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T-REX 550 › BUILDING THE Trex 550E Pro DFC 730MX
06-24-2014 05:56 PM  3 years agoPost 1
HeliViewAerial

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Ormond Beach, FL

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So I just got the 550E Pro DFC Super Combo (730MX, Talon 90 and 3GX). I've been reading some threads on here about build quality, whether or not to use Talon 90, where to mount the ESC, etc etc. All seems pretty typical with "new" helicopters and their consumers. Mine however is still in the box, starting build tonight when I get home..

My question(s): 1) Should I do a build video? There's a few build videos out there of nearly every kit, including the Align 550E, but I couldn't find one of the "newest" DFC kit with 730MX, 550mm blades and Talon 90. Would people like to see that? Even worth doing? lol

2) If anyone reading this has built this exact kit, anything you found (except for tail rod being too short) that might save me a little time? I'm using my Ice2 120HV and Mini V-Bar as well.

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06-24-2014 06:13 PM  3 years agoPost 2
JEEPWORLD2002/2

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Blue Bell, Pa

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would love to here about ur exp with the 730mx and how its doing with the ice2hv i was gonna get the 730 mx for my logo what diameter is the motor ? what size shaft ?

Trex600n,Trex500,MR25,MikadoLoGo5003d/KDE,Goblin 380XNova,CastleCreations,Ys,JR XG8,Tags Mini XBus Dmss//FAA# FA3NYC9TAP

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06-24-2014 06:39 PM  3 years agoPost 3
HeliViewAerial

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Ormond Beach, FL

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6mm shaft, 55.5mm long and 52mm wide. The frame plates in this kit have been made to accommodate the larger "700 class" motor, so this IS in fact a different kit than the previous 550 DFC, not just slapping on a 600 boom and bigger motor.

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06-24-2014 07:15 PM  3 years agoPost 4
lightningrc

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UK

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To get full travel you Need to use 4th hole not third as states and I still had to wind end points out to 125 but backed down to 110 on first flight as tail was balestic.
Leave the servo rubbers off on tail servo and when you fit servo arm bias away from the tail box slightly by trying different horn positions , going against wat we have all learned keeping veering thing at 90 .
If not it will hit tail case and bind before tail binds .
It does fly nice :-)

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06-24-2014 07:42 PM  3 years agoPost 5
HeliViewAerial

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Ormond Beach, FL

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To get full travel you Need to use 4th hole not third as states and I still had to wind end points out to 125 but backed down to 110 on first flight as tail was balestic.
Leave the servo rubbers off on tail servo
THANKS! I'll definitely do that. But by 4th hole, are you referring to the holes on the servo horn? As far as the 90 degree thing and your travel limits(atv) on the tail, I'm assuming you are using the provided 3GX? I'm using VStabi which sets the limits via computer software, not in the Tx itself.

IMPORTANT: About the entire tail setup.. No one has mentioned where they are INITIALLY attempting to set the tail pitch at when zero rudder input is given. Some people measure 1/2 the slider distance, some 1/3, some people use blades directly center while looking down on them as they're folded over one another, and some (me included) begin the pushrod distance and servo "centering" while the blades are appx 10 degree opposite providing clockwise anti rotor-torque (to the right). The concept behind this is to set the torque compensation where it will hover without spinning in RATE mode, therefor requiring ZERO (theoretically) gain while at hover. This would differ your 4th hole from the 3rd, or the difficulty setting ATV, more so the uneven yaw rates and tail-stops (or rebound even). We rely too much on the computers to muscle our machines "right" in my very, very humble opinion. (sorry for the rant, this is the "why" to what most people already know about the "how" on tail setup). fwew..

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06-24-2014 08:34 PM  3 years agoPost 6
lightningrc

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UK

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Yes 4th hole on servo horn and no I've always set my tails by getting the horn on tail at 90 and you will have aprox 10 degrees on tail as center .
You know when you have center spot on also when you can set both end points to the same and get full travel , obviously if center is wrong it will bind one end .

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06-24-2014 09:00 PM  3 years agoPost 7
HeliViewAerial

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Ormond Beach, FL

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Ok, just doing a "same page" check, lol. So I'll leave the rubber grommets out of the servo while mounting and use the 4th hole on the horn. I really do appreciate it!

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06-24-2014 11:08 PM  3 years agoPost 8
lightningrc

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UK

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No problem , don't forget you will need atleast one longer link also on tail rod , I used a quick UK one other wise there's not much thread left :-( .
You end up
Winding them pretty much all the way on then and works perfect

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06-24-2014 11:15 PM  3 years agoPost 9
HeliViewAerial

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Ormond Beach, FL

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I have like 3 bags of rods/ends. Something's gotta work! I've started using a drop of CA then heat shrinking links once I get the measurements right, like most do on nitro throttle linkages. A piece of mind more than anything I suppose.

Still, SHOULD I DO A BUILD VIDEO?

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06-24-2014 11:53 PM  3 years agoPost 10
lightningrc

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UK

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I use CA if the links are close to ends but honestly these were way to close to falling off .
No one seems to want a video :-(

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06-25-2014 02:22 AM  3 years agoPost 11
HeliViewAerial

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Ormond Beach, FL

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Here's my converted Trex 600 to a 550 DFC, please check classifieds if anyone in interested. Making room on the table for the new 550 build..

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06-25-2014 06:32 AM  3 years agoPost 12
Poopfong

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Fort Walton Beach, FL USA

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Thanks HVA for offering.

You should do a video. Even if it is sped up during the mundane (same on every build) assembly sections. There are some areas that could be highlighted, especially when it comes to the motor/ESC arrangement. Perfect mechanical setup would also be helpful.

My build was pretty straight forward and by the book. I used some helioption frame gear, so slightly above stock. I did have to decide on how to skin the ESC cat.
https://rc.runryder.com/t762139p1/

I also bought an extra frame gyro mount. I have position 1 and 2 populated. Gyro is on the top and receiver on the bottom. I could have used the floor without pos 2, but the frame stiffeners run side to side across the floor.

If you are using the bigger ESC, I think you will be going with a different power config but I'm pretty sure you will have to add wire between the ESC and the motor (motor wires on the 730mx are very short). Being a noob, I was unafraid to use the Talon. I sent in for the free programming widget, set it for 6V and have had no problems with my 3GX/Futaba SBUS combo. I figured the constant 9 Amp BEC in the Talon was more than enough to cover the stall current of all servos + electronics draw.

To add to the tail discussion, I had no problem with the tail
installation, it works. The servo, rod, and connecting links all worked as the manual states. I used the servo (I think it is the 655) with the supplied mounts, isolators, horns, balls and links. The set up of the horns was servo 90 degrees and tail arm 90 degrees in DIR mode and the rod initially was in fact showing excessive thread. When adjusted in for pre-trim (10mm) and then tweaked in a little more in flight for no movement in rate/norm mode, I found myself screwing the links in until 3 to 5 threads (alternating front and back) show, a more acceptable situation (required another travel set). HH was always perfect. I used the Digipitch iphone app which has cross hairs superimposed over a video picture, just stick the screw at the center and you can get a perfect 90 on the arm in relation tot he servo. I had to set the rudder travel on the 3GX several times to get it just right without squealing. Vbar I'm guessing is the same only different.

I am not a smack down pilot but have performed some significantly high current drawing maneuvers/recoveries and have seen no adverse consequences or brown outs. It flies better at higher throttle/headspeed (as both my helos do). Also, it seems to be very solid (might be due to the frame stuff). I have no frame of reference with the difference with 600mx so no comparison is available.

I'm pleased with my 550 and if it didn't take so long at the field to charge the 5000mah batteries, I would fly it more. Open to your questions. Thanks again -Poop

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06-25-2014 08:30 AM  3 years agoPost 13
lightningrc

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UK

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Poop
I can see the solution to the tail as I looked at your pics .
You didn't say you fitted the ally tail servo mount .
The servo now looks lower plus they prob moved it away slightly from the tail box because of the binding issue .
Also then the rod would be correct length .
HVA
I would get that ally mount ready for the build , if you do let us know if it's the answer thanks

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06-25-2014 10:03 AM  3 years agoPost 14
Poopfong

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Fort Walton Beach, FL USA

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I didn't pay much attention to it when I installed it but I stripped a screw in the plastic one. While at the hobby store for something else I asked if they had it and they did :-). I just looked at them side by side and they are identical in size, shape, and height. It screws in to the same holes. The only difference is plastic vs. aluminum. IMO it is not a smoking gun solution. The gap on top is small, but acceptable.

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06-25-2014 10:37 AM  3 years agoPost 15
lightningrc

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UK

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Well it def looks nicer .
You have done a nice quality build also

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06-25-2014 01:22 PM  3 years agoPost 16
HeliViewAerial

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Ormond Beach, FL

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Poop, thanks for sharing and uploading those pics as well! I'm going to do a build video but it won't be the step-by-step version. I'll show the box, the manual, then basically install together page by page, showing completion at the end of each page, idk.... I'm using everything stock that it comes with, no ally parts or hop-ups (except ESC,FBL). I'll begin the build tonight, due to "wife issues" I didn't get a chance to open the box last night. Yet, I did stare at it during dinner, the entire dinner. Lol

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06-25-2014 09:36 PM  3 years agoPost 17
HeliViewAerial

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Ormond Beach, FL

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HERE IT IS
Here's the kit, I think it's the newest version with the "new" greenish-blue canopy...? Looks nice! I'll begin the build and build video tonight. Thanks guys for the input and advice, HAPPY FLYING!

PS- Check my youtube channel for the build video and test flights in the next couple of days. Type in HELIVIEWAERIAL , maybe even subscribe? lol

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06-26-2014 07:29 AM  3 years agoPost 18
Poopfong

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Fort Walton Beach, FL USA

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OOOHH Green canopy!! looks noice!!

Mine is old already!!

My Fleet

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06-26-2014 08:55 AM  3 years agoPost 19
Poopfong

rrNovice

Fort Walton Beach, FL USA

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And in the realm of mods worth having, Try these QRs for the canopy.
I used the stock grommets for a day and the paint started cracking around the holes. You have to glue/attach a plastic piece before the grommets go on. It made the attach points better. That lower clip is the best ever though. I think it helps ease in removing and installing the canopy.

Product Code: HPAT55001
http://www.helihobby.com/media/cata...hpat55001-2.jpg

Product Code: HAPT55002
http://www.helihobby.com/media/cata...ntitled_3_2.png

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06-26-2014 11:38 AM  3 years agoPost 20
HeliViewAerial

rrNovice

Ormond Beach, FL

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Nice! Will do, thanks!

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