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HomeAircraftHelicopterHelicopter Main Discussion › cluch liner material
06-16-2013 07:18 AM  5 years agoPost 1
RogerRabbit62

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Thuerigen germany

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After rebuilding my 1.8nitro helis cluch with Garloc 3000 material i have the feeling that the cluch slips again at reving up after only about 30 liters arround hovering and sport flying in the 1200-1650 rpm range.

What material is best for rebuilding cluch liners.

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06-16-2013 11:52 AM  5 years agoPost 2
MartyH

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USA

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All but the cheapest factory clutch lining is good. I like the blue stuff for the Raptor 90 best. It sure looks and feels like Garloc but it doesn't seem to slip. The factory cut stock clutch linings are so cheap, I have never found it worth the time or money trying to make something else work.

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06-16-2013 09:34 PM  5 years agoPost 3
RogerRabbit62

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Problem is that factory cluch liner is not available longer for that machine so timkering is necessary.

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06-17-2013 11:01 AM  5 years agoPost 4
Andy from Sandy

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Bedfordshire, UK

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I have found the hirobo stuff lasts pretty well.

Depending on how you spool the engine up and also the gap between the shoe and liner you could be burning away the liner as the clutch slips before fully engaging.

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06-17-2013 11:05 AM  5 years agoPost 5
RogerRabbit62

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I think i have to spool up the rpm slower and Switch the idle at a higher RPM in so that there is not such a "jump".

The 1.8m blades are heavy and have a lot of torque requirement.

I am just ordering the hirobo stuff.

How much flights does that stuff hold at you?

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06-17-2013 11:27 AM  5 years agoPost 6
Andy from Sandy

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On the models it was designed for, 50 and 90 size, the material is very long lasting. I am not sure of how many flights I got out of it, it has been quite a while now since I flew a Hirobo model.

Maybe your spool up procedure where you say there is a jump in throttle could be a cause for wear.

I have given up on different head speeds on nitro and just set it for best power and leave it alone in all flight modes allowing the governor to do its thing.

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06-17-2013 11:57 AM  5 years agoPost 7
Paul Woodcock

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Dubai - United Arab Emirates

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Hi guys

If there is no slipping, the liner will last for a very long time. I want to cry when i hear guys revving up their motors to about 1/2 throttle and about 8000 rpm, before the blades even start to spool up.

I have tried the Hirobo, Raptor, Raptor HD, Trex700, Lynx std, Lynx gasser.

The trick is the thickness is just slightly different on all of them.

On my Trex700, i had the best results with the Lynx gasser liner.

Regards
Paul

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06-17-2013 01:11 PM  5 years agoPost 8
Four Stroker

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Atlanta

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With the exception of Miniature Aircraft in their day, clutch liner material has always been standard automotive/industrial rubberized gasket material. I use black/gray stuff from Pep Boys. I am sure there is a similar store where you are. I have also tried Garlock 3000. It is very slippery and not that good for clutches although it may be an excellent gasket.

The other option is to try and find sheets of what used to be asbestos insulating material OR it's modern equivalent. McMaster ?

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06-17-2013 09:48 PM  5 years agoPost 9
RogerRabbit62

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The hirobo material seems to be garloc juged from the color.

I have garloc green and it slips.

Can you post me a link to the black rubbery material?

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06-17-2013 09:52 PM  5 years agoPost 10
antja

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Levin new zealand

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I have also been looking for clutch lining material for a scale gasser and it has been suggested to me that Kevlar might be a good materil as it it is used in a lot of automotive clutches.

Tony

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06-18-2013 02:00 AM  5 years agoPost 11
YSRRider

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usa

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I'm surprised there are no back yard mechanics chiming in with the JBWeld liner.

To those of you that never heard of it, hillbillies would goop JBWeld all around the edge, let it dry, turn it down on a lathe and that was there liner. LOL

All I could say was WOW!

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06-18-2013 02:32 AM  5 years agoPost 12
John Krebs

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Pittsburgh, PA

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Ive used the gray gasket material from the auto parts store many times and it works great. I have used JB weld to glue it in but now I just use 5 minute. I do turn it on a lathe to get it perfectly true and just the right gap.

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06-18-2013 03:18 AM  5 years agoPost 13
rcheli808

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Mililani,Hi-USA

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Hey Roger,
Just curious.....what helicopter is this, engine and blades are you using.

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06-18-2013 04:54 AM  5 years agoPost 14
fjk6807

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l'ville, ga usa

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clutch wear
I have found that no matter the clutch liner material used a proper gap and proper spool up do more for durability than anything else. Make your gap as small as possible without having clutch shoe drag at a slow idle. When spooling up the engine go slow until the blades are turning and then get the rpm up so that the shoes bite into the liner. A continued slow spool up will only allow the shoe to slip in the liner and wear it much quicker.

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06-18-2013 08:40 AM  5 years agoPost 15
RogerRabbit62

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Thuerigen germany

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@rcheli808

The problem heli is a Nova Cuatro FAI machine 1.8m , 790 mm heavy robbe fai blades, short flybar with mikado purple, OS 91 sx and a hatori 700
The problems started after refitting the electronics to 2s direct HV and a HC3SX as tailgyro.
I fitted BLS256HV and BLS 451/452. All is freaking fast compared to the old 9206 on 4.8V.
Throttle is a 451 on HV also.

I had one hot start on the old cluch and replaced after 10 gallons later with the green garloc material when it slipped.

Another 10 galloms later approx the cluch seems to slip on reving the rotor up again.

I have another cluch from a fellows Cuatro here which has been working more than 200 liters and there is virtually no wear on the black material. But he has analog servos in it.

ROBBE suggests the T-REX 700 N material but that is 1.0 mm and the original is 1.2 mm, so i have doubts.

I had to precision mill down the garlock material from 1.5mm to 1.2 mm before fitting.

I have a fellows Custro cluch here which has run more than 200 liters and if you look and measure there is no real wear on that. But he is running analog servos on 4.8 v. like i did before.

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06-18-2013 08:44 AM  5 years agoPost 16
RogerRabbit62

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@fjk6807

I do the following

I have a run up curve where i put in slowly rpm little over idling until the blades turn. Then i open the throttle slowly until a little under the idle1 rpm ( from my feeling ) and switch idle 1

No timings, no delays in switches.

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06-18-2013 01:52 PM  5 years agoPost 17
Four Stroker

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Atlanta

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As already mentioned, the gap is very important. It varies depending on design of the clutch but somewhere in the 0.010" range. If the liner material is too thin, put something behind it. Manila folder or fish paper with JB Weld will fill the gap. If you have a lathe just turn down the old worn out liner to the correct size. Any auto parts place will have the sheets of gasket material. I will look around for some high tech stuff to try. Start with 0.008" gap. If it don't grab at idle, it's not too small.

I have one aftermarket clutch that needs 0.006" and has 0.025" gap as installed with their liner ?

Clutch force goes up quadratically with speed so everything will engage at some rpm BUT it may slip AND stress crack.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#gasket-sheets/=n8v7uc

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06-18-2013 02:31 PM  5 years agoPost 18
Four Stroker

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Atlanta

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Not to beat this to death with a stick but under standard gaskets in http://www.mcmaster.com/#gasket-sheets/=n8v7uc there is blue and green stuff - aramid fiber with a Buna-N binder. Sound familiar or look familiar ?

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06-18-2013 09:24 PM  5 years agoPost 19
RogerRabbit62

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Aramid fiber is what is in the Garloc stuff.

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06-18-2013 09:25 PM  5 years agoPost 20
RogerRabbit62

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@ysrrrider

Is that JB weld hing working? Is jb weld alone building up enough friction to be a reliable cluch material?

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HomeAircraftHelicopterHelicopter Main Discussion › cluch liner material
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