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03-10-2014 12:26 PM  4 years agoPost 21
PETER ROB

rrElite Veteran

Devon UK

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A true autorotation
What do you call an autorotation, if the engine is powering anything then it is not a true auto
A true auto in the model world ( can not speak for the full size)is a complete loss of power or drive, when the tail blades stop half way down (Vario range)then you are autorotating

If a helicopter will not come down on a windy day then push the nose down until the wind is on top of the blades, then fly it down
Peter R

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03-10-2014 01:34 PM  4 years agoPost 22
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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Different Pitch Curves.....
Peter, in response to your question, I do have my hold switch set up to kill the power...
As for the pitch curves, I do leave them all set the same...
So, yes, I do fly with my set up at -4, 5.5, 12... I give the heli, what it needs, when it needs it.. this really comes into play with gusty winds..

With this said, and for others that think that the machine will fall out of the sky using -4.. if you were to just drop the pitch to all the down, you can bet that it is going to head for mother earth rather quickly!!!!
Even in a forced auto, you still need to fly the entire heli!!! By that, I mean that you/I do not stop flying until everything stops moving once you are on the ground...

For pilots that do not like the range that I use, it can adjusted to their preference, very easily, by just "tweaking" the pitch curves.. possibly -1, 5.5, 10/11 for normal (or idle up) flying...and then in the hold setting, -4, 5.5, 12...But as Peter mentions, sometimes finding that hold switch is just not the first thing that you will think of in a forced auto situation...but the larger spread on the pitch will definitely help you to "possibly" at the least, LIMIT the damage...

In my own case, I do use the hold switch, and am VERY used to using it. I started this mostly when I started flying electric power... I noticed that the faster you can kill the power, the lesser amount of damage...
The way that I hold my Tx lets me rest my small finger right behind the switch, so I do not hunt for it, but activate it almost by instinct...

As mentioned in an earlier post, each heli needs it's own settings.. and that is mostly pilot preference in the end...

To me an auto, forced or practice, is with the power off.. and even with a tail gear box blowing out just after take off, as soon as I realized I had a problem, hold was set, and I was able to finish the turn back towards me using aileron, and set the heli down with no damage... and to date, I have had 4 emergency type auto's, and "luckily" all without incident..

For me, if a tail box gives up and your heli is doing piro's, I practice climbing while still piro'ing, until I get to a comfortable altitude to let me do an auto, using the full pitch range that I have.. and by killing the power, the heli does become a lot more controllable.. drop the nose a bit, set your pitch so that the head actually is gaining speed instead of bleeding off, steer with the ailerons and bring it home!!! Sounds a lot easier then it is, UNLESS you practice A LOT.. and I do this with a pod and boom heli!!!!!

My settings might be better for the "more" experienced flyer, but it really is not a hard set up to learn, and for me, all of my machines are set the same...
Hope this will help clear up some of the questions that some might have.
It is going to be a BEAUTIFUL day here today, so, I am going flying...
Thanks, Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

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03-10-2014 04:55 PM  4 years agoPost 23
PETER ROB

rrElite Veteran

Devon UK

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Stan, Thanks for that
It has filled all the gaps that have been missing from our other post's

Must agree with climbing out after loosing your tail, height is the savoir with forced autos
Peter R

We had a very good weekend 2 flying days, the first for months

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