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HomeAircraftHelicopterFlybarless Rotor Head SystemsFutaba CGY News  New Futaba CGY750 Software Ver. 1.4x
06-27-2014 10:27 PM  3 years agoPost 61
lunitac

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beckley, wv

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Well took it up in a real good hover today and it is solid as a rock.... I'm very impressed that a software update could make so much difference

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06-27-2014 10:52 PM  3 years agoPost 62
Kevin Dalrymple

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Indianapolis

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I moved mine to 11 degrees because Dr Ben said the cyclic rate might need more head room because it pitches up bad in FFF. But I think 11 is to high and I don't like the feel. It feels better at 9. Maybe Dr Ben can explain it better in detail.

Synergy Field Rep Rail Blades Field Rep

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06-28-2014 12:28 AM  3 years agoPost 63
MikeG4936

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Irving, TX

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I moved mine to 11 degrees because Dr Ben said the cyclic rate might need more head room because it pitches up bad in FFF. But I think 11 is to high and I don't like the feel. It feels better at 9. Maybe Dr Ben can explain it better in detail.
Not a good idea. You want to keep the Swash Rate at 10+ degrees (11+ if possible) so the gyro has enough headroom to compensate during flight.

If you don't like the feel, you can slow things down/speed things up with Dual Rates on your transmitter, or use CYC.Rate in the Flight tuning menu...

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06-28-2014 01:04 AM  3 years agoPost 64
lunitac

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beckley, wv

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Doesn't dropping your roll rate also slow it down as well? Not sure just wondering

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06-29-2014 12:55 AM  3 years agoPost 65
Kevin Dalrymple

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Indianapolis

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Flew the 750 with the update. Set the cyclic pitch to 10 degrees. Flew great. No negative flight tendencies at all. I love the way the N7 flips and Rolls.

Great update.

Synergy Field Rep Rail Blades Field Rep

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07-01-2014 06:43 PM  3 years agoPost 66
kineticheli

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Turlock, CA

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Got a chance to fly it with cyclic set to 10­°. It flew much better, doesn't bog with cyclic input. It is still fast for me though, turned it down to 250° per sec. and still fast enough for me.

Citizen #130

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07-01-2014 07:12 PM  3 years agoPost 67
MikeG4936

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Irving, TX

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I would turn your cyclic rate up to 11 degrees, then add a bunch of expo in your TX to slow it down.

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07-02-2014 06:02 PM  3 years agoPost 68
kineticheli

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Turlock, CA

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Got a few more flights in, but not loving the way it feels in flight. It holds well and doesn't bobble or bounce. It just feels loose. Should I turn up my gain more, at 65%, or is there another setting that I tune?

Citizen #130

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07-02-2014 10:14 PM  3 years agoPost 69
Kevin Dalrymple

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Indianapolis

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You will need to adjust the gain to help the hi hold. I turn mine up until I get a bobble on AlE or ElE. Then back it down 2-3 points.

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07-02-2014 11:28 PM  3 years agoPost 70
bobc1

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Southern California

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I'm still digging the V 1.4 but we have noticed one thing that could be better.

We have been flying identical nitro G4's (actually Glenn's is a 4.1 but for these purposes they are the same), mine with the 750, Glenn's has V-Bar.

We have flown these back to back, same conditions, and noticed that the 750 will slowly yaw to the right and roll to the left while doing standard, nose up, canopy in, tic toc's.

The V-Bar does not require any rudder or aileron correction to maintain the same yaw and roll position. Not a big deal, but after around four tic toc's with no rudder or aileron input, I must correct with left rudder and right aileron to maintain the same initial attitude.

I re-read the entire 4.1 manual and the only thing that I could see that may address this is the FF in the rudder expert menu, which, after a few tries, I set to 20% with 10% acceleration factor. This setting pretty well maintains a yaw heading while pitch pumping both in upright and inverted level hovering attitudes.

But...this actually would make the problem worse as the correction during tic toc's requires left rudder, not right. It really did not change the yaw tendency during tic toc's at all from FF inhibited.

With regard to the roll tendency, all I could find was the I-Gain in Aileron Expert menu that may make it more fixed in it's roll attitude while pitch and elevator pumping. I increased the Aileron I-Gain from 80% to 90% without any difference either.

It's a minor complaint but I'll bet that there is some way to adjust this out through the 750 settings.

One other observation is that the tail seems to move slightly while pushing the heli from its back to upright while tic toc'ing but remains stationary during the portion from upright to its back. The roll is really hard to see whether it rolls during both the tic and toc or during only one portion.

Any ideas?

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07-07-2014 09:59 PM  3 years agoPost 71
bobc1

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Southern California

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Apparently I'm the only cat on the block with this issue. I double checked all the linkage compensation settings also but could not find any problems.

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07-11-2014 02:52 AM  3 years agoPost 72
Glenn Goodlett

rrApprentice

California

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Someone asked almost the same question in the vbar section on HF. The discussion just turned into some weird pissing match so there is no info to gain except that in some circumstances vbar can do the same thing.

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07-11-2014 03:31 AM  3 years agoPost 73
bobc1

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Southern California

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I reset the Rudder settings to default after flying today. The only thing that I have changed from default is reducing the max piro rate from 720 to 450 and increasing the expo from -20 to -30.

I doubt this will cure the problem but it is worth a try.

It is annoying to continually have to add correction while tic toc'ing.

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07-18-2014 11:55 PM  3 years agoPost 74
wjvail

rrKey Veteran

Meridian, Mississippi

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Anyone have time for a few random questions...?

In no particular order:

** On page 14 of the manual, under flight tuning, step #(7) it seems most are recommending setting the Exponential to zero in the 750 and using the transmitters exponential to achieve the same results. I believe I read Ben mention that setting exponential in both the 750 and transmitter would result in an additive effect with undesirable results. It of course is much easier to set the exp in the TX. Now the question - do we recommend the same for the rudder? Page 20 of the manual, rudder gyro expert menu, step (4), is rudder exponential - and for my setup (Sports-AVCS) the default value is -60%. Do we recommend setting that to zero and adjusting EXPO and feel around neutral with the transmitter, like the swash?

** Page 14, flight tuning map, step (4), aileron gain separation... The default is 6 points but this also seems better set in the transmitter. My 18MZ has all gains for all three axis listed on one convenient page and imposing a split in the 750 seems artificial. I can see where this function might be beneficial if setting the gains wasn't as convenient as it is on the Futaba 18MZ. But like setting Exponential in both the TX and 750, this seems to only muddy the issue. Is there some reason I don't see for not setting this to zero at the 750 and setting the gains in the TX?

** The next question is a governor question. On this install I have both stick switching and the Governor on/off switch enabled. Page 17, step (7) applies here. The first few flights I noticed the governor was not engaging at takeoff but if I cycled the Gov on/off switch, the governor came on and performed well. Every flight the helicopter will pick up into a hover with the governor off but cycling off/on will bring the governor on line. Pouring through the manual is says in the lower left corner of page 18 "The on/off switch conditions are set to off during power on." Does this imply that I should expect to either power the 750 up with the gov on/off switch in the off position then turn in on and/or cycle the governor on/off switch some time after power up? This is not how the GV-1 functioned (a governor I'm much more familiar with) but the GV-1 is from a time before electric heli's became common.

Below are some fun pictures to look at.

Cheers,

Bill

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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07-19-2014 01:42 AM  3 years agoPost 75
Clarence Creer

rrVeteran

Fort Worth, Texas

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** On page 14 of the manual, under flight tuning, step #(7) it seems most are recommending setting the Exponential to zero in the 750 and using the transmitters exponential to achieve the same results. I believe I read Ben mention that setting exponential in both the 750 and transmitter would result in an additive effect with undesirable results. It of course is much easier to set the exp in the TX. Now the question - do we recommend the same for the rudder? Page 20 of the manual, ruder gyro expert menu, step (4), is rudder exponential - and for my setup (Sports-AVCS) the default value is -60%. Do we recommend setting that to zero and adjusting EXPO and feel around neutral with the transmitter, like the swash?
With 1.4 it is recommended that you leave the expo that is default in the CGY 750 and use your TX for additional expo. Yes, expo in both.

Team Kontronik Team minicopter/PeakAircraft
VTeam EvoPowerBattery

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07-19-2014 02:06 PM  3 years agoPost 76
wjvail

rrKey Veteran

Meridian, Mississippi

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With 1.4 it is recommended that you leave the expo that is default in the CGY 750 and use your TX for additional expo. Yes, expo in both.
Thanks Clarence. That was not the answer I expected.

Bill

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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07-21-2014 11:17 PM  3 years agoPost 77
lunitac

rrApprentice

beckley, wv

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Well I finally got to really spend time with the update today, now granted I'm no 3d master, just barely a sport flyer but I love it.... It's leaps and bounds over the last version.... I'm very pleased... I feel a lot more connected to my Heli now which is a big confidence booster

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07-28-2014 03:39 PM  3 years agoPost 78
wjvail

rrKey Veteran

Meridian, Mississippi

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A few more questions.. I've been flying this new software a bit more and really like it. I will confess I didn't fly the 750 before the release of V1.40 but I like this so much I've been pulling out another brand of FBL controller and installing 750s. Soooo... My questions aren't so much criticisms but more intended to get the most from the unit.

** Question one. On page #19 of the 1.40 manual there is a suggestion to fly the model in Normal (vs. AVCS) and use the trims to stabilize the model. Then put the 750 back in AVCS and leave the trims where they are. So here's the question: Would it be better to adjust the linkages rather than trim? For instance - If the heli requires back and left stick in Normal mode for a stationary hover, would it be better to adjust the links to the swash to center the sticks? The manual seems to suggest adjusting the pushrod for trimming the rudder but not for trimming the swash.

** I pulled another brand of FBL controller out of my .90 fuel heli and noticed an immediate jump in battery usage. I went from about 250mAh per flight to between 450 and 500mAh per flight. Same servos but I did swap out receivers for a Futaba R7008SB at when I installed the 750. Anyone else see the same? I have a 4,000mAh battery in the helicopter so I'm not worried about flight time. I just find it curious that battery usage is up so markedly.

Cheers,

Bill

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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07-28-2014 05:25 PM  3 years agoPost 79
MikeG4936

rrNovice

Irving, TX

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For the head, I would just stick it in normal, do the trim process, and go back to AVCS.

Since the PID algorithms were reworked in 1.4, I'm assuming the greater holding power comes at the cost of more electricity used.

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08-29-2014 05:23 PM  3 years agoPost 80
ibrahimshehata

rrNovice

Rio de Janeiro, RJ - Brazil

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Hi

I have had always a doubt about memorizing the pitch stick positions into the Swash Basic menu of the CGY750. For the Low and and High stick position I have no doubt, but for the 0 degree Pitch stick position I have a doubt, is it the actual blade 0 pitch stick position or the Half pitch stick position?

For 3D flight the actual 0 degree blade pitch stick position is the same as the Half pitch stick position, but in Scale flying the actual 0 blade pitch stick position is not the Half pitch stick position, so in this case which one to be memorized in the CGY750?

Regards.

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HomeAircraftHelicopterFlybarless Rotor Head SystemsFutaba CGY News  New Futaba CGY750 Software Ver. 1.4x
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