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04-11-2014 02:14 AM  4 years agoPost 21
coolingfan

rrVeteran

Grand Junction, Colorado

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No I took a look at the helibug Website and the pictures show caps screws with washer. They however failed to supply those. Says in the description nothing else is needed if you purchased the complete kit. That's ok. I have plenty of cap screws and washer left of from previous builds I've done over the years. No worries, just removed screws and replaced with cap screws.
those are needed later in the build to attach the motor to the side frames.

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04-11-2014 09:30 AM  4 years agoPost 22
rcheli808

rrApprentice

Mililani,Hi-USA

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Hmmmm.....just my observation and I may be wrong..... but to me.....that screw you have in the your picture looks like a socket head collar screw that I would normally use on my Trex 600 side frame and the screws that the Helibug site instruction picture for that step shows a regular socket head screw with a washer.

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04-11-2014 11:53 AM  4 years agoPost 23
rcnut

rrElite Veteran

Rockford, Illinois

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When I bought my Trex700N, it too came with those socket head screws. In a short time frame, it became a challenge to remove them as the depth of the allen head was shallow and that caused them to strip out. Then I replaced them with Quick UK Trex 600-700 M3 Shouldered Screw Caps.

If your HeliBug kit doesn't have the enlarged holes for the stock socket Align shouldered screws, then use regular cap head screws.

Team Miniature Aircraft
"I love the smell of Nitro in the morning!"
...Citizen 654!

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04-11-2014 02:38 PM  4 years agoPost 24
coolingfan

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Grand Junction, Colorado

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I have question about the fuel fittings that come in the Trex 700 kit. Are they gas safe? I know I have to replace the fuel line. But what about the fittings are they gas safe?

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04-11-2014 03:36 PM  4 years agoPost 25
Pistol Pete

rrProfessor

Seffner, FL

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You need to replace the plug...google sullivan gas stopper

found the "nice" one

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...1P?I=LXBWL6&P=8

or just this one

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXD755&P=M

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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04-11-2014 03:53 PM  4 years agoPost 26
coolingfan

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Grand Junction, Colorado

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I am not sure this will work in the stock align tank that comes in the kit. That is what I will be using!

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04-11-2014 04:06 PM  4 years agoPost 27
Pistol Pete

rrProfessor

Seffner, FL

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My bad...this is better
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=294961

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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04-12-2014 02:16 PM  4 years agoPost 28
coolingfan

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Grand Junction, Colorado

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Here is some of the my build photos so far. Excuse the messy work area.

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04-12-2014 06:00 PM  4 years agoPost 29
rcheli808

rrApprentice

Mililani,Hi-USA

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Looking Good........!

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04-13-2014 02:35 PM  4 years agoPost 30
coolingfan

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Grand Junction, Colorado

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I was working hooking of the electronics yesterday. Trying to hook up throttle. Any suggestions on that? Seems alot different then nitro. I am using a Futaba 8fg radio with sbus receiver. Since servo range is considerably more then the range of the throttle arm on the Zenoah engine. I tried decreasing end points, but didn't really seem to help. I going to try a small round servo wheel today and adjust end points on the radio and see if I can find a solution. All other leakages are almost complete.

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04-13-2014 03:00 PM  4 years agoPost 31
rcnut

rrElite Veteran

Rockford, Illinois

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II used the 5 arm servo horn and the second hole out from the center. I want to say (without looking it up in the radio), my end points are 95/97?

Team Miniature Aircraft
"I love the smell of Nitro in the morning!"
...Citizen 654!

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04-13-2014 04:52 PM  4 years agoPost 32
coolingfan

rrVeteran

Grand Junction, Colorado

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Thanks, I give that a try!!

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04-13-2014 06:13 PM  4 years agoPost 33
rcheli808

rrApprentice

Mililani,Hi-USA

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This might help......there is a diagram in this thread that helped me a lot.
htt://rc.runryder.com/t...hlight=Malories

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04-14-2014 12:39 AM  4 years agoPost 34
coolingfan

rrVeteran

Grand Junction, Colorado

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The return spring on the Zenoah carb should that be removed or is ok to leave.

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04-14-2014 08:49 AM  4 years agoPost 35
rcheli808

rrApprentice

Mililani,Hi-USA

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I left mine on for safety......

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04-15-2014 05:43 AM  4 years agoPost 36
coolingfan

rrVeteran

Grand Junction, Colorado

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After I posted. I thought the same thing. If in event of crash and link was to pop off. Then going to idle would be much then full throttle. I had that happen on a nitro once. Before I could get to it the engine blew. What about the idle screw? I thought heard of others removing this screw. Since idle will be determine by the radio setup.

Any one know where to get the Century V2 Slim muffler. other then Century. Seems no one else has then in stock and from what I can tell are no longer going to carry them! What gives?

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04-15-2014 09:21 AM  4 years agoPost 37
rcnut

rrElite Veteran

Rockford, Illinois

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Century raised their prices on the V2 pipe…$150. There is another company that doesn't carry Century any more. I guess I'll look else where when the time comes.

Team Miniature Aircraft
"I love the smell of Nitro in the morning!"
...Citizen 654!

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04-15-2014 11:54 PM  4 years agoPost 38
coolingfan

rrVeteran

Grand Junction, Colorado

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I was looking at the gap between the clutch bell and the Autorotation drive gear and it isn't much. I am worried that the autorotation gear could rub on the clutch bell. I was thinking I might need a shim between the pinion and bell where they meet. Any thoughts on that?

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04-16-2014 11:33 AM  4 years agoPost 39
Rototerrier

rrVeteran

Fayetteville, GA - USA

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Fuel Tank
The 2 stoppers that come with the 700 tank are gas compatible. The only problem you will have is the leaking center plug. The holes are either too big or are out of round or the stopper is too small or a combination of all.

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=606335

You can use my method for sealing the center hole, or you can seal up the stopper with some form of fuel proof rtv, or you can get the quick uk version of what I did or you can even ream out the hole and go with a full size dubro gas stopper.

I prefer the cheap and easy method I linked to above. I have two gassers i've been running on the skid plug method and haven't had a single issue for a very long time.

Gassers Rule, Nitros Drool, Electrics...uhhh...Joule?

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04-16-2014 01:43 PM  4 years agoPost 40
coolingfan

rrVeteran

Grand Junction, Colorado

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Look at these photos and tell me if this gap looks ok to you? There isn't much. My fear is that the clutch hub and autorotation gear may rub on each other. I was thinking of removing the clutch bell and Pinion assembly and installing a spacer between them. This should give addition space and peace of mind. Anyone had this issue before?

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