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HomeAircraftHelicopterHelicopter Main Discussion › Trex700N Grips Screws Stuck..need Help !
10-28-2013 04:43 PM  5 years agoPost 1
lajwab

rrApprentice

Chicago, ILL

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Hi,

Guys, I bought this Align Trex 700N LE Flybat version used but I just had a crash. While I was replacing the feathering shaft, I made a mistake putting the spacers washers where they suppose to be and I did used a BLUE LOCTITE to secure the main grip screws. Now when I try to unscew the grips screws, they is no way seems possible to unscrew them.
I have tried heating the hex screws and used new allen keys but no luck. Now one of the allen screws is ROUND. There is way to open it.

My question is, even I made mistake in washers placement, I can still use this head. The feathering shaft is already replaced.
The spacer washer suppose to go in between grip and head and my mistake is I didn't put any washer in this position.

I am just not so sure what to do.
Any help will highly appreciated.

Best Regards,

Arshad

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10-28-2013 04:50 PM  5 years agoPost 2
McKrackin

rrProfessor

Lucasville,Ohio

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Tough call...You probably wouldn't notice much difference other than faster wear on the dampers.

Your mistake is silly minor compared to mine two weeks ago.
I replaced the feathering shaft on my Blade 450 and after,I noticed the dampers were REALLY soft.

I could not remember if the head had that much movement before or not so I flew it and it seemed all right.
It did have a weird flutter at higher head speed and hard cyclic.
After about 20 flights,I took it apart to see what I could do to stiffen up the head dampers.

My mistake?
There was no bearing in the blade grip..lmao....

I literally never use the word literally right.

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10-28-2013 05:24 PM  5 years agoPost 3
icanfly

rrElite Veteran

ontario

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Red loctite needs a lot of heat to soften it, blue not so much though heat will make it easier to remove a bolt than without it.You might be able to reach in the grip with needle nose channel lock plyers to grasp the bolt/screw. Heat it with a high heat soldering iron, (clean the iron tip first), and undo the other end until something gives. Short of that not working you'll have to use the hole in the head where the button goes to screw a longer bolt and tighten it against the feathering shaft, do this anyway if you can't get the pliers in and tightened enough.

Personally, I might try a slim cutting disc on a dremel to put a slot in the bolt/screw head, a small disc that fits in the grip and doesn't touch the sides. A counter clockwise drill bit often heats and grabs the bolt in the rounded allen head recess to remove it.

If you get the other side off first everything is easy from there, pull the shaft through and slide the shaft out of the grip.

Whenever you use channel locks on a shaft make sure it has a some layers of tape to protect your part.

No bearing McKrackin? that's funny.

good luck

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10-28-2013 05:30 PM  5 years agoPost 4
lajwab

rrApprentice

Chicago, ILL

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Many thanks for your help.
I will try it.

Arshad

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10-28-2013 11:14 PM  5 years agoPost 5
ticedoff8

rrKey Veteran

Morgan Hill, CA. USA

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So - if I get this:
You assembled the grips to the feathering shaft (incorrectly) and now you have stripped out hole on the the allen screws? (both sides) while trying to disassemble them - yes?

If I got this right, you are screwed.

Unfortunately for you, this was typical for the Trex 700 heads. That is one reason why Lynx has the bigger, beefier replacement feathering shaft bolts.
http://www.rcheliresource.com/new-l...spindle-screws/

The best way I can think of is to pick a side, and drill out the head of the stock screw.

Use the stripped out allen hole as the pilot hole for your drill.
If you can carefully drill down into the head, then you can pull the grip off the feathering shaft over the still attached threaded portion of the remaining screw.

But, it will be a mess.

Once you get one grip off, then you can push the feathering shaft out through the head block and the remaining grip.

You should get a one of the feathering shaft tools that allow you to get a solid grip on the feathering shaft. That way you don't score the finish on the feathering shaft as you try to remove the messed up screw bodies.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...-1-Spindle-Tool

Once you get a good grip on the feathering shaft, use vice-grips to clamp down on the remaining screws and unscrew them.

The blue locktite is pretty mild - not like the red. Never use red locktite on the head.

BTW: I have a 700N LE flybared head with Edge 30g paddles sitting on the shelf. It is in good shape and - never crashed, but lots of flights. Make an offer if you are interested.

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10-28-2013 11:23 PM  5 years agoPost 6
McKrackin

rrProfessor

Lucasville,Ohio

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That way you don't score the finish on the feathering shaft
What would that hurt?

I use vise grips.
The middle of the feathering shaft touches NOTHING inside the head block...It doesn't even turn.

A good feathering shaft is damn hard to scratch anyway.lol...

I literally never use the word literally right.

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10-28-2013 11:37 PM  5 years agoPost 7
ticedoff8

rrKey Veteran

Morgan Hill, CA. USA

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Scoring the finish creates a stress riser.

The stress riser becomes a point in the feathering shaft where a stress crack could start.

Most parts are designed with a 2x load tolerance.
If the part is expected to handle 5 inch/lbs, they will design it to tolerate 10 inch/lbs with a combination of material, treatment and diameter.

Once the crack compromises about 25% of the material, you have little to no safety margin.

But also, rather than bending (as designed), the stress riser will cause a crack to form and the part just snaps under a "normal" load.

It isn't about the fit within the headblock.
The feathering shaft is supposed to float on the dampers - not touch any part of the headblock.

If you do score the feathering shaft, best practice is to dress the area with a fine file and try to minimize the scratch.

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10-28-2013 11:40 PM  5 years agoPost 8
McKrackin

rrProfessor

Lucasville,Ohio

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I see...Thanks.

Like I said though,I have never scratched one.
They're pretty tough...The good ones anyway.

I literally never use the word literally right.

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10-29-2013 12:06 AM  5 years agoPost 9
fla heli boy

rrElite Veteran

cape coral, florida

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There was no bearing in the blade grip..lmao....
All time classic....

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10-29-2013 12:30 AM  5 years agoPost 10
TMoore

rrMaster

Cookeville, TN

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Those button head screws for the 700 feathering spindle are a POS. Change them out for a SHCS and a steel washer....problem solved next time. No Loctite is necessary, just tighten the piss out of them with small L shaped allen wrenches.

Delayed Response Operator Not Engaged
AMA SECTION 336 = Good
Drones = EVIL

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10-29-2013 12:33 AM  5 years agoPost 11
dchekas

rrKey Veteran

Farmington, CT

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You're certain the hex is completely stripped out on one side?

I've seen some bolts that are supposedly "stripped", and I was able to "wiggle" the allen in and remove it, particularly the spindle bolts.

You'll definitely need to apply a healthy amount of heat to the bolts to break the loctite loose.

I'm suspecting the head in question was prior to Align switching to the deeper hex headed spindle bolts. If this is the case, you'll want to switch over to the newer style bolt.

It's available in either the Align 550-700 Hardware kit (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...0-Hardware-Pack)

Or they're in the newer stock of replacement Spindles (Newer being, newer than ~2011).

Team Align, Team Futaba, Team Byron Fuels, Team Thunder Power

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10-29-2013 02:58 AM  5 years agoPost 12
kingmeow

rrApprentice

The Garden State, US

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Borrow some MIP hex wrenches and try it with those, after applying some heat.

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10-29-2013 12:26 PM  5 years agoPost 13
unclejane

rrElite Veteran

santa fe, NM, USA

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On the spindle bolts, you must use good wrenches on these. Those crappy L-shaped things from the hardware store are too soft and will almost guarantee stripping out of the hex hole in the head of the bolt.

Beware of replacing these bolts with harder ones. Harder material gives a lot less before it breaks and the results there can be disastrous.

As for loctite, consider not using it on those bolts. That's a matter of personal comfort - I stopped using it on the spindle bolts a long time ago as soon as I discovered it made disassembly impossible in some cases, requiring a new head once or twice. I replaced that idea with simply checking the spindle bolts from time to time for tightness (never had one back out). Less expensive than a ruined head due to stripped bolts.

So in my view, in this order: good tools first, forego loctite/replace with regular inspection second, replace bolts with harder ones as last resort.

LS

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10-29-2013 08:06 PM  5 years agoPost 14
wc_wickedclown (RIP)

rrProfessor

long beach calif

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if push comes to shove drill the hex head off

Insha Allah made in america

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11-01-2013 09:15 PM  5 years agoPost 15
wc_wickedclown (RIP)

rrProfessor

long beach calif

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any luck ?

Insha Allah made in america

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