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07-14-2013 06:42 AM  5 years agoPost 1
CF1

rrApprentice

Olympia, WA

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I got the new sealed sprag in my nitro whip. I used the light weight electric motor grease from Ron Lund. I am having horrid problems with the spray not letting go of the motor when the head over speeds. Today I had it almost kill the engine. I am going to try and clean out the grease and go back to oil. What do you think is the best way to clean all the grease out? Can the sprag be removed in the new sealed system?

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07-14-2013 12:24 PM  5 years agoPost 2
fastflyer20

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N. Tonawanda, NY

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You can easily remove the brass washer by prying it out with a screwdriver.

Remove and clean the OWB and outer race (top of bell) with solvent. If it is the old plastic cage, the new style metal cage bearing is better.

Clean the pinion race with scotch brite or medium sand paper and flush with solvent.

One or two drops of ATF is all I am using for lube.

Install OWB back in cup, Clean brass washer, apply lock tite to OD and press back in. The washer should be flush with the top of the cup, don't tap it in any further.

Tom
CAUTION - my posts are based on my experiences, yours may be different.

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07-14-2013 04:57 PM  5 years agoPost 3
CF1

rrApprentice

Olympia, WA

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Which part is the pinion race? Do I need to heat the bell at all or does the brass cap just pop out easily?

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07-14-2013 06:33 PM  5 years agoPost 4
fastflyer20

rrKey Veteran

N. Tonawanda, NY

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The pinion race is the area of the pinion that contacts the owb.

No need to heat the washer, just pry it out.

Tom
CAUTION - my posts are based on my experiences, yours may be different.

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07-14-2013 11:14 PM  5 years agoPost 5
Sewer Sleuth

rrApprentice

UK

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The question of grease versus oil in one-way bearings has come up over many forums for many years.

I am a relative newbie, and have been flying helicopters for about 13 years, and all I have ever put on OWBs is a liberal dose of synthetic oil at the build stage, with maybe a refresh of more oil as and when the main gear comes out for any reason. That's it, nothing else, and certainly never any grease. And some of my current helis have been flying for many years.

I've had one OWB failure in all that time, and it was on a tired old TRex 700 a few years ago.

Get it out, clean it as best you can and lube it with some 3-in-1 oil. Job done.

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07-24-2013 05:01 AM  5 years agoPost 6
CF1

rrApprentice

Olympia, WA

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OK I got it all cleaned out and oiled. However I'm getting the same thing. This may sound crazy but how can I tell if what I'm seeing is the sprag not letting go or the motor doing something? I don't have the problem under load only at a point where the head could over speed the motor.

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07-30-2013 12:53 AM  5 years agoPost 7
geomecc

rrKey Veteran

Long Island ,NY

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check your clutch

R I P Roman Jr. Team SKOOKUM SRW EFC

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07-30-2013 05:14 AM  5 years agoPost 8
CF1

rrApprentice

Olympia, WA

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Check it for what? Liner is new with the bell. Only 4 flights on it. Clutch its self only has five gallons on it and it looks good.

When it does this you can see it in the tail and hear like the throttle hold gets hit for a milk second over and over.

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07-30-2013 05:36 AM  5 years agoPost 9
honda411

rrKey Veteran

Surprise, AZ USA

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Is your gov sensor even working or picking it up at all? If sensor fails it goes to your throttle curves. I know a guy that flies 100% throttle and no gov. He keeps it loaded the whole time of coarse. But check your gov sensor if everything else seems okay

HeliDirect Field Rep, Synergy N7 w/ OS 105, Torq Servos, Cyclone/ Rail blades

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07-30-2013 06:31 AM  5 years agoPost 10
CF1

rrApprentice

Olympia, WA

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I had thought that too. In the vbar I am getting no gov sensor errors. I have on other helis seen errors when the sensor wasn't quite right. Next trip to the field I am going to try a throttle curve and see if there is any difference.

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07-30-2013 07:19 AM  5 years agoPost 11
geomecc

rrKey Veteran

Long Island ,NY

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I suggested checking the clutch cause sometimes it could get stuck causing a similar symptom

R I P Roman Jr. Team SKOOKUM SRW EFC

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07-30-2013 07:44 AM  5 years agoPost 12
honda411

rrKey Veteran

Surprise, AZ USA

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It may say that because sensor may be okay itself. But what about the magnets?

HeliDirect Field Rep, Synergy N7 w/ OS 105, Torq Servos, Cyclone/ Rail blades

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07-30-2013 07:52 AM  5 years agoPost 13
CF1

rrApprentice

Olympia, WA

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Back plate sensor. I also have telemetry hooked up off the same sensor and don't see and rpm drops there.

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07-30-2013 01:02 PM  5 years agoPost 14
unclejane

rrElite Veteran

santa fe, NM, USA

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Might try some hovering autos. If the sprag is locking up, I would imagine the engine would hang on pretty good when you hit throttle hold. And the headspeed will bleed off quick...
The sprag will still have a fair bit of drag when new so there'll be a little bit of ding-ding-ding when you hit TH, but it ought to still drop in RPM suddenly.

And a few autos will wear that sucker in real quick I promise . It'll free up after 5 or 10 autos and stay that way for the rest of its life...

LS

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