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HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › Which battery pack to buy for my servos?
10-10-2013 10:12 PM  4 years agoPost 1
rcheliguymtl

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Montreal, Quebec - Canada

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I'm using 4 x Futaba S9452's and 1 JR MP80G servo on my heli. The specs for the Futaba S9452's are 4.8v and 6.0v and the specs on the JR tail servo is only 4.8v.

My question is, which battery pack would work for all 5 servos? (what voltage)

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10-10-2013 10:16 PM  4 years agoPost 2
bkervaski

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Birmingham, AL, USA

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A 2S2P Lipo (size would depend on placement and CG) and a regulator such as the Gryphon, ReactorX, or Duralite set to somewhere between 4.8 and 6.0 volts.

If you're worried about the tail servo at 6.0v you can set your regulators to 5.0v or get a 1.0v step down but it should be fine, you'll want to run those cyclic servos at 6.0v if you can.

Edit: 2S2P is a redundant pack, two cells in series, two series in parallel. If you loose a cell (for whatever reason) you won't loose the heli. That being said, most just run a regular 2S pack but the 2S2P packs aren't that much more expensive and provide an extra layer of redundancy.

Team Synergy Factory Specialist / Scorpion / Thunder Power / Byron's Fuels

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10-10-2013 10:22 PM  4 years agoPost 3
rcheliguymtl

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Montreal, Quebec - Canada

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I wanted to stay away from LIPO and use NIMH batteries.. From what I read everything would work on a 4.8v 4500 NIMH battery.

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10-11-2013 02:21 PM  4 years agoPost 4
bkervaski

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Birmingham, AL, USA

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Consider a LiFE pack (6.0v) instead of a NIMH.

NIMH are heavy, slow to charge, and don't produce the amps you need for today's flybarless helis.

NIMH fully charged are close to 6.0v.

Team Synergy Factory Specialist / Scorpion / Thunder Power / Byron's Fuels

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10-11-2013 03:00 PM  4 years agoPost 5
cudaboy_71

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sacramento, ca, u.s.

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everything will work with 4.8. But, just slower and less powerful.

The real nuisance about nimh is the maintenance and voltage dropoff. you MUST charge your nimh packs right before you fly. either the night before or day of flying. the cells don't hold their charge longer than that.

also, when a nimh cell goes flat it's like falling off of a cliff. you'll go from nominal voltage to electronics brownout in a matter of seconds. so, you really need to have some way to monitor your cells at the field, or just know you only get 2-3 flights (or whatever) per charge. push it, and you'll be picking up pieces.

Life/Lipo can hold charge for days, so you can be ready to fly at a moment's notice. And, you can use a lipo monitor to see the state of the pack. Just like with a flight pack, you can take the under load voltage right down to 3.7 volts and not worry about it failing in flight.

down side is of course, you'll need a regulator. there are several out there that provide one leg adjustable 5-8v and another leg at 4.8v for the tail servo.

but, as you can see there's a reason most of us have graduated from nimh.

if it ain't broke, break it.

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10-11-2013 03:17 PM  4 years agoPost 6
bikersurgeon

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Monett, MO-USA

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Dumb question here, but I got this: http://www.perfectregulators.com/in...7&product_id=77

to plug a tail servo/gyro into on a nitro heli with a 2s lipo. Now wondering if instead, Can you plug the lipo into this then power the receiver from it then have everything running at 5.3v? Regulators I have seen in the past are significantly larger...dunno if this little thing would handle running everything....thanks.

TT .90 TOW, TT x50, TT 50se, Ergo 60, TT .50 apache, MT cobra, MT, Trex450, 450 airwolf, TT .30,

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10-11-2013 03:28 PM  4 years agoPost 7
bkervaski

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Birmingham, AL, USA

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@bikersurgeon

It would probably be fine on the bench and even for some light flying but a device that small can't dissipate the heat that's going to be generated on hard amp pulls and will likely just burn out and you will crash.

Hard amp pulls does not mean hard 3D flying, just a fast collective punch out will do it.

The benefit of the $50-$150 regulators is they can deal with the heat.

Edit: Everybody is quick to say "you don't need this or that unless you're flying hard 3d" when the reality is poor collective management (or hard collective pulls) is harder on helis than anything regardless of 3D or sport flying. Most decent 3D pilots really don't stress their electronics that much as they generally have good collective management.

Team Synergy Factory Specialist / Scorpion / Thunder Power / Byron's Fuels

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10-11-2013 03:30 PM  4 years agoPost 8
Pistol Pete

rrProfessor

Seffner, FL

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+1 LiFe
http://hangtimes.com/a123_batteries_for_giants_faq.html

Consider, especially if you already have a charger that can handle LiFe.

These are not soft cells that you have to babysit "just in case". They are safer, hard cylinder type the lenght of a D cell with the girth of a C cell. My two cells 2S 2300mA with deans and two inch leads weighs in at 165g. They can be charged at 10A (15 min) but I go for 5A or 30min and deliver up to 60C.

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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10-11-2013 03:37 PM  4 years agoPost 9
bikersurgeon

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Monett, MO-USA

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Thanks, bkervaski, I kinda figured that...so I'll stick to the original plan and just use it on the heli that only needs voltage drop at the tail. Thanks again.

TT .90 TOW, TT x50, TT 50se, Ergo 60, TT .50 apache, MT cobra, MT, Trex450, 450 airwolf, TT .30,

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