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HomeAircraftHelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersEngines › G240RC breake in and crank lock
11-03-2013 03:48 PM  4 years agoPost 1
mustang67ford

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Central Pennsylvania

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I have tried to search for the proper break-in proceedure for a G240RC but couldn't locate. What is the proper break-in proceedure, fuel, oil, ratio, gallons, varying RPM, etc? As for fuel and oil, I haven't gotten that far in my research. I know the guys at my field that fly gas planks are using avation grade fuel so maybe I'll use that.

I was thinking of building a wooden stand to breake the motor in on before installing in the heli so it is properly broken in when I first fire the heli up. Anybody else ever do this? Should I run a propeller on it and ger RPM reading as well or run it unloaded?

As for when the time comes for installing the clutch, how do I lock the crank? Do I ned to buy a crank lock from daves motor sports or is there an alternative.

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11-03-2013 04:56 PM  4 years agoPost 2
Kos

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Athens, Greece

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Do I ned to buy a crank lock from daves motor sports or is there an alternative.
you can insert a length of rope from the glow plug hole and fill in the chamber...it is soft and does not damage the metals...

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11-03-2013 07:45 PM  4 years agoPost 3
geomecc

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Long Island ,NY

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def don't run it unloaded other than idle! get some regular 2stroke oil (non synthetic) mix at 32:1 and run that for 2 gallons fly real easy at around 1500 hs 1600 and 1650 fly in normal the first couple tanks then switch norm to id1 and 2 every couple minuets then idle for a minit then hover some more etc keep the h needle rich set the l needle where it idles and accelerates decent like 1-3/8 on low and 1-1/2 on high needle. after gallon 2 u can switch to a synthetic oil not richer than 32:1 and then u can fly around but be easy on the engine every gallon after u can tune for more power but I think it's pretty good to go after the 3rd or 4th gallon. the first gallon will go quick the 2nd will seem like forever but have patience

R I P Roman Jr. Team SKOOKUM SRW EFC

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11-04-2013 12:32 AM  4 years agoPost 4
mustang67ford

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Central Pennsylvania

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That will take a while to burn thru that much gas. Can i put a prop on it and do this on a bench and jist hook a mechanical lever to the throttle to vary the RPMs? Also, i have my normal and idle up set the same above half stick with my nitros. On difference to idle up is the reversed throttle curvr below mid stick.

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11-04-2013 01:25 AM  4 years agoPost 5
geomecc

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yes u can put it on a stand with a prop. it might seem like a while to do it in the heli but u will be flying so it's kinda relative. I think the engine will be sufficiently broke in by the second gallon just don't beat on it for the first 3 gallons. is all. the throttle curve is different than a nitro a nitro is more linear and a gasser is way lower due to the engine making the most difference in throttle between idle and half where as nitro is the whole way.

R I P Roman Jr. Team SKOOKUM SRW EFC

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11-04-2013 03:56 AM  4 years agoPost 6
mustang67ford

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Central Pennsylvania

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Well, as you know the weather we get here in the north, there isin't much to do during the winter. Since i don't fly During the winter, i could tolerate bench running the motor for a few tanks at our field. Do you know what size prop i should use and what bolt to use to bolt it on?

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11-04-2013 03:22 PM  4 years agoPost 7
fastflyer20

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N. Tonawanda, NY

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Zenoah makes a prop adapter

A prop around 14-6 will work

Tom
CAUTION - my posts are based on my experiences, yours may be different.

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11-04-2013 05:13 PM  4 years agoPost 8
mustang67ford

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Central Pennsylvania

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Thanks,

I think I'll break it in some this way, at least for a gallon. Do I need to constantly change the RPMs, do I ever rev it up to full rpm, and can it be ran continuously for a gallon or does it need some cooling time?

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11-04-2013 05:50 PM  4 years agoPost 9
fastflyer20

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N. Tonawanda, NY

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Keep it 10K and under for the first gallon, most likely 1/2 throttle to hit 10k

Vary the load

Run for 5 minutes then allow to cool down, heat cycling is very important.

Tom
CAUTION - my posts are based on my experiences, yours may be different.

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11-05-2013 12:19 AM  4 years agoPost 10
mustang67ford

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Central Pennsylvania

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Thanks for the info. I loomed up the prop adapter on horizon hobby. It would cost about $50 in parts to put a prop on it. This has me rethinking.

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11-05-2013 02:24 AM  4 years agoPost 11
strat1960s

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San Antonio Texas

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Mustang
look up RM3 on run ryder. He's a gasser guru!

Ted

I always have fun. Some times are more fun than others.

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11-05-2013 03:28 AM  4 years agoPost 12
geomecc

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Long Island ,NY

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the first gallon will go quick the second not so quick

R I P Roman Jr. Team SKOOKUM SRW EFC

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11-05-2013 04:07 AM  4 years agoPost 13
rhodesengr

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Pleasanton, CA USA

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There are various opinions on how to break in a Zenoah. I recently bought a BH Hanson modified G290RC. He recommends using Penzoil Marine full Synthetic at 32:1 from the get-go and just take it easy for the first gallon. Toxic Marine has a different protocol using non synth first and then switching to synth. I have followed the Hanson method and it seems to be working fine. The other thing is to error a little on the rich side with the needles even if its a little rough.

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11-05-2013 12:45 PM  4 years agoPost 14
fastflyer20

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N. Tonawanda, NY

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Agree, there are may ways to break in an engine.

But it comes down to three elements:
Needle settings
Load
RPM's

I have found it easiest to run a little rich, but at low RPM's, this makes it hard to overload/overheat. Pushing a new engine too soon is a recipe for low power output or worse.

If your style of flying does not push the engine, then break in can be just a few steps less than "normal". If you fly harder and rev the engine up more once broken in, then break in seems like a totally different process.

Flying at lower head speeds has become fun, even for regular flying. Having idle 1 around 1400 and idle 2 at 1950-2050 gives two totally different perspectives.

Syn oils give great protection but take longer to break in.

Tom
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11-05-2013 05:47 PM  4 years agoPost 15
geomecc

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Long Island ,NY

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Agree, there are may ways to break in an engine.
But it comes down to three elements:
Needle settings
Load
RPM's
I have found it easiest to run a little rich, but at low RPM's, this makes it hard to overload/overheat. Pushing a new engine too soon is a recipe for low power output or worse.
If your style of flying does not push the engine, then break in can be just a few steps less than "normal". If you fly harder and rev the engine up more once broken in, then break in seems like a totally different process.
i agree. if u do sport flying then its easy just no inverted stuff no loops etc just cruise around like a sunday drive till the end of the 2nd gallon then gradually mix in some tricks somewhere in the 3rd gall u will be good to go.

R I P Roman Jr. Team SKOOKUM SRW EFC

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11-05-2013 05:51 PM  4 years agoPost 16
geomecc

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Long Island ,NY

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also do a search on the malory gasser throttle setup that will help overall and explain the difference ofthrottle between gas and nitro if u havent already.

R I P Roman Jr. Team SKOOKUM SRW EFC

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11-06-2013 03:10 AM  4 years agoPost 17
mustang67ford

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Central Pennsylvania

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Thanks for all the info, will chake out all mentioned.

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11-06-2013 04:54 AM  4 years agoPost 18
mcfast

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Quebec Quebec Canada

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This is how to break in a gasser motor

http://www.ultralightnews.ca/rotax/breakin.htm

Just have to adapt the right RPM and load for your motor with the right prop or on the heli

P.S. sorry for the spelling or the grammar I am dyslexic!

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12-26-2013 04:43 PM  4 years agoPost 19
mustang67ford

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Central Pennsylvania

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Will any rope work and how much do you put in?

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12-27-2013 08:11 AM  4 years agoPost 20
gyan

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Surrey, BC Canada or Blaine Wa.

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I use 1/4" cotton rope, put the piston at BDC & stuff rope in till the cylinder is full. When you crank the engine over by hand the piston will squish the rope about half way up the cylinder. To remove it just lower the piston to BDC & pull it out.

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