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HomeAircraftHelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › Xcell 1005 gear mesh/upgraded bearing block
08-30-2013 07:39 AM  5 years agoPost 1
YSRRider

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usa

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Just installed the upgraded bearing block with pinion gear support. How do you properly mesh the gears? The pinion support block has slotted holes, i left all the screw loose and just let the parts settle where they want to be. I pushed the block down with a screw driver to make sure the pinion was meshed with the main gear. Doesnt feel sloppy. Nothing looks crooked. I adjusted the pinion on the shaft so that its about 1mm away from the outside rim behind the teeth. Mesh looks perfectly parallel.

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08-31-2013 12:20 AM  5 years agoPost 2
Bohnhead

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Watertown,SD. USA

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Gear mesh
Sounds like you are on the right track. I will set mine with a piece of paper for clearance. (About .003 to .004) Most of the main gears will always have a tight spot. As long as it runs free with minimal backlash you should be good. If there is a tight spot it will usually go away after a tank or two. I have this setup on both of my 1005 gassers and it works great. Happy flying

Quick Charge,Fuel, and let's go Flying!!!

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08-31-2013 01:50 AM  5 years agoPost 3
geomecc

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Long Island ,NY

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the slots are to adjust the pinion block to make it perpendicular to the main shaft there is a tool that looks like a long "t" with two holes in it. the blots that go through the bearing block that holds the rear part of the output shaft to the tourque tube. install the main shaft and main gear and adjust so that the tool or pinion shaft is parallel to the main gear. then push the pinion up towards the main shaft alil bit set the mesh tight lock down the main shaft collars then pull the pinion back so the rear of the pinion teeth is even with the teeth on the crown gear

R I P Roman Jr. Team SKOOKUM SRW EFC

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08-31-2013 02:41 AM  5 years agoPost 4
GREYEAGLE

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Flat Land's

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Here's a pic of the -T - Indicator to make sure the tail shaft is paraelle w crown gear

You can see it just above the pipe couple and is silver in color.

It is nothing more than a visual indicator to assure parallelism.

Another area to be aware of is the Lateral growth of the drive line to the tail.

You must allow a bit of slop for it . Why the drive line uses dog bones on the carbon shaft and the opposing couple has slot's in which they mate with.

Push the Tail Boom into the receiver block of the pinion on the frame, scribe a line on top of the boom and then pull the boom out aprox 1/16" to at most 3/32 " for the lateral growth.

Another trick if you suspect any crown gear wobble or axial runnout is to feel for the high spot, paint it with white type writer mask fluid then roll it thru a few times to see the contact pattern of the tooth flank or contact surface area's.

Let us know it it is a issue - No problem

greyeagle

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08-31-2013 09:00 PM  5 years agoPost 5
Bohnhead

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Watertown,SD. USA

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Gear mesh
My T-indicator is gold, but the idea is to get it parallel. I like to adjust the mesh on the gear high side(tight spot) If you run a piece of paper for clearance (.003 to .004) and keep it square you will be good to go.

Quick Charge,Fuel, and let's go Flying!!!

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09-01-2013 10:25 PM  5 years agoPost 6
GREYEAGLE

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Flat Land's

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THEIR IS A big MAYBE : if .OO3 to .004 at the High spot of axial runnout -- the " tight spot " - { Known as wobble } is used --

what is the amount of looseness or root clearance at the lowest spot ?? .

Can the tooth crest's exit their profiles ?? and what is taking place on the flank or wear contact face on the wear pattern??

With gear teeth of this size in root and profile it can be important.

greyeagle

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09-01-2013 11:44 PM  5 years agoPost 7
Bohnhead

rrApprentice

Watertown,SD. USA

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GREYEAGLE
.oo3 to .004 is the thickness of a human hair. The tail pinion has .070 mesh depth. If a gear is so bad that there is excessive play on the low side when set at the high point then I would recommend a new gear. I have flown these Xcell birds for 20 years and never seen a gear out by more than about .005 to .007
So .003 to .004 is extremely minimal. You go much tighter and you will get binding and vibration along with excessive noise. Minimal clearance is best.

Quick Charge,Fuel, and let's go Flying!!!

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09-02-2013 02:25 AM  5 years agoPost 8
GREYEAGLE

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Flat Land's

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I wont' get into a gear challenge

I'm free man and don't do the math any more,- let the others do it Kinda spread sheet any more - Except for temperature and wonky behavior and the dynamic's . .

But I will inspect or crawl inside em or walk thru em or lean on the handrail - or maybe supervise the craning up of the pinion but only for vacation purposes & entertainment purposes

Just to take some puppies on a - Tour : Too see what MAN can DO

Do know this: It is Important - Especially on resin /fiber filled composite gear's. The formulation of them is probably still a secret.

Temperature has a effect in their growth, and since they are of also a dynamic material they are also sensitive to humidity.

Now if the American Boy's would like to cut me some brass and 4140 steel mateing surface's -- they will have a very good home
No 1045 F/H

I'd like to have some wiz bang auto - rotation spraq's too { or the set Up }

I also need some P& M clutch work

Here's a Drive line bearing block mod : A good Eye will figure it out You can have it free non -gratis

Opp's need to give you what the Carbon is - It's a Nugget - Used a chunk of a old frame : to build the location jig in the new frame : to shoot the hole location

Guess I should of de- burred it and tapped it prior to the photo -

Didn't have my coffee

Here's the stinger end : Sorry I didn't show you another nugget: It was full of grease - but I can tell you about it :

Photo show's the Original against the up grade : One of M/A's Thinking habit's : Alway's moving forward on design.

If you examine their is one orphan bearing " or How do you get it their ?? " and then what do you do with it ?

The THINKERS What it is - which makes us what we are - before they copy it. Just Gota Love the M/A's

For those - That can't get the { IT } : In the moving friction industry : The Water of Life Sooner or later you'll get it

greyeagle

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09-02-2013 04:11 AM  5 years agoPost 9
turboomni

rrProfessor

East of the Equator

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Go get him Bohnhead!! Lol,,,slippery as hell he is...kinda like Congress !! My point is ,,that gear is now made from unobtainium!! I bought the last one today at my hobby shop,,,some guy from very far away bought all but one of them. I got 3 in my part box now . It was made in Germany and is out of production,,so stock up fellas or go to the Spectra split gear which should be better anyways with a driven tail in autos.

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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09-02-2013 04:29 AM  5 years agoPost 10
turboomni

rrProfessor

East of the Equator

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There was a machined gear that most likely had less problems with runout as it was not molded...out of production also.
I have never used one.

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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09-02-2013 02:39 PM  5 years agoPost 11
GREYEAGLE

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Flat Land's

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That's funney ! Why do you need ?????????
My point is ,,that gear is now made from unobtainium!! I bought the last one today at my hobby shop,,,some guy from very far away bought all but one of them. I got 3 in my part box now .
A WHOLE BOX of em ?

That's logical

How many do you go thru a season ??

greyeagle

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09-02-2013 02:48 PM  5 years agoPost 12
turboomni

rrProfessor

East of the Equator

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I have three in parts box and they last a long time! Thx!

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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09-02-2013 03:00 PM  5 years agoPost 13
GREYEAGLE

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Flat Land's

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Even Better ! The M/a guy's are pretty sharp ! The Crazy Americans

They are reversible ! So you get 2 X the LIFE !! PER GEAR

uN LESS YOU SET EM UP = all Naughty Like and treat them like a rented Mule Has some thing to do with axial and radial runnout, root clearence and flank contact pressure or knowing the wear pattern's.

So if you got 3 of them X 2 you got 6 of them

Turbo your a gear Pimp

greyeagle

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09-02-2013 03:38 PM  5 years agoPost 14
turboomni

rrProfessor

East of the Equator

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yes i know they are reversible,,,,,,

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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09-03-2013 08:35 PM  5 years agoPost 15
YSRRider

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usa

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Thought I meshed them properly, everything was perfect on the bench but the gear got eaten up again. What am I overlooking?

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09-03-2013 10:00 PM  5 years agoPost 16
GREYEAGLE

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Flat Land's

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You are going to have to type a {written descriptive picture} of what you identify is the word " Got Eaten " . Diagnosis of wear

A Couple of good Macro Photos is a place to begin.

Will give you a head start position to inspect:

"Home Plate" of adjusting ANY drive line transmission component - the bench mark or anchor - It is the Initial point : Or the Foundation

In this case it is the MOTOR: " It's alignment" or pinion gear on the clutch bell - then you begin chase the alignment of every moving component down the line -

Even the Vertical Clutch start shaft up thru the vertical bearing's is critical For the golden Orb of Ra

Next up ; > would be the radial contact face's or tooth flanks of the main gear > It's wear or behavior and adjustment.

All the way down the line >

Piece of cake really don't let it spook you - It's kinda fun -

Their was a day when it would cost a Maple Doughnut on a 30 " face gear - just on {What in the heck is that noise ??} Hold the phone too it

greyeagle

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09-03-2013 10:51 PM  5 years agoPost 17
YSRRider

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usa

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not having any issues with the clutch portion, its the tail pinion thats giving me issues. After 5 minutes you can see the crown gear just wearing away. The gears appear to be perfectly meshed but its hard to tell because the frames hide the view.

I'm really not a fan of a torque tube. Belt drive is so much smoother and less hassle.

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09-03-2013 10:52 PM  5 years agoPost 18
YSRRider

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usa

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its actually not fun. This heli is a pain in the ass to work on.

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09-04-2013 01:47 AM  5 years agoPost 19
GREYEAGLE

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Flat Land's

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You must 1st Examine Home Plate:

Already you have made the assumption the Bell Pinion tooth is parallel to the radial tooth flank of the crown gear = OK

- I fought mine till Ra gave me a dog bone and rubber kidney tip I needed for the hub. It's Talc

Note the clutch bell pinion = is wider than the radial tooth face width of the crown gear.

Reason : Vertical main shaft travel for which the radial crown gear and its hub are attached.\ Vertical End play of the main shaft UP & Down when it's loaded - " Heli - Weight "

Will allow the face of the radial gear to travel up or down on the bell pinion. ( Why all pinion's are usually wider on any equipment ) -Lateral contact tooth travel.

Adjustment of the Lateral { Up & Down } main shaft travel is done with the Main shaft collar's. ON Main Radial gear -

Must 1st be center on - with the clutch" Home Plate " bell pinion then held "DEAD NUT"S - Hard Firm Static or Pre - Loaded

ANd cannot allow to loose it's firm anchored vertical end play -
STATIC Position - The next Home Plate -

VErtical End Play in Main Shaft : & Crown gear for which it is attached.

The wear or trouble is the main gear moving

greyeagle

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09-04-2013 02:27 AM  5 years agoPost 20
YSRRider

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usa

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WHo is Ra? And what is a rubber talc kidney tip? Is that anything like a purple monkey dishwasher? English please, I be not understanding what you be spittin. Ya dig? Thanks homie!

I stuck a piece of paper in there and I used the "T" on the side of the frame. Everything was perfect. The motor never moved. It ran fine with the 501? piezo gyro. When I put the 502 HH gyro in, the gear ate up in minutes. I was told this was due to not having the upgraded bearing support. Installed now. Never moved the motor.

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