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Goblin Speed › Goblin 700 to Goblin speed conversion
10-31-2013 05:01 AM  4 years agoPost 1
Craigdieslemac

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Valdosta, Ga USA

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I am going to be putting the new Goblin Competition and Speed parts on to my old Goblin 700. There is nothing wrong with what I have, I just like to tinker. I will document it all here on this thread.

I finally got my hands on a new dampened tail for my G700. The install went fine until I went to connect the links from my KDE slider to the ball links on the pitch horns..

The KDE comes with a spacer that allows it to screw into the old style pitch horns and keeps the geometry correct.The new competion pitch horns are not threaded since they now have a ball end on them that is attached with an allen screw that passes through it. Well since I don't have a KDE slider for this new style I took the spacer from the old stuff and cut the small end off leaving .159", which was the distance I needed to maintain correct geometry (this is just the large end of the spacer.. see pic)

After the new spacer was made and installed on both ball links everything fit perfectly..

The supplied hardware was not long enough to attach the ball end with the new spacer. Lucky for me I have learned to hold on to hardware and found what I needed in my 130x spare parts bin.. turns out the blade bolts are exactly the right length.

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11-01-2013 04:18 AM  4 years agoPost 2
rcmarty

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Penticton , B.C. CANADA

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I was considering that also.

I ended up with one ball spacer washer under the ball end.

Even if you look at the comp tail , it shows it off center.

Technically it's not an issue due the design.

But after years of heli setup , you naturally go for square.

Nice mod , looks better all squared up

Martin

What goes up will come down.... one way or another !

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11-01-2013 09:33 AM  4 years agoPost 3
Craigdieslemac

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Valdosta, Ga USA

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I didn't realize that it was designed that way, seems like it would bind if left without a spacer. The only thing I'm concerned about with my mod is the amount of stress on that tiny bolt with the leverage the slider has on it.

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11-01-2013 03:21 PM  4 years agoPost 4
rcmarty

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Penticton , B.C. CANADA

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It's designed that way. A little less traditional than were used to seeing , but after you study the theory and mechanics it's a solid design.

I'm 100% sure on the forces applied to that longer bolt , i'd assume it's within the spec of a 2.5mm bolt.

I do see your concern also , I was going to do the same thing and thought about the side load on the longer bolt also.

I assembled it stock and thought the ball link was 'rolled over ' a bit much for my liking ( link rolled almost all the way over , just before the link hits the lower side of the ball ) So I put one of the left over spacers in there with the 8mm 2.5m bolt instead. Gave me a bit less rollover and was not to far out on the leverage of the bolt. Worth noting the cyclics are the same 2.5 with a spacer (depending on brand ) so that should do it.

Martin

What goes up will come down.... one way or another !

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11-01-2013 08:21 PM  4 years agoPost 5
Luvmyhelis

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Spokane, Washington. USA

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Nice work here guys!

Old cranky heli builder

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11-01-2013 08:45 PM  4 years agoPost 6
Craigdieslemac

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Valdosta, Ga USA

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I like them straight.. It looks a lot cleaner. I think it's like you said though, I am just used to seeing it that way. I'm going to try and fly it this weekend and see how it behaves.. I'll report back with results.. And pull the bolts to see if I notice any signs of stress.

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11-01-2013 11:35 PM  4 years agoPost 7
rcmarty

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Penticton , B.C. CANADA

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I like things square also.

I'm not sure which FBL controller your using.

The comp tail is going to add 7.8mm to the rotordisk ( bolts spaced wider ). If your FBL controller is touchy to tail gain , you might need a tweak.

I assume you trimmed up a new set of bolts ( or ordered the 18mm ones ) for the tail grips. The non comp bolts are too short and don't get into the nylon of the locknut.

If not I found a 30 mm set in my my leftover/spare parts from my 770 kit. Cut to about 20mm

I have a flight on the new system , I did notice some more authority.

Also , double check you throws on the fBL unit , I ended up increasing EPS's just a touch and turning in link 4 turns to get centered up.

Martin

What goes up will come down.... one way or another !

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11-02-2013 12:07 AM  4 years agoPost 8
Craigdieslemac

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Valdosta, Ga USA

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I'm using a v-bar with pro. I did notice the bolts, but I am pretty sure I have some longer ones with the stainless kit I bought. I have tons of hardware. I did a full mechanical setup and then went through my tail setup. It's all ironed out save the hardware. I'll get it changed out tonight after the little ones to to bed.

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11-02-2013 12:09 AM  4 years agoPost 9
rcmarty

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Penticton , B.C. CANADA

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I'm running vbar silver 5.3 pro

I didn't have any issues changing to the comp tail.

Give it a whirl

Martin

What goes up will come down.... one way or another !

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11-02-2013 12:22 AM  4 years agoPost 10
Craigdieslemac

rrKey Veteran

Valdosta, Ga USA

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Same thing I am running.. I ain't scared. I do like extra tail authority.. Even though what it had worked fine... I just can't help but have new stuff : )

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11-02-2013 03:35 AM  4 years agoPost 11
Craigdieslemac

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Valdosta, Ga USA

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Thanks LMH!

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11-02-2013 03:36 AM  4 years agoPost 12
Craigdieslemac

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Valdosta, Ga USA

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Martin.. Have you tried any of the other competition parts?

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11-02-2013 03:50 AM  4 years agoPost 13
rcmarty

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Penticton , B.C. CANADA

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I have the big belt kit fitted on the build and one of the comp tail square blocks. 770 stock with HPS

Built the 770 for 14s with scorpion 4530-450 from the start.
I read that the stock belt won't last.

Still running the stock CF plates out back on tail. Not fully seeing the benefit / requirement of the cnc tail plate. With all the cross braces and the comp style square block , I cant see an issue.

I did add an extra cross brace on the tail though. Just behind the oval slots. Keeps the plates square and actually pulls the boom to the plates now , not the other way around.
I found that the boom pulled the plates in a bit on the bottom of the plates, causing the bearings to load up.

I spent several night trying to figure out why it was so loud. Some of it was the unique goblin sound , some more from the sloppy stock tail , and main gear not broken in. All 3 togeather is loud.

With belt drives I had thoughts it would be like my old msh protos , not the case.

After tinkering for way to long , I just let into it. Main gear broken in now , and comp tail helps alot. Still noisy IMO but I can deal with it.

Martin

What goes up will come down.... one way or another !

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11-02-2013 04:08 AM  4 years agoPost 14
Craigdieslemac

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Valdosta, Ga USA

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I was going to do the big belt but I like to run 5300mah batts that are quite tall. I think the big belt would get in the way of that. I think my next trick is to run it off 6s. I have seen videos of smooth flight with it and I like what I see for lazy Sunday flying. I have the Lynx braces on my tail.. It's like one solid unit, makes dealing with he belt a lot easier. I too do not see the benefit of the metal side brace. I am also not a fan of the way they mount the ESC in the comp. I like the metal heat sync on mine. I modded my CC Edge 160 to mount to it correctly so it had metal to metal contact so it could actually be a heat sync. I do like the taller frames, but am disinterested in buying a new canopy and tail boom just to have them.

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11-03-2013 07:49 PM  4 years agoPost 15
Craigdieslemac

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Valdosta, Ga USA

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Took her out for a couple flights today.. I don't notice a difference yet. It was really windy here and the tail stayed locked in, but it did before too. I'm happy with it.

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11-04-2013 01:19 AM  4 years agoPost 16
rcmarty

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Penticton , B.C. CANADA

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I didn't notice much of a change also ( vbar silver 5.3 pro )

I could hear I had more tail to play with.

Before the upgrade the tail when loaded would make the angry bee noise. Now in the same move the constant angry bee is now a chatter.

SO I have a bit more authority until the chatter stops and the bees howl full time.

I still wonder what would happen if I fitted the logo XXtreme tail.

With my logo 700 and 800 , I can be going quite quick and throw a piro in any time I like , hardly a buzz from the tail.

Martin

What goes up will come down.... one way or another !

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11-18-2013 01:56 AM  4 years agoPost 17
Craigdieslemac

rrKey Veteran

Valdosta, Ga USA

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Put longer blades on it.. I find matching the correct size blades is just as important as mechanical setup and gyro gain. My goblin spins around fast enough for me, but if I wanted it faster.. I would put larger blades on it for a little added authority.

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03-06-2014 05:55 AM  4 years agoPost 18
Craigdieslemac

rrKey Veteran

Valdosta, Ga USA

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Since I have been building my Diabolo S, the poor Goblin has been chillen on the wall.. not doing anything.. so I got her a treat.. a new tail box and fin from the Speed machine. I'll put it on in the next couple of days..

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03-06-2014 04:29 PM  4 years agoPost 19
Craigdieslemac

rrKey Veteran

Valdosta, Ga USA

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Speed canopy on the way.. I'm thinking I can make it fit my G700 frames with some mods to the frame and the skids... More to come

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03-07-2014 09:36 PM  4 years agoPost 20
Craigdieslemac

rrKey Veteran

Valdosta, Ga USA

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So I had a spare 30 minutes to put the new tail box on the Goblin. Here is the old setup with the Lynx stiffeners.

I wanted to stay with my KDE setup but the new Speed gearbox is slotted for the SAB components..

and the KDE horn is the wrong shape..

what to do.. get out the dremel and make it work.. I shaved off the part that was in my way.. then sanded it smooth.

I had to use some washers under the head of the screws that mount the horn on, the carbon fiber was a little thicker than the aluminum that the new box is made out of and that made the screws stick out and contact one the rotating scissor link. Beyond that it was a pretty standard installation. I took this opportunity to change my tail bearings since they have a few hundred flights on them.

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