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Other › I see the Goblin price is plummeting with the Competiton's release.
10-23-2013 03:31 PM  4 years agoPost 21
McKrackin

rrProfessor

Lucasville,Ohio

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Hmmm...I have never and will never put thread lock on the servo horn screws.

That's an odd point of failure.

I literally never use the word literally right.

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10-23-2013 03:33 PM  4 years agoPost 22
unclejane

rrElite Veteran

santa fe, NM, USA

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That's probably part of what caused the failure. Threadlock can eat into plastic in some cases...

LS

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10-23-2013 03:38 PM  4 years agoPost 23
Eury

rrProfessor

Dover NH

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That would only be a concern with plastic geared servos, where thread lock wouldn't be necessary. I've always thread locked my servo arms, ever since not doing it on a Sceadu years ago and having an arm come loose. Luckily it was the pitch servo so I was able to ride it to the ground at somewhere near 0 pitch level wih very little damage. On a modern CCPM heli that would not be possible.

Nick Crego

Citizen #0168

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10-23-2013 03:39 PM  4 years agoPost 24
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Whaaaaat!?!?!? I thought most of the newer servos had metal machine screws going into metal output shafts. I have always used a tiny bit of loctite on those.

Steve

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10-23-2013 03:42 PM  4 years agoPost 25
McKrackin

rrProfessor

Lucasville,Ohio

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On some servos,the threaded hole in the pinion shaft might go all the way through...Hollow shaft.

I'm afraid to get thread locker inside the servo.

Even thread lock wicking down the side of the pinion to get in the bearings and seals.

I literally never use the word literally right.

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10-23-2013 04:32 PM  4 years agoPost 26
Funky Trex

rrElite Veteran

Westerville, OH - USA

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I had a screw back out on my rudder servo and the arm fell off during fligt. My heli started spinning but luckilly, I hit hold and got it down in one piece. Now I use a very small amount of locktite on all of my metal gear servos.

All of my servos except a few throttle servos are metal gear. I went for years without locktiting them and never had a problem before losing my rudder arm that day.

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10-23-2013 05:04 PM  4 years agoPost 27
chaos

rrApprentice

Lenexa Kansas

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If you don't want to use locktite put a small dab of clear silicone or goop on the head of the screw after tighting and it won't vibrate loose but can be removed very easely..

guaranteed not to rust,bust,collect dust,rip,slip,or tare

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10-23-2013 05:57 PM  4 years agoPost 28
Kos

rrApprentice

Athens, Greece

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rule of thumb, never buy anything mechanical made in Italy...we love Italian food, fashion and perfumes, we DO like italian cars and motorbikes, but never buy them...

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10-23-2013 07:10 PM  4 years agoPost 29
kingmeow

rrApprentice

The Garden State, US

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So I should avoid Protos then?

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10-23-2013 11:26 PM  4 years agoPost 30
Retired2011

rrElite Veteran

Lee's Summit, MO

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OH YEAH, we all know how crappy things like Protos helis, Ducati motorcycles, Ferrari cars, etc...really are.

What do the Greeks have against the Italians anyway

Chet

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10-23-2013 11:33 PM  4 years agoPost 31
McKrackin

rrProfessor

Lucasville,Ohio

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Ferrari and Ducati are both very high performance machines but they are both bad in the dependability department.

You should avoid them both if you want something that just performs day to day

I literally never use the word literally right.

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10-23-2013 11:39 PM  4 years agoPost 32
JuanRodriguez

rrProfessor

The Villages, Florida

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Loctite belongs on any metal on metal fastener application ..... No exceptions . That does not mean you have to overdo the application as many folks tend to do. A little goes a long way and is all that's needed to do the job.....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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10-24-2013 12:12 AM  4 years agoPost 33
ICUR1-2

rrElite Veteran

Ottawa, Ontario

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I was wondering when the Gobbler V2's were coming out.
The one thing in this Hobby that remains the same, the manufactures use us for the open beta testing, wait a year and then a V2 or competition series comes along.

spending time, paying attention

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10-24-2013 01:34 AM  4 years agoPost 34
Retired2011

rrElite Veteran

Lee's Summit, MO

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You should avoid them both if you want something that just performs day to day
Not the reason most people own either...It's all about the thrill, and they can provide that as well as any.
If I want a day-to-day driver I'll get a Ford or Chevy.

Chet

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10-24-2013 05:58 PM  4 years agoPost 35
blucido

rrApprentice

Plano,Texas

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Crunch has a very good point in his post. What SAB should do is offer an upgrade kit with all those upgraded items for say $100 to cover their cost to those with proof of purchase of the original heli.

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10-24-2013 09:03 PM  4 years agoPost 36
VANHELI

rrVeteran

Omaha,Nebraska

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I don't think sab owes previous customers anything. All these changes are not needed. Sure they are nice but the original version is fine without them.

Dave V.

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10-24-2013 10:40 PM  4 years agoPost 37
ICUR1-2

rrElite Veteran

Ottawa, Ontario

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but if you were buying one today would you buy the V1?
or even a choice between 2 used heli's a V1 or V2 ?

I know which I would pick

spending time, paying attention

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10-25-2013 02:31 PM  4 years agoPost 38
crunch

rrApprentice

Peterborough, England

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So if none of these upgrades were needed how come there have been some dfc failures, I know a lot of people have many flights with out failures but there are some with failures of this head. My goblin 700 has so much play on the threaded part that goes between the swash plate and the fixed part that attaches to the blade grip, I know there has to be movement there or it will break at this point. Mine has had 50 flights, I now feel I need to replace parts or upgrade to hps head before I have a failure my self. Yes I also agree sab has made a very good job of there first heli, but now at our expence, and as I said before they have just devalued all of our helis which could of been avoided with a little more testing or a discounted upgrade route, £800.00 goblin that's reduced to £560 = £350 second hand, where as the logo xxtreme is £900 new and still holding £650ish second hand. This is kit prices based on the uk prices.
Yes sab have listened to what we want, and over all make a very good product but still feel we could of all had the latest model with a bit more testing.
As some one commented earlier always wait for version 2.

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10-26-2013 02:46 AM  4 years agoPost 39
VANHELI

rrVeteran

Omaha,Nebraska

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The boom strikes were caused by not having the proper clearance from tip of blades to boom. This was figured out early on and was a simple fix. Mine did not need it. There is supposed to be play on the dfc links like you stated. You feel it needs replaced but does it really need to be? Many with hundreds of flights on the dfc head without failure. Improper preloading of the dampers on the dfc head is another cause of failure. Main blades not tightened enough and motor bogging causing a boom strike is another potential failure. All of these are controlled by the builder. Build it right, maintain it right and it will fly right. This was too much stuff for me to worry about maintaining so I switched to an HPS head. My choice. Many like the dfc many don't. I think it would be nice if they sold the kit with either head you choose like the mostro(if it is real) is doing. I am not saying the v1 was perfect but it is one of the best first release Helis I have owned. I would still buy the v1 over the v2 and put a HPS head on it as long as the price is reasonable.

Dave V.

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10-26-2013 02:49 AM  4 years agoPost 40
VANHELI

rrVeteran

Omaha,Nebraska

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As far as holding value, that concerns me none. I buy a heli to fly not to sell. Some do, I don't. It is like buying a car. Terrible investment!

Dave V.

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