RunRyder RC
WATCH
 3 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2      3     NEXT    >> ] 2991 views POST REPLY
HomeScaleAircraftScale HeliScale Helicopter Main Discussion › Painting scale blades??
09-04-2013 01:41 AM  5 years agoPost 1
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Hey guys, I need some tips for painting my scale blades on the AS350 project. I need to paint them flat gray with 3 yellow bands. I don't want to throw them out of balance in the process, so some solid advice from those who have done this successfully would help. The 700mm spin blades weigh 118 grams stock, so I don't want to go crazy with extra weight. I was thinking gray primer with gloss yellow stripes...
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-04-2013 02:50 AM  5 years agoPost 2
Star1

rrApprentice

San Jose CA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

When I painted my blades on my vario huey I used the tamiya paints. I painted them, waited for them to dry, and then weighed them. I used gray tape in the leading edge to simulate the aluminum protector they have in the real blades. After I added the tape to both of them I went back and added more tape on the leading edge of the lighter one to make them balance.

I have also done it where I just keep adding more paint to the lighter blade. I just make sure to add the paint on the outer edge (tip) of the blade.

I have tried both methods and have never had a problem with them being out of balance.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-04-2013 02:52 AM  5 years agoPost 3
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

painting blades with the hopes of keeping them in balance is almost impossible. since you will have to check and see if you threw them out of balance after you painted them by mounting them on the balancer anyway, you might as well be prepared to do the balancing after you paint them. now what you can do to minimize how much you throw off the balance is lay them all next to each other (close) and spray in even strokes. after it all dry, mount to the balancer and if one is slightly out, use the color or maybe some clearcoat to add weight to the light blades til they all match. the overall added weight to each blade shouldn't be an issue for todays machines and thrust brngs.

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-04-2013 02:53 AM  5 years agoPost 4
eyefly3d

rrApprentice

magnolia tx

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I painted mine by setting them flat on the bench end to end and sprayed starting at one end in a continuous stroke, being careful to keep the can level. I then repeated the process starting at the opposite end until one side was done. After letting that side dry for a couple days I sprayed the other side the same way. I would suggest painting the Grey then masking for the yellow stripes, setting the blades side by side as you spray the yellow. I masked off the red areas of my blades then sprayed the white, instead of spraying the whole blade white then painting the red. This method worked for me in keeping the extra weight down.

Hope that helps, Chris

I don't always fly helis, but when I do I prefer to fly scale.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-04-2013 02:57 AM  5 years agoPost 5
coptercptn

rrElite Veteran

Mesa AZ. USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I usually balance mine with clear anyway.. so get the color on and set them up in the balancer, then dust on clear (Gloss, satin or flat depending on the finish you want...)
it's amazing how little you need.

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-04-2013 04:12 AM  5 years agoPost 6
Star1

rrApprentice

San Jose CA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Now if your really up for the challenge paint the two blades different colors. I painted one white and the other black on my huey. I don't remember which color was it but one weighed more than the other. They look great in flight and they make the head speed look lower than it is. The white blade really stands out.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-04-2013 05:08 AM  5 years agoPost 7
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Thanks for all of the tips guys! I'll have a go at it...
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-04-2013 02:36 PM  5 years agoPost 8
coptercptn

rrElite Veteran

Mesa AZ. USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Yeah there was a group of huey guys (Army I think) in Nam that did that, and when we flew above them it was really weird.... Looked like they were missing a blade!

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-04-2013 04:14 PM  5 years agoPost 9
co_rotorhead

rrVeteran

Centennial, CO, USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Quick question -- do you prep the blades (i.e. sand them just a little bit with fine grit) before you spray them? I would assume this would be necessary or at least help with adhesion?

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-04-2013 04:48 PM  5 years agoPost 10
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

i wet sand mine with fine grit paper when i paint them.
in the past ive been doing the spiraling effect which is super cool looking. saw it on a fulsize MD500 when i worked at the fbo and now i have it on 3 of my ships. works best with 3 or more and the more blades the better the effect. just dont stare at it while in flight as it will hypnotize you
i 1st saw the one blade effect when Peter Wales had his big R22 some years ago in Mullberry fl. as i got closer to the field on the highway, i tho7ught it was a fullsize machine in the air. very effective.

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-04-2013 06:12 PM  5 years agoPost 11
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Scuff Blades?
Yes you should scuff them lightly prior to paint
I like to use the green scotchbrite pads or 600 wet and dry sand paper.

I am actually starting to paint a set today and will take pics as I go and post info on what I use and how..
I will post lster today

Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-04-2013 10:52 PM  5 years agoPost 12
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Painting 101!!!!
As "promised".... here is how I paint blades, and the materials that I use..


The above pic's show the materials that I use to paint blades.. the windex is used to clean the blades, and later after scuffing has been done the alcohol is used to clean the blades one more time prior to starting paint.

The above show how the blades are prepared.. notice that the blades have been marked so that they go on the head the same way each time. I then cut a piece of masking tape and put the same number on it, and that is what I use to keep track of what is going on during the paint process.

Now you see the blades with prime on them. I like to coat the bottom first, and will apply 2 coats, and let them dry.. then I turn the blades over and spray 2 coats on the top surface. Again, let the paint dry.. on a nice warm day, you can shoot this paint about every 15 minutes or so, but do not rush it.. let the prime dry for at least one hour prior to moving to the next steps.

Now the blades are weighed, and you can see the sticky note that has the first weight of each blade, and any diference in weight is noted..I add weight to the blades that need it to match the heaviest one.. take your time here, and a little practice and you can get them mighty close...when you are within a couple of 10th's you can scuff the heavier blades a bit to bring them into a 10th or 2.. with practice you can get pretty accurate too!! (OR LUCKY!!)

Once they are close to matched, it is time for the first top coats. Here I like to shoot around the edges of each blade.. then I will add the first coat to the bottom of each blade.. let them set for about 15 to 30 minutes and then add the second coat to make certain that you have good coverage.. once that is complete, let them dry about 60 minutes.. then flip them over, and use a little 800 wet paper to just lightly scuff the top of each blade to remove any overspray or dust that might be stuck to each blade.. then use a clean papertowel to dry each blade.. let them sit and make sure that there is no water left on the blade "anywhere".. with that, go around the edges of each blade first, and then shoot the first cover coat... wait about 30 minutes and shoot the top coat... that finishes the color application. These blades will sit in my shop for the next day or so, and then I will tape off for the stripes.. I will shoot more pic's of that process and post it also...but tomorrow, I will weigh the blades again, and if I have to add paint, I will again bring them to very close so that after the stripping is on, it will just take a bit of clear on the bottoms to bring them into balance again.. I do attempt to keep them close by paying attention to how many stokes it takes to cover each blade and try to do the same on each... so, till Friday... PREP THOSE BLADES FOR PAINT!!!!

Good Luck, Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-04-2013 11:51 PM  5 years agoPost 13
co_rotorhead

rrVeteran

Centennial, CO, USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Great stuff, Stan. Thank you for taking the time to do this.

-Patrick

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-05-2013 03:13 AM  5 years agoPost 14
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Stan the man and everyone else... Thanks for the great info! I'll be starting my blade paint job tomorrow. I bought the paint today...
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-05-2013 02:15 PM  5 years agoPost 15
reddragon

rrElite Veteran

Brooklyn, N.Y.

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

This is Great. Thanks very much Stan.

Wayne - Fly it like you stole it! You're in good hands with Runryder!

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-06-2013 02:15 AM  5 years agoPost 16
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Glad It Is A Help....
I did get to putting the yellow tips on today, but had a couple of doc appointments come up, and that took me away for most of the day... but I did shoot pic's and will post them along with the final steps on Friday morning....

Thanks, Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-06-2013 05:50 AM  5 years agoPost 17
PETER ROB

rrElite Veteran

Devon UK

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Stan, I used to go through a similar process to yours, but found with normal wear and tear the blades got scratched and chipped, then the process for repainting, became tedious
now I do not wet and dry the blades to start, just wash with cellulous thinners, then spray with finish colour, if I need stripped on blades I cut correct colour vinyl
If i need to repaint at any time I remove the vinyl stripes and wash the blades with thinners
If I only need a different colour tip, you can mask and spray, but if you have enough paint, dip both blades into the pot at the same time, until they touch bottom, lift out and hang until excess paint has run of, this will ensure both blades have the same amount of paint on them, watch the timing and you can flick the last drop of paint off with a paint brush or even a piece of cloth over the end of a finger
Just another way of doing the same job
Peter R

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-06-2013 06:51 PM  5 years agoPost 18
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

The Final Steps..
Peter thank you for your input, and as you said another way to the same end..
I have tried the tape for the stipes and found that it will fade after a couple of seasons in the sun, and it cannot just be removed and replaced, that is why I have gone back to this process...
I have blades that have now been flown 3 seasons and they look like the day that they were painted..so I am sticking with what works for me..and hopefully our info will help those that are worried about how and what to use..good buddy Rkfish turned me onto this paint, and I have not used anything since..(OH and these blades belong to his 1/3rd scale 300..hope he likes them!!!)

So, with that said, let me load the pic's and get the final info to all those sitting on the edge of their seats waiting to see how these came out!!!!


The above pitures are showing how the blades are masked for the markings wanted, in this case 100mm yellow, 48mm white and another 100mm of yellow, on the top only with about 5mm wrap around the leading edge of the blade, "ONLY USE PENCIL" to make very fine marks for your tape. At this point make certain the tape is pressed down and tight.. then, and no you are not seeing things.. my next step is to shoot a coat of the color that I masked over (white)..this will make sure that you do not get any of the new color running under your tape, and give you a nice sharp paint edge.


The Yellow paint being applied..shoot a light "dust" coat along all the tape edges... wait abou 5 minutes and then you can apply the wet coat of the yellow..then let the blades set about 1-2 hours and begin removing the tape.. always pull the tape back over itself with about a 45 degree angle to the paint.. this will help to keep the paint from pulling up as you remove the tape.


The blades should look like this once the tape is off...note the clean lines... Now they are ready to be weighed again to see how far out of balance they are...


As you can see, the heavy blade, number 3 is 428.2 and blade number 1 is light by .3 of a gram, and number 2 is light by .4 of a gram.. not too bad
So, now it is onto the clear coat.. I shoot a light coat on the bottoms of blade numbers 1 and 2... let it dry for 30 minutes and weigh them to see how they match up to number 3...After applying the clear, I had to add a bit more to 1 and 2 and the final weight came in at 429.4 after adjusting each blade... the origianl starting weight was 417.5 so the total weight added to each blade was 11.7 grams.. so you can see that the weight of the paint is really not that much once it is all cured...ALSO just one more check..After 48hrs, check the weight of all the blades one more time just to know that they are fully cured and there will be no change after that except for the bugs you will be killing!!!
I hope this will help you guys out next time you want to paint a set of blades... as Peter mentioned, there are other ways, but this is the one that works for me.. and hope it will for you too.. Taking your time and being patient is key to your success.. if you are not sure you waited long enough, wait another 30 minutes or so, then move on.. better too long then not long enough..
Best of luck to all... Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-06-2013 07:32 PM  5 years agoPost 19
PETER ROB

rrElite Veteran

Devon UK

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

A good lesson
Stan, a good lesson for any one wishing to paint their blades
Can not fault what you say because it is a method I often use

I do have some questions, what tape do you use for edge taping
How long do you leave one coat before masking for the next cover
Do you remove the tape when the paint is still wet, or do you allow it to dry

None of these are trick questions, it is just that I have found over the years that tape and it's adhesives have changed, also thickness
I notice you use acrylic, is this something you have always used, I am very old school and still use cullulose, ( still available if you know where to shop) and find acrylic difficult, or less forgiving
Peter R

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
09-06-2013 09:12 PM  5 years agoPost 20
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Questions..
Did not think they were trick questions...not a problem at all.
I am copying your post on here and will anwser each in yours so that I don't miss one...:coolus old timers!!!)

do have some questions, what tape do you use for edge taping

Usually I will use a blue vinyl type called fine line.. BUT, I have found that I can use regular masking tape, and the one used in these photos is called DUCK. The purple that I used is good for 30 days and is a medium tack..that is why I mentioned making sure it is stuck down and then shoot the same base color and let that dry about 1 hour before shooting the new color..

How long do you leave one coat before masking for the next cover
Here I like to leave the paint cure overnight prior to masking for a new color... but I have done it after 3 hours with good results with THIS paint..

Do you remove the tape when the paint is still wet, or do you allow it to dry
I do allow the paint to dry prior to taking up the tape..it is usually good to go after about 2 hours, but then you need to handle carefully and let everything set overnight.. (that no rush part I noted!!!)

None of these are trick questions, it is just that I have found over the years that tape and it's adhesives have changed, also thickness

Certainly no doubt about the differences in tapes.. I have the vinyl fine line..Scotch 3M #2080EL Edge Block (this works very well also.. once the paint comes in contact with the tape it creates a seal so there is not bleed.. I still shoot the same color though, just in case!!! This one is rated for 14 days...

I notice you use acrylic, is this something you have always used, I am very old school and still use cullulose, ( still available if you know where to shop) and find acrylic difficult, or less forgiving
I never used/liked the acrylics either.. they always seemed to lay down like an orange peel...hated that.. this particular brand works more like a lacquer based paint.. the tip design gives and excellent spray patern and it really is the easiest paint that I have ever used in spray bomb form..
Guess I now fall into the "Aerosol Artist" catagory!!

Hope this answers your questions.. if not hit me again..
Thanks, Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
WATCH
 3 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2      3     NEXT    >> ] 2991 views POST REPLY
HomeScaleAircraftScale HeliScale Helicopter Main Discussion › Painting scale blades??
 Print TOPIC  Make Suggestion 

 11  Topic Subscribe

Tuesday, December 18 - 7:36 pm - Copyright © 2000-2018 RunRyder   EMAILEnable Cookies

The RC discussion world needs to consolidate. RR is now one choice for that. Its software is cutting edge. It hosts on-topic advertising. Help RR increase traffic buy making suggestions, posting in RR's new areas (sites) and by spreading the word.

The RunRyder Difference

• Category system to allow Rep/Vendor postings.
• Classifieds with sold (hidden) category.
• Classifieds with separate view new.
• Answer PMs offsite via email reply.
• Member gallery photos with advanced scripting.
• Gallery photo viewer integrated into postings.
• Highly refined search with advanced back end.
• Hosts its own high end fast response servers.
• Hosts thousands of HD event coverage videos.
• Rewrote entire code base with latest technology.
• No off-topic (annoying) click bait advertising.
Login Here
 New Subscriptions 
 Buddies Online