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HomeAircraftHelicopterMiniature Aircraft Whiplash & Fury 55 › Fury 55 Back and Forth shake
06-10-2013 01:55 PM  5 years agoPost 1
eobie

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Mount Holly, NJ

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Hello,

Just maidened my new Fury 55 Saturday. The whole heli shakes pretty bad when spooling up and down. In the air it flies fine but there are definitely vibes. Without canopy I can see the battery shaking up and down more that 1/4 inch. I've since moved some things around and moved the battery so it sit completely on the tray, but it seems that the carbon that extends past the frames is rather flexible to begin with.

So.. I'm not sure sure if the battery vibrating is the cause of the shake, or the result of a shake. Any thoughts?

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06-10-2013 02:57 PM  5 years agoPost 2
geomecc

rrKey Veteran

Long Island ,NY

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check ur blade tracking, make sure the blades too tight in the grips, if its a flybared machine is the flybar centered are the paddles screwed on the same amount. basically go through the heli make sure everything is balanced and best as possible. is the fan on the engine dial indecated to max 0.002" runout

R I P Roman Jr. Team SKOOKUM SRW EFC

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06-10-2013 03:00 PM  5 years agoPost 3
geomecc

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Long Island ,NY

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also check the belt tension for the tail it shouldnt be too tight or too loose. are your tail blades on in the right direction

R I P Roman Jr. Team SKOOKUM SRW EFC

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06-10-2013 03:56 PM  5 years agoPost 4
eobie

rrNovice

Mount Holly, NJ

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Tail belt is pretty tight. Did it that way after people here said it needed to be banjo tight to avoid issues. How loose can I go? Pushing the belt from the side I can push it half way to the other side of the belt. Blades track perfect and are balanced. They are brand new edge 603's. I noticed a chip on the top of the blade. Put them on a balancer last night and they still balanced. New Rail 606's on the way. Originally the blades were pretty tight. I loosened them and it made no difference.

You can see then whole heli wobble even at 20 rpm. Front, back, front, back.

I have no idea how to indicate the fan. Any pointers

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06-10-2013 04:50 PM  5 years agoPost 5
Duosport

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Morral, Ohio - USA

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Hi, I have a Furion 6 a while back I had a bad vibration after a rebuild. My problem was in the rotor head. Mainly with the feathering shaft. At one time feathering shaft was retained with a C-Clip. MA did away with this and just uses 2 washers. The thicker of the 2 washers takes up the space where the C-Clip was. The thinner washer part#0331 can drop down into old C-Clip slot and you just offset rotor head .5 MM! Happened to me! So, now I always put feathering shaft in a drill and de-burr C-Clip slot with a stone before assy. I also use a little grease to stick bearing backup washer in place to prevent it from dropping into slot. Note: from MA I have seen 2 different feathering shafts. A bare silver one and a coated black one. The black shaft seems to be the worst one for this. C-Clip groove seems deeper, sharper, more pronounced. Hope this helps you as it was a month long battle for me to find! I did call and report this to "Jeff" at MA.

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06-10-2013 05:02 PM  5 years agoPost 6
eobie

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Mount Holly, NJ

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Thanks for the great suggestion. I don't remember seeing a groove in my feathering shaft. Will take it apart tonight and check for sure tonight though. So easy to check for!

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06-11-2013 12:08 AM  5 years agoPost 7
eobie

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Mount Holly, NJ

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Hey man. Just wanted to say....YOU ROCK! On one side I had the washers reversed. Not understanding though how the sanding would prevent what happened to you. I measured the thicker washer and it is .8 mm thick rather than .7mm as indicated by the manual. Not sure if this is the result of your call to MA. Still curious about the sanding thing. I have the black shaft if that matters.

Got to get this together and put it up in the air tomorrow to see if this was the (only) issue. Thanks again!

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06-12-2013 12:05 AM  5 years agoPost 8
eobie

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Mount Holly, NJ

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Well it wasn't that. Found out what it is but there does not seem to be resolution for it. Play between the main shaft and the upper shaft bearing. Side to side play, not up and down.

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06-12-2013 01:48 AM  5 years agoPost 9
Duosport

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Morral, Ohio - USA

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Hi...Call Jeff at MA. When I was first looking for "my" vibration problem. Jeff said they had undersize main shafts that got out in use. He told me to locktight main shaft to bearing to take up the slop. On my heli I did not do this as my shaft fit fine.

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06-12-2013 02:25 AM  5 years agoPost 10
eobie

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Mount Holly, NJ

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Hey Duo. I called but Jeff was gone for the day. Heard about the loctite thing so I took some green loctite on the tip of a zip tie and carefully put it around the main shaft. It has wicked down in between the shaft and the bearing. Waiting for it to cure to see results.

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06-12-2013 01:37 PM  5 years agoPost 11
Duosport

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Morral, Ohio - USA

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Just as a note: resently I bought a main shaft spare part from Ron Lund at Heliproz South. The shaft was the correct size. I am not sure if I would call locktight a lasting "fix". With the main shaft locktighted to the bearings this shure would make service a pain.

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06-12-2013 01:40 PM  5 years agoPost 12
eobie

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Mount Holly, NJ

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Yep. I thought about that. All the posts I found made it seem like it was by design so I just went with the lock tite. Have to break out the torch when time to service!

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06-12-2013 03:19 PM  5 years agoPost 13
eobie

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Mount Holly, NJ

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Just spoke to Jeff. He says the shafts are undersized and they will be corrected next run. Recommends the green loctite. I'll give it another go tonight..

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06-12-2013 03:32 PM  5 years agoPost 14
eobie

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Mount Holly, NJ

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Hard to see but it has a pretty hard shake spooling up and down..

Watch at YouTube

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06-12-2013 04:44 PM  5 years agoPost 15
BrianApp

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Grand Rapids, MI

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The main shafts are slightly smaller than the bearing because the swash is slightly too small. If the main shaft was standard size the swash wouldn't fit. I was told this is because MA won't resize the swash to 10 MM. Check it out. You will see that the swash is tight on the shaft but the bearing is loose.

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06-12-2013 05:02 PM  5 years agoPost 16
eobie

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Mount Holly, NJ

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You're right. The swash is tight...

Do you think the slop in the bearing is the cause of the shake in the video?

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06-12-2013 05:15 PM  5 years agoPost 17
adamsz06

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Geilenkirchen Germany

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How tight is it? If it will slide on the shaft with some effort, I would try to hone out the swash with some fine emery or wet dry sandpaper. Ive done this in the past by taking an old dremel rubber drum, chucking it up in the dremel and sand the rubber cylinder while its spinning until it is slightly undersize of the bore you're trying to hone. Then glue the sand paper to the drum; I use a 600 grit. Insert it into the bore and tighten the screw on the end of the drum to snug up the fit and polish a little, then test fit. Rinse and repeat in small increment.

R.I.P. Roman

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06-12-2013 05:44 PM  5 years agoPost 18
eobie

rrNovice

Mount Holly, NJ

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How tight is it? If it will slide on the shaft with some effort, I would try to hone out the swash with some fine emery or wet dry sandpaper. Ive done this in the past by taking an old dremel rubber drum, chucking it up in the dremel and sand the rubber cylinder while its spinning until it is slightly undersize of the bore you're trying to hone. Then glue the sand paper to the drum; I use a 600 grit. Insert it into the bore and tighten the screw on the end of the drum to snug up the fit and polish a little, then test fit. Rinse and repeat in small increment.
It's not TIGHT. There just is no room for a larger shaft.

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06-12-2013 05:48 PM  5 years agoPost 19
adamsz06

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Geilenkirchen Germany

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What's the I.D. of the swash now?

R.I.P. Roman

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06-12-2013 06:08 PM  5 years agoPost 20
eobie

rrNovice

Mount Holly, NJ

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Wouldnt know, and after green loctite'ing the bearing I wont know, cause it's nto coming out without a torch!

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