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DJI › Upgrade to 3.16 or stay on 3.14
09-02-2013 06:10 PM  4 years agoPost 1
rocket_33

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Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

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Reading on the forums, I see some people having issues with 3.16. I am not sure if this is more or less the type of issues in general but I thought I would ask if I should go ahead and go to 3.16 or stay on 14.

Ok so here is the quandary. It seems to be flying well on 14 with only one flyoff but that was due to gopro hero 3 black which has its own issues (wireless randomly turns on and when it does it interferes with the NAZA unit). To confirm when I got it back the blue light was flashing on the GPHero3 which it was NOT when I took it off. GoPro had a firmware update which I hopes fixes that problem.

Anyway I digress. So 14 has gone well for me.

The advantage to 16 is faster GPS acquisition. I have to admit I can go get a cup of coffee and doughnut before it locks onto the sats.

I have heard that with 16 though when lifting off in GPS mode, it has a tendency to want to flip. That is not an issue with 14.

So I would like to hear thoughts from people using 16

BTW airframe is a DJI 550 all stock

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09-02-2013 09:18 PM  4 years agoPost 2
max232

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Pensacola

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I have a phantom on the way, what do you think it will ship with? 3.14 or 3.16

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09-03-2013 02:23 AM  4 years agoPost 3
rocket_33

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Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

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It could have anything on it.....all depends how long it was sitting on the dealer's shelf.

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09-03-2013 03:48 AM  4 years agoPost 4
ErichFrrElite Veteran - Sutton, NH - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

My 550 has been flying awesome and very locked in with Ver 3.16. It's got about 2.5 hours flight time logged since I finished building it a few weeks ago.

Check out the videos shot from this bird HERE

I have flown in some pretty gusty conditions in one or two of those videos (look for the flags in the video).

I too have read some of the reports in the forums about 3.16 but I really think they have to be isolated incidents involving a rather complex little piece of hardware. Who knows what every failure mode of these things really can be? And I've been operating about a dozen different forms of small aircraft autopilots for the past decade. As soon as I think I've seen it all, I get surprised yet again.

Taking off in GPS mode just requires a committed decision to actually take off. You can't "sneak" it off the ground like an FAI machine or anything. For a GPS "Auto Takeoff", I get the motors running, then set the throttle right up to 75% and stay hands off the cyclic until it's well clear of the ground. The only reason it could flip is if you use skid landing gear and one gets stuck in the grass or something.

I generally take off and land in Attitude mode, anyways.

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09-03-2013 02:08 PM  4 years agoPost 5
Nashville

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Formerly Music City now back home in Sunny Florida

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I updated to 16 as soon as I got my Phantom a couple of months ago. No problems at all. Only issues have been problems I created. GPS locks in nice and fast.

I was Spektrum when Spektrum wasn't cool

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09-04-2013 11:17 PM  4 years agoPost 6
rocket_33

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Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

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Doooh
Well I did the upgrade and now have an oops. I flew the 550 prior to upgrading to make sure all was good. I then had read that the upgrade wipes out all of the settings so I went into the software and wrote down all of my settings so I could put them all back in.

So far so good. I downloaded the firmware, installed the new software version and proceeded to perform the upgrade. All still good.

After the upgrade was complete I power cycled the system, and then proceed to enter the parameters I had prior (gain settings, re-cal the sticks, enter GPS position, etc). So all is still working smoothly. I verified all of the inputs (Modes and IOC), and all working as expected.

I then performed compass calibration, no problems there, so now I am ready.

I go outside, power everything up, it acquires the satellites much faster and am ready to go. Perform a CSC and.......NOTHING. The motors don't start. No errors, LED shows all is good to go, (shows I am in ATTI mode, and has obtained at least 6 sats). I then recalled I did not hear the tones.

Unplug the battery, restart my TX to make sure, plug in the battery and AHA!!! No tones.

I go through the manual, even perform an IMU Basic calibration as suggested...nothing. I even try increase the bottom throttle endpoint....nothing.

So what could be the issue? I went from a flying model to now one that it won't arm the motors. Any thoughts, could I have missed something? Did it potentially change the programing of the ESC? Thoughts?

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09-04-2013 11:23 PM  4 years agoPost 7
ErichF

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Sutton, NH

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First of all, you don't have to write anything down. Go to the tools Tab, click Export Settings, and save the file. After any firmware updates, click the Import Settings and load the file. You will still have to recalibrate your TX and Compass.

It doesn't sound like you recalibrated your TX after the update. Did you?

Also, reset all your trims, making sure throttle trim is all the way down before you calibrate your TX in the system.

Lastly, make sure you are still configured to D-Bus if you are using the S-Bus RX, or that you have the system set to Traditional if using any other RX setup.

Erich

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09-04-2013 11:56 PM  4 years agoPost 8
rocket_33

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Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

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I wrote them down so all was good there.

Yes I did re-calibrate the transmitter (I did list that above with the procedure I followed)

Trims were set, and I am set for Receiver type Tradition (as it was before).

Looking under the RC tab all the sticks, switches, and knobs move as they are suppose to. The modes activate as expected.

As I said, no tones are present from the ESC's on power up (ok actually made by the motor but you know what I mean).

Before the upgrade all was good, after, not so much. I purposely flew it before the upgrade so I could compare and contrast.

Strange thing is according to monitor, everything is working. Maybe I will try downgrading to see if it goes back to working.

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09-05-2013 12:29 AM  4 years agoPost 9
rocket_33

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Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

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Here is another update.

When plugged in the LED displays the follow

First plugged in Cycles Red Green Yellow a couple of times quickly - indicating start up and self check

Then flashes green 4 times slowly (only does this once) - no idea

Then cycles 4 quick yellows - indicating warmup

And then once it gets the sats it indicates how many sats and control mode. So the only "unknown" is the 4 slow green flash

Update....downgraded the firmware and exactly the same results. Went back to 3.16. Almost seems as if I need to recal the ESC's but don't recall seeing anything on this

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09-05-2013 01:19 AM  4 years agoPost 10
ErichF

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Sutton, NH

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What ESCs?

Also, when you connect power, do the ESCs give off their first set of chirps, indicating that they have power going to them prior to arming?
If they are not getting power, you must have disconnected something to do with your power distribution setup.

Otherwise,have you read the following in the manual:

Motors Start failure caused by TX stick(s) mid point error too big If the TX stick(s) mid point error is too big, Motors Start will fail when you execute the Combination Stick
Commands (CSC) and lead to the aircraft will not takeoff.. And the LED will blink Red four times per second
continually to warn you.
TX stick(s) mid point error too big can be caused by the following reasons:
(1) There is TX stick (except the throttle stick) not at center when power on the autopilot system.
(2) The TX sticks has been trimmed, which leads to the large deviation of mid point. For example, the
SUB-TRIM has been adjusted for Futaba transmitter.
(3) The TX stick(s) travel has larger asymmetry.
For the reason (1), please put all TX sticks at the mid point, and then power cycle the autopilot system to
re-record the mid point. If the problem continues, that can be caused by the reason (2) or reason (3), yo
u need to adjust the output range of your TX, and then use the Assistant Software to redo the TX cali
bration. Please carry out the following procedures.
(1) Connect to the Assistant software, click Basic-> R/C-> Command Sticks Calibration, and push all TX
sticks throughout their complete travel range to see if any stick cannot reach its largest position.
(2) Adjust the largest travel of TX stick until the cursor on the Assistant software can reach both end
positions, according to your TX manual.
(3) Power cycle the autopilot system, note that power cycle is required.
(4) Redo the TX calibration according to the Assistant software.

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09-05-2013 02:00 AM  4 years agoPost 11
rocket_33

rrElite Veteran

Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

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What ESCs? Stock
Also, when you connect power, do the ESCs give off their first set of chirps, indicating that they have power going to them prior to arming? No chirps...no sound...nothing
If they are not getting power, you must have disconnected something to do with your power distribution setup. Did not disconnect anything....Flew before Upgrade literally five minutes before, since original upgrade nothing
Otherwise,have you read the following in the manual: Yes read and went through it prior to posting
Motors Start failure caused by TX stick(s) mid point error too big If the TX stick(s) mid point error is too big, Motors Start will fail when you execute the Combination Stick
Commands (CSC) and lead to the aircraft will not takeoff.. And the LED will blink Red four times per second Not blinking the 4 times per second so not this error
continually to warn you.
TX stick(s) mid point error too big can be caused by the following reasons:
(1) There is TX stick (except the throttle stick) not at center when power on the autopilot system.
(2) The TX sticks has been trimmed, which leads to the large deviation of mid point. For example, the
SUB-TRIM has been adjusted for Futaba transmitter.
(3) The TX stick(s) travel has larger asymmetry.
For the reason (1), please put all TX sticks at the mid point, and then power cycle the autopilot system to
re-record the mid point. If the problem continues, that can be caused by the reason (2) or reason (3), yo
u need to adjust the output range of your TX, and then use the Assistant Software to redo the TX cali
bration. Please carry out the following procedures.
(1) Connect to the Assistant software, click Basic-> R/C-> Command Sticks Calibration, and push all TX
sticks throughout their complete travel range to see if any stick cannot reach its largest position.
(2) Adjust the largest travel of TX stick until the cursor on the Assistant software can reach both end
positions, according to your TX manual.
(3) Power cycle the autopilot system, note that power cycle is required.
(4) Redo the TX calibration according to the Assistant software.

Have done all calibrations multiple times, stick, switches, and compass.

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09-05-2013 02:26 AM  4 years agoPost 12
ErichF

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Sutton, NH

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Do you have RX Advanced Protection on or off?

Have you tried the Restore Defaults option yet? (Nuclear Option)

This sure is weird, sorry for your frustration, just trying to get you going again. I've used five or six of these things, and they have all been flawless.

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09-05-2013 02:43 AM  4 years agoPost 13
rocket_33

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Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

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Opened up the assistant, because I could not remember. Receiver Advanced Protection is in the OFF position

Yes this is very odd, I have not had a problem before.

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09-05-2013 04:52 AM  4 years agoPost 14
rocket_33

rrElite Veteran

Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

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To add more...I checked and I am getting voltage to the ESC, and there are no errors on the NAZA. The heart of the issue starts with no tones at the original plug in of the battery. Before upgrade (and as I am sure you get), I would get the musical tones. Now nothing.

And to confirm, using the DJI 30A opto ESCs. Any thoughts what else I can test for?

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09-05-2013 10:04 PM  4 years agoPost 15
max232

rrVeteran

Pensacola

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I am not an expert on this, but is there any way the throttle channel is reversed or throttle trim is not set at the lowest setting?

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09-05-2013 11:28 PM  4 years agoPost 16
rocket_33

rrElite Veteran

Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Good thought but unfortunately no. And also remember it flew immediately before the firmware update and nothing after.

I am going to tear it down tonight and trace all of the circuits. I should at least be getting tones when I plug the battery in. Guess will just have to start at one end and trace everything.

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09-06-2013 12:58 AM  4 years agoPost 17
max232

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Pensacola

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Please post the results of your investigation.

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09-07-2013 05:04 AM  4 years agoPost 18
Joel Rosenzweig

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Marlborough, MA - USA

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If you have not already, plug an ESC directly into your RX, and see if you can operate it directly. The idea would be to make sure that you have not managed to destroy all of your ESCs. If they were damaged for some reason, they wouldn't ARM.

If they DO arm when directly plugged into your RX, then at least you know that your NAZA is not driving them correctly. At which point, you can look for either a radio setup issue, or continued NAZA troubleshooting. But at least you'll know it is not the ESCs.

Joel

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09-07-2013 09:03 PM  4 years agoPost 19
max232

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Pensacola

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Any updates?

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09-09-2013 04:49 AM  4 years agoPost 20
rocket_33

rrElite Veteran

Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

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Sorry all it took me a bit to update on the progress. I started off by re-doing the firmware upgrade and making sure all was correct here whcih it was.

The thing that got to me was making no tones at all. So I decided to go back to basics, break out the multimeter and start tracing. I started by tracing the grounds. I checked to make sure continuity was there between the motors and the ground. All good. I then went around the checked the positives. All the motors were tied in but found something odd, I did not have continuity between the positive input lead and the motor, yet I had power to the NAZA.

I probed around more and checked the solder and it was good. So what was it?? Toward the center of the bottom plate, near where the power lead was soldered the plastic had lifted. I picked at it until it came of and underneath there was some copper. I probed this and found this to be the tied to the positive leads of the motor. there was a break in the copper, thus loss of continuity on the positive side. I took some 10 AWG stranded wire and bridged this. Once I did guess what....all was good!!!

So my conclusion is that I was VERY lucky. On my last flight before the firmware upgrade I must have burned the trace without knowing it. If it had happened in flight it would have dropped like a rock as all motors would have died at once. It literally had to happen right when I landed, or when I plugged the battery in after the upgrade. Either way it was like a blown fuse.

So back in the air, all was good, flying well with the repaired bottom board.

Sorry for accusing it being the firmware upgrade, it turns out that it was just the timing of the failure of the copper trace and the upgrade. All is good now

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