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04-27-2013 01:42 AM  5 years agoPost 1
mookie

rrApprentice

UK

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I was thinking of buying a whiplash for this season, but like most money is a bit tight, so decided to rebuild the stratus instead.
I bought it a couple of years ago, used. It never flew that well, and on stripping I can see why. I'll look more closely next time I buy a second hand machine.
Stripped every thing back to kit form and cleaned.
Changed all the bearings on the main running gear, bought them from a bearing supplier in uk, quality SKF ones. Bought a new clutch driver, the ball came unfixed, and it never ran true, bought a new fan because that was running out. Balanced it on a dubro.
I removed all the useless stainless steel hex screws and replaced with proper black steel ones, bought 100 of each from the local fastener stockist. Fully serviced the engine bearings new piston ring etc and polished the pipe, pretty pleased with the outcome.
Gotta say its a quality machine, really well made.
I did the flybarless mod using tempest head last year.
The only problem I can forsee is the engine, I've seen a few posts about the O.S. 91HZ-PS, but I'll give it a go.

I suppose the rebuild cost around 175 which is a damn site cheaper than a 799 for a whiplash, would love one though
Added a pic below, I'll post a few more when the tail is on.

valve boy!

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04-27-2013 02:24 AM  5 years agoPost 2
Riq

rrKey Veteran

ND

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Right on, good on you for using what you have.

My raptors wont go until Ive used up every spare part and frame I have. My r90se with a fbl head is quite sporty. I imagine your stratus is not going to be any sort of slouch.

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04-27-2013 03:31 AM  5 years agoPost 3
Peterr

rrApprentice

Queensland Australia

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one day I'll get mine as clean as that !!!

Might be a tad "old school " , but my Stratus' still fly better than lots of the new asian helis..

The Whippys are bloody good too !!!

E ,N ,G Whiplash's;Spectra G's;Stratus;E&N Razor,Fury 55;Furion6;TSA 600N, 700N, 700G;; Be

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04-27-2013 03:50 AM  5 years agoPost 4
geomecc

rrKey Veteran

Long Island ,NY

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sweet. the stratus is a great heli.

R I P Roman Jr. Team SKOOKUM SRW EFC

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04-27-2013 05:39 AM  5 years agoPost 5
carcrasher

rrElite Veteran

east coast

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I had a regular Stratus that went in when the battery went south on me and it did a chicken dance. I then bought a HR Stratus and still have it. I'm thinking about making it a regular Stratus again and FBL once i get the chance.

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04-27-2013 10:39 PM  5 years agoPost 6
Sewer Sleuth

rrApprentice

UK

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Fellow UK Stratus flyer here.

I got my airframe for £90 and fitted it out with a load of gear that used to be in a TRex 700. I also did a cheap'n'cheerful home-made fbl conversion as my first foray into flybarless technology and it's worked a treat with a Futaba CGY750 system.

Been flying it now for nearly a year without issue until last week when it's shown signs of a mechanical failure in the tail drive somewhere - haven't got around to looking at it yet.

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04-28-2013 06:57 PM  5 years agoPost 7
mookie

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UK

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£90 for an airframe is really cheap, if that's all stratus airframes are going for then I'll keep mine.
Did a little bit more today, installed the CGY750 controller, braided CCPM servos wires, clipped them, few other bits, hopefully I'll get it finished by next weekend.
The running gear is really smooth with the new bearings. I bought the tail pitch slider upgrade for the fury55 which is the same setup as the stratus (MA128-305), it snapped on its last flight, managed to auto, bit of a shock though.

valve boy!

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04-30-2013 04:25 PM  5 years agoPost 8
BisonFlyer

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Winter Garden, FL

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I had no issues with the 91HZ in my Stratus. Just make sure you dial indicate it below .001 and it will be smooth sailing. 99% of the issues people had with motors in the stratus were caused by either incorrect dial-indicating, complete lack of dial-indicating or failure to correctly line up the engine. Make sure you keep the motor mount plate bolts that go through the bottom plate loose, spin the engine with your starter to allow it to center itself, then slowly snug down the bolts. Only takes a couple of minutes and makes all the difference in the world. I never had any vibe issues in my Stratus and used 3 different OS engines during its life-span.

Good luck!

Art Hughes
SAB Heli Division~Byron Fuels~Mikado V-Team~Scorpion~Pulse~Xpert Servo~Kontronik Drives

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05-02-2013 10:32 PM  5 years agoPost 9
mookie

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UK

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Decided to strip and clean the tail as well, changed the nuts and bolts, took a tooth brush to the plastic clamp and cleaned the tail box, fitted the New pitch slider, runs extremely smoothly.
Think I virtually have a brand stratus now.

valve boy!

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05-03-2013 12:42 PM  5 years agoPost 10
mookie

rrApprentice

UK

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Took the assembled Tail Rotor to work today, there has always been a small amount of twist movement between the aluminium boom and tail rotor gearbox, had a look at the holes in the end of the boom, which were way too big. So i rotated the boom 45 degrees, and re-drilled the holes M3 Tapping size, Checked alignment, then tapped them M3, assembled
The Tail rotor and boom, carefully installed the M3 Caps, was unsure if they would pick up the threads in the T/R Transmission case, but they did, Snugged them down. The T/R Transmission and boom are solid now.

valve boy!

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05-04-2013 07:01 AM  5 years agoPost 11
slickporsche

rrVeteran

American/Philippines

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mookie
What's wrong with Stainless screws? I need them cause the standard black will rust in a short time, with all the salty air here.

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05-04-2013 08:56 AM  5 years agoPost 12
mookie

rrApprentice

UK

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Slickporsche.

The problem with stainless steel is how soft it is, I don't think that a heli under load would ever shear one, but most manufacturers state in their build manuals to use loctite. If the loctite is strong then the likely hood is the hex cap will round off on the inside when you try to undo, if you have to use them then pick a lower strength thread locker and if you feel the cap is becoming loose on the hex key when you take it off then don't put it back in, if you never crash then it dosent really matter You can buy nickel plated cap screws but I don't know what the price would be on them.

valve boy!

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05-04-2013 09:15 AM  5 years agoPost 13
mookie

rrApprentice

UK

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Got the tail boom on last night, fitted the gryphon regulator, used p clips to tidy up the wiring. Need to get some small black plastic tubes to put the aerial wires in, few other jobs to do before I fly it tomorrow. The cgy750 is setup. Off to get thin gyro tape this morning.

valve boy!

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05-04-2013 01:18 PM  5 years agoPost 14
hootowl

rrProfessor

Garnet Valley, Pa.

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A cool method of retaining wires is to use a loop of velcro. Punch a hole in it and install it with a frame screw.

Wolves don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep

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05-04-2013 01:32 PM  5 years agoPost 15
mookie

rrApprentice

UK

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Never thought of that. The Pclips are great for a 90 maybe a 55, but you certainly wouldn't want to use them on anything smaller. Typical i've bought a 100 of 3 different sizes now, so if anyone needs a couple of p clips then give me a shout. I'm going to stay with them on this one, but thanks for the info, i'll give it a go, when i start to rebuild the Fury next week.

valve boy!

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05-04-2013 03:53 PM  5 years agoPost 16
mookie

rrApprentice

UK

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Here's a better photo of the wiring, I think the clips do a pretty good job of keep it tidy.
I still need to find the correct gyro pad for the CGY, you think I could get away with a standard one for a test hop tomorrow?

If there are any 3D pilots that fancy flying it as i would love to see it fly like its meant to, then let me know.

valve boy!

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05-04-2013 08:54 PM  5 years agoPost 17
carcrasher

rrElite Veteran

east coast

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I wouldn't fly it with the sensor like that. That's just me.

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05-04-2013 09:21 PM  5 years agoPost 18
Sewer Sleuth

rrApprentice

UK

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I'll echo the above. Please fix the CGY sensor down with the proper Futaba tape - one piece is fine. You're asking for trouble with it like that, and it will cost a lot more than the price of a genuine mounting pad when it gets broke.

Tidy wiring.

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05-04-2013 09:48 PM  5 years agoPost 19
mookie

rrApprentice

UK

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The sensor is in no way going to be like that!! I just stuck it there while I find the correct gyro pad... Can't find the original one in LHS that come with the CGY.. so may have to resort to a 3M thin tape.

Sorry should have made myself clearer in previous post.

Malc

valve boy!

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05-05-2013 10:56 AM  5 years agoPost 20
carcrasher

rrElite Veteran

east coast

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I just noticed that you have the YS gear ratio and your running the OS. The OS will run better on 8.18 GR.

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