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HomeAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › HELP!!! YS 56 Start up Carb settings...
09-07-2013 05:12 PM  4 years agoPost 1
Machinehead01

rrVeteran

Lower Michigan

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Recently I blew the piston and sleeve out of my 56 so I am starting from scratch. Like a dummy I messed with the initial high needle setting and think that maybe the engine issue was probably my fault. Anyways I would like to put it back to the factory sets but can't make heads or tails of what the manual says that they are.

œ Hover Needle 2 times open / 1.0~2.0
œ Idling Needle Factory Set ( 0.5 ) / 0.2~1.0
œ High Needle Factory Set (1.0 ) / 0.5~1.5

Exactly what is stated in the manual, but can't figue out if the numbers represent turns of the screws or if they mean milimeters. I am thinking turns, but need to be sure as I don't really want to smoke another piston and sleeve.

Tom

"You judge according to the flesh; I am not judging anyone."

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09-07-2013 08:02 PM  4 years agoPost 2
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Number of turns out from fully closed. The first number is the starting value. The numbers in parentheses represent the range in which the final adjustment should fall.

Be somewhat careful when closing the needles, so you don't overdo it and end up with a damaged needle or seat.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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09-07-2013 11:31 PM  4 years agoPost 3
Machinehead01

rrVeteran

Lower Michigan

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Thanks dkshema,
Was drawing a blank on what was what. So do you have any suggestions as to where I should start?

Tom

"You judge according to the flesh; I am not judging anyone."

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09-14-2013 04:05 PM  4 years agoPost 4
DavidLD

rrVeteran

Radcliff, KY

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I just picked up a pre-owned heli with a YS-56 and had exactly the same question. Thanks for clarifying that!

Will be nice to give YS a try since I've only ever owned OS's.


Dave
Synergy and Logos

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09-14-2013 06:29 PM  4 years agoPost 5
ExFokkerFlyer

rrApprentice

Coarsegold, CA

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Leave the idle needle set at the factory setting. Adjust this only after you get it running and decide you need to change it. I would start at 2 turns open on the hover needle, and 1.5 turns on the high. This will be a rich setting, but it's better to start blubbering rich and have to lean it than go the other way.

YS intial settings typically are very rich, even so rich that the engine has a tough time to get up to speed, but I prefer to start this way KNOWING I will have to lean it to get it to run reliably. The settings for the 56 aren't as off as the 60 or 120 (those can just plain quit at factory settings) but it will likely be pretty rich.

Take your time and you'll be rewarded with a nice running engine!

Tom M

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09-17-2013 03:41 PM  4 years agoPost 6
Machinehead01

rrVeteran

Lower Michigan

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Thanks for the replies
Tom, you must have been reading my mind as thats exactly where I started out at. The 56 seems to have quite a bit more punch then any of the OS's I have flown, and i also feel that they tend to run more consistent.

My 2 cents.

Tom

"You judge according to the flesh; I am not judging anyone."

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09-17-2013 06:02 PM  4 years agoPost 7
ticedoff8

rrKey Veteran

Morgan Hill, CA. USA

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Check the backplate after your flights.
It should be cool / mildly warm to the touch.

If it is hot to the touch, you are too lean.

Also, make sure you are using a good 1-way check valve. I use YS, OS or Perry Aeromotive with good results (BTW: The same 1-way check valve is used on all sizes of YS engines). If you use a 1-way that came from the LHS, it may be designed for the smoke systems on stunt planes. It would be a problem on your engine.

I use the YS 56 on my Trex 600N 3G and the YS 91SR-3DS on my Raptor 90 SE (converted to FBL).
I stopped using anything OS when the OS 91HZ-PS came out. The built in pump failed and caused the piston to actually burn a hole in it - it happened 3 times before I decided it was time for a change.

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09-18-2013 04:20 AM  4 years agoPost 8
Machinehead01

rrVeteran

Lower Michigan

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Never had the luck with OS...
That some others have. That and having to almost schedule a rear bearing change after some many gallons/flights, seems kinda stupid to me. I feel that if you know there is a consistent problem that can only be fixed by a bearing replacement then you need to fix the problem, not just say "well hey, this is it, take it or leave it."

Again My 2 cents.

Tom

"You judge according to the flesh; I am not judging anyone."

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