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HomeAircraftHelicopterMiniature Aircraft Whiplash & Fury 55 › Old Pro2k head as FBL ?
09-07-2013 07:33 PM  4 years agoPost 21
TomC

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Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia

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You might get good V-bar #'s but with the extra links you may potentially be getting a bit more slop. Also I'm not 100% sure whether or not this effects the overall fbl geometry/performance. As long as you are happy with it, that's great.

Many of us, including MrMel, have used Quick UK Raptor 60/90 grips as drop-in replacements along with mikado swash drivers. These worked very well but did require you to reduce your servo arm length in order to get good fbl resolution.

I'm actually thinking of puting back a helicommand hc3sx unit into my fb'd Ion-x since it not only can provide a bail-out function, it also allows you to put gains into the fb'd head in order to provide some of the fbl advantages you mentioned. The HC unit is the only system that allows you to do this with both fb'd and fbl heads.

Cheers,
TomC

Nqx,Mcpx-BL,300x,450x,500x,550x
Ion-x, 10s ,SS
TT X50E 10s, HC3-Sx

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09-10-2013 08:37 AM  4 years agoPost 22
marked23

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Lynnwood, WA

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TomC

Can you tell me more about reducing the servo arm length? I'm looking at my setup right now, and I have full-length servo arms installed.

My setup has about +/-15º pitch and about +/-8º cyclic.
Max pitch moves the servo arms about 70º from bottom to top. And about the same 70º for full +/- cyclic. If I -max elevator at -max pitch, then move to +max elevator and +max pitch, I'm moving the servo about 140º... which is all there's really room for.

So what you're saying is that I need to shorten the servo arms to get more resolution out of the servos? How much more? If I got 80º or 90º of servo arm throw, would that make a significant improvement in resolution?

So I should move the balls in, like... one hole? Is that a good start?

Or should I just try it this way? I'm using 8717 servos, so they are pretty good resolution already.

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09-10-2013 09:59 AM  4 years agoPost 23
TomC

rrKey Veteran

Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia

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In my case I found I needed to take the cyclic servo arm lengths down from a stock 19mm to 15mm (MrMel liked 13.5mm best btw) in order to get a good fbl response (= locked-in feeling).

Your results may vary but I suggest you try at lest taking them in a hole at a time and see if your fbl system feels more locked-in or not.

Cheers,
TomC

Nqx,Mcpx-BL,300x,450x,500x,550x
Ion-x, 10s ,SS
TT X50E 10s, HC3-Sx

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09-16-2013 04:21 AM  4 years agoPost 24
marked23

rrKey Veteran

Lynnwood, WA

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I finally got to fly it this weekend. It flies. I really like it. The basic setup was very comfortable and familiar for my experience.

It's not much different from my flybar setup... except tons of power, insane cyclic, stable traveling pirouettes, perfect tracking through loops, steady high-speed passes, and generally making me look like a better pilot than I really am.

...but other than those things, no big deal.

I bought an Align step-down so that I could use my DS8900G tail servo. Except the step down isn't much of a step. It only reduced the voltage by .3v. I'm running LiFe batteries, so I had to pull out that servo and go with a Savox 1257 (aka. Align DS620). It's all I could find locally.

(I could hear the JR tail servo complaining about the higher voltage. It says 4.8v and I don't want to run it above 5.2v. Even with the step-down, I was getting 6.3v.)

I intend on getting one of the HV tail servos from Futaba or JR. The only complaint I had about the flying characteristics was that the tail would struggle against the wind when doing a knife-edge-falling-out-of-the-sky-pirouette (a "zipper"?). The gain is as high as it can be without wagging, so a better servo is in order.

The other thing I did is that I followed TomC's and MrMel's recommendation of 13.5mm on the servo arms. Good call. I didn't try it any other way, but I still have too much pitch and cyclic.. and I'll need to dial it back in the programming.

I also removed the servo arm stiffeners. They were created when the best CCPM servo was a 9252, which has a plastic output. I had to remove the stiffeners to do the 13.5mm. But now that I know I still have too much pitch, I might be able to add them back.

At full-pitch and forward, the elevator link rod would bind against the servo. So I moved that link ball to the outside of the wheel. the rod doesn't have a straight shot now, but the link rod is rather long and that means the negative effect is minimal.

Also, I put brand-new link ends on the swash-to-blade-grip rods. I can see how some in-air violence could pop those off. I'm considering putting them on backwards to have a bit more holding power.

Anyway, loving it. Only two flights so far. Still need to tweak the governor, but it's working ok now.

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