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HomeScaleAircraftScale HeliScale Helicopter Main Discussion Docs  Early Vario Long Ranger
06-13-2013 04:16 PM  5 years agoPost 21
MattJen

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UK

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Am enjoying reading this thread.
I have always liked the MA machines, I still have my faithful Fury tempest and Stratus.

Interesting to see the MA mechanics taken from pod and boom and fitted into a scale fuse.. I know the old xcell ST mechanics were ideal for scale in the century fuses and others.

Good luck and keep pics coming.

Matt

All The Best

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06-13-2013 04:31 PM  5 years agoPost 22
mookie

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UK

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Hi Matt, i always seem to take the hard road, but it may well help others in the future, as for the pics, i'll probably bore you to tears. i seem to be posting every time i make a move or take a pic

Well i'll have more tomorrow, my missus dosent let me cut fibreglass at home so i have to wait till the morning before i can cut the "dog house?"

Have just ordered from Vario uk.
Set of rivets - don't fancy doing the glue ones.
Under carriage for long ranger - as these were missing.
Some window seals - because this looks like a good way of fitting the windows.

valve boy!

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06-13-2013 04:32 PM  5 years agoPost 23
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Glad it's working out for you. It's good to know what mechs will fit this size fuse. Lady luck was smiling down on you If this had been a standard jet ranger, you probably would not have fit these mechs in.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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06-13-2013 04:59 PM  5 years agoPost 24
PETER ROB

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Devon UK

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Some window seals - because this looks like a good way of fitting the windows.
mookie, when you get the rubber correct it will look well, not many people use the rubber now
TIP, when you cut the glazing to shape it needs to be exactly, 1mm short all the way around, unless they have changed the profile
Easy to check measure the thickness at the centre of the rubber, it should be 1mm, any different then that's the size you undercut your glazing
Peter R

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06-13-2013 07:12 PM  5 years agoPost 25
mookie

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UK

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thanks Peter,
I thought It might be a better way to fit the windows, but if its more difficult then I would rather know now.

Just got home.
A quick trial fit and a look down the gap on the the dog house, phew I'm working with millimeter clearances between the gyro mount and the mechanics. But I have around 4mm of fiberglass to remove from the bottom of the fuse where the old tub fitted, this will give me the room I need to epoxy a 4mm ply plank, once this is bolted to the thick carbon plate on the bottom of the mechs it should strengthen everything up, and give me a great mount for the landing skids.
To be honest I'm not to worried about weight as the YS 91 should pick this up with ease.

Can't do much more tonight. More cutting tomorrow

valve boy!

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06-13-2013 08:05 PM  5 years agoPost 26
G-Limo

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Europe

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Cutting the Front Windows oversize by 5mm and using White (canopy) Glue from your local model shop to glue them in place on the outside of the Fuz will look more authentic.

Once glued in place and held with blue masking tape where required while still wet, use 12/14 BA round-head machine screws. They look really neat.

PM me if you need a supplier of these tiny BA screws.

You could use the 's' section rubber on the sides, but the full size simply bonds the glass in place on the inside of the openings. Also the 's' section is a bugger to fit and keep fingerprints of the 'glass'

Check my gallery. The guy who had my LongRanger before me used the rubber strip stuff, but as I am now rebuilding mine, the strip will go and new windows will be screwed in. Fixing the front glass with glue/screws will also add structural rigidity to the fuz!

Rgds.

/Limo.

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06-13-2013 09:18 PM  5 years agoPost 27
mookie

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UK

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Thanks for the info limo, so the pic of your helicopter is with the rubber strip, so you saying I should bolt the windows to the outside of the fuse, (I have a great fastner supplier but Thankyou) using BA screws. I thought the windows were sandwich between the frame and a strip of metal on the outside. I think I'll take your advice and use the screw method. The strip wasn't expensive, and I'll use it on something.

valve boy!

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06-13-2013 09:36 PM  5 years agoPost 28
PETER ROB

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Devon UK

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windows were sandwich between the frame and a strip of metal on the outside.
mookie, You are correct about the sandwich, but this is very hard to achieve
Although the front glazing is held this way the side windows are rubber sealed so you could use the glazing rubber
If you use the rubber, do not cut the rubber until you have fitted the glazing, I found I was short the first couple I did
I started from centre bottom and worked around the glazing panel, until I passed the last bottom curve, measured the distance to what will be the joint, and add a couple of mm, this allows for all the stretching that takes place, and when everything settles down, you will not end up with a gap at the joint
I also found liquid soap made things easier, the surplus will wash off
It sounds difficult, but once you get the hang of it it becomes a lot easier
Peter R

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06-13-2013 10:26 PM  5 years agoPost 29
mookie

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UK

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As I have a metre of it, I think I might just do a test piece. The front windows I'll have a think about, I have a fair way to go before I start doing this anyway.
Thanks for all the tips.

valve boy!

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06-13-2013 11:41 PM  5 years agoPost 30
G-Limo

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Europe

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Thanks for the info limo, so the pic of your helicopter is with the rubber strip

Mookie - The whole build project for my LongRanger was featured in copies of the MHW Magazine some years back. The Guys who built it chose the Rubber Seal method of fixing the Front Screen to the fuz. Its a personal choice, but now I am rebuilding it after a small 'mishap' I will re-fix new screens using the glue and screw method.

The Huey above is well over 20 yrs old and I built it using this method. I prefer the rigidity it offers over the rubber seals..

There is a small rebate on the Huey screen which makes it appear to have the the sandwich you mention, but even without this rebate I think the glue/screw gives a better finish to the front glass.

/DG

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06-14-2013 12:02 AM  5 years agoPost 31
PETER ROB

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Devon UK

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Dave, Have you thought of putting the glazing on the inside and use small nuts and bolts, with adhesive this gives a very solid front end
BTW that Huey looks realistic
Peter R

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06-14-2013 12:09 AM  5 years agoPost 32
G-Limo

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Europe

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Hi Peter,

Not considered to the inside, no..

I do prefer the white screen glue as a method of fixing though!!

/DG

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06-14-2013 12:12 AM  5 years agoPost 33
mookie

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UK

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Limo - that Huey looks fantastic, that's exactly the look I would like for the Long Ranger, unfortunately there is a not much scale stuff I can do on the inside as the mechs are quite some way forward, but on the outside I would like to go to town, so any other tips and pics would be very welcome.

valve boy!

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06-14-2013 08:57 AM  5 years agoPost 34
mookie

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UK

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Just a quick update as i really should do some work
Worries are over, i drilled a hole in the dog house first thing this morning, opened it out and dropped it over the mechs after removing the head. Plenty of clearance, even without removing the material from the bottom of the fuse, so now i'm already to start cleaning up the mounting position and strengthening up the floor where it will mount.

couple of pics.

don't know why the first one has been rotated as its the right way up on my pc, but anyway gives you an idea of the clearance.

valve boy!

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06-14-2013 10:43 AM  5 years agoPost 35
G-Limo

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Europe

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Mookie,

I am curious - where in the UK are you - What club do you fly at??

/DG

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06-14-2013 11:46 AM  5 years agoPost 36
mookie

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UK

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I fly at a club in Chertsey Surrey. Its a great club, but you have to avoid the cows and the odd horse ...

valve boy!

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06-14-2013 12:44 PM  5 years agoPost 37
Copter Doctor

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Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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looks like the star ranger theory is put to rest but I had to post a pic for clarity. notice the tube molded in the lower rear of the fuselage for the tuned exhaust pipe, and also the shape of the rear cabin window and finally the jetranger based airframe

The build is looking great so far, I think those mechs will work out very well.

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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06-14-2013 01:01 PM  5 years agoPost 38
mookie

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UK

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Copter - i changed the name of the thread some time ago, as i was sure after some of you other posts that i had called it wrong....To be honest if it had been a Star Ranger the mechs would never have fitted

valve boy!

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06-14-2013 01:28 PM  5 years agoPost 39
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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That airframe looks like the perfect fit! Did the tail box end up lining up well too? I can't tell from the angle of the pic, do you have a little forward rake in the main shaft angle to match the real ranger? Here's a pic for reference.
Barry

http://www.airliners.net/photo/Bell...bbca2fa63dda910

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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06-14-2013 01:47 PM  5 years agoPost 40
mookie

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UK

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Now that is a good bit of Info Mojave, i had lent the mechs slightly backward so that the main shaft was 90 degrees to the top of the dog house. Leaning it forwards will give me even more room and will make it even easier for me to make the tail gearbox line up with the tail drive at the mech end!!
Looks like this is coming together well.
Thanks to all on RR for helping me out with this...

valve boy!

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HomeScaleAircraftScale HeliScale Helicopter Main Discussion Docs  Early Vario Long Ranger
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