimper for a less tight crimp or debris in dies.

3) Some strands break at the crimp and some break back inside the insulated portion of the wire. Good crimp

Most importantly- If you cannot get good test crimps on the stuff you have don't start making crimps to be used in your aircraft.

Also, I've seen situations where the crimp fell into category 1 or 2 (above) but it took a lot of force to make the crimp fail, so I went with it any way.
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07-16-2014 04:55 AM  6 years ago
Poopfong

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Fort Walton Beach, FL USA

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Wanted to put my money where my mouth is.

Here you see a pin pulled randomly out of a connector from built leads that have accumulated in my Hansen kit, it is the 40 dollar crimping tool.

It is in fact a two stage crimp.

The orange represents the part crimp that holds the pin hugging the jacket. the green indicates where the pin is actually folded over into and sort of splits the conductor forming an incredibly solid bond. Critical that no strands are broken where the tighter crimp begins.

I agree the overage of copper material prevents an A+ grade, but I would give this an A-. This is safe for flight. In my opinion, solder would ruin this method.

I am avionics by trade and it took some trial and practice to get this result.

Respectfully,
Poop

Eglin Aeromodlers
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07-16-2014 03:24 PM  6 years ago
rexxigpilot

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rexxig2@comcast.net

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That's solid crimp connection. I agree that solder would do more harm than good.
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07-16-2014 05:50 PM  6 years ago
Triple-D TJ

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Buffalo, New York

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I shorten mine all the time. I crimp, then solder but be careful that you don't melt the wire.

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07-16-2014 06:35 PM  6 years ago
rexxigpilot

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Another problem with soldering is that the solder wicks up the multi-strand wire and makes it inflexible. If you try to minimize the wicking by applying less heat to the wire, you tend to end up with a cold solder joint, which fails. No need to solder, just do a proper crimp.
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07-16-2014 06:53 PM  6 years ago
Ace Dude

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USA

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A proper crimp does not require solder.  
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07-16-2014 07:33 PM  6 years ago
Triple-D TJ

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Buffalo, New York

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I don't disagree with those statements. It's simply added insurance, like gluing servo leads into your FBL unit. You shouldn't have to but you just do it anyway..
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07-16-2014 07:42 PM  6 years ago
Paulo Lopes

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South Africa

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Hi Guys, I shorten all my cables.
I crimp them and you cannot tell if it is a factory crimp or not.

Never had an issue but as some have said, You might not be able to use the same servo in another location.

To me, My helicopter needs to look as good as it flies.

"The things which are impossible with men are possible with God."
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07-16-2014 10:11 PM  6 years ago
Retired2011

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Lee's Summit, MO

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Soldering does more harm than good, to a properly crimped connection.
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11-14-2014 01:17 AM  5 years ago
Poopfong

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Fort Walton Beach, FL USA

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Enjoy. Just a refresher.

Watch at YouTube

Eglin Aeromodlers
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11-14-2014 02:27 AM  5 years ago
Retired2011

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Lee's Summit, MO

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Obviously, not the first time he's done that.
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11-14-2014 02:41 AM  5 years ago
Einzelganger

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Campbell, Texas

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Nice technique there.
Not a beginner.

Wayne
I love the smell of nitro in the morning.
RIP Roman
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Home✈️Aircraft🚁HelicopterHelicopter Main Discussion › Shortening servo leads!! Yes? No?
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